13 replies to this topic

[M700FGT]

So i brought my 1997 Cooper back in Jan 2018. I got it for a reasonable price but it needed allot of work. Nothing major, but lots of parts that should have been replaced along time ago.

 

Im by no means a mechanic and i consider myself to be open to learn, which is why i wanted a project Mini.

 

In Feb 2018 the car was on 73,633 miles and the garage replaced both front bearings. I brought them myself and they were genuine Timkin.

 

The first failed in Jan 2019 and the second failed in May 2019. 

 

When the first failed in Jan 2019 i took it to a different garage. They believed the first may have been fitted incorrectly and also noted that the castle nut was loose.

 

So when the second failed in May, a neighbour offered to help. He's an exceptionally experienced guy who built a 1968 classic from the body up, so i trust him and his judgement. We only got around to fitting it on Thursday and it was a pig of a job. This time i went for a Mini Spares branded version as i can't be bothered to spend £50 a time when their one is about £11. The bearing seemed ok when it was removed, but we replaced it any way. My neighbour inspected everything and was happy with the condition of the surrounding parts. 

 

Everything went back together fine, but while he was there, he had a quick look at the bearing fitted by the second garage in Jan 2019. The castle nut was loose. Once tighten it was fins again. 

 

The car is currently on 74,625, which means i have driven this car for 992 miles.

 

Both garages claim they fitted the bearings correctly and packed them with grease. Timkin claim their bearings never fail this quick. JBW claim the 13" deep dish will wear bearings quicker, but won't kill them after less than 100 miles.

 

I can't find a torque setting for the castle nut, so i can't even be sure if they are over or under tightened. Is it work adding some thread tight? 

 

Has anyone else had problems like this, or can give advise. Every time i seem to drive this Mini there is a problem and I'm loosing my bottle driving a car where the wheel bearings fail / castle nuts undo.

 

thanks

 

Marc 

 

 

 

 

 

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[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I haven't worked on disc brake Minis but there is a procedure involving initial tightening using a flat washer instead of the conical nut.  Maybe this wasn't carried out and is why you're having trouble?

[nicklouse]

Torque numbers are in your Haynes manual and in the torque settings post above.

I wonder if they have been using the finger tight setting found on some newer cars.

Garages saying they did it right without saying what they did unfortunately means nothing.

[nicklouse]

I haven't worked on disc brake Minis but there is a procedure involving initial tightening using a flat washer instead of the conical nut. Maybe this wasn't carried out and is why you're having trouble?

If you know how to fit bearings this washer ain’t needed.

Never used it.

[cal844]

I haven't worked on disc brake Minis but there is a procedure involving initial tightening using a flat washer instead of the conical nut. Maybe this wasn't carried out and is why you're having trouble?

If you know how to fit bearings this washer ain’t needed.

Never used it.

I've never used a flat washer.... tighten to spec as above.

[M700FGT]

I honestly couldn't find the torque settings - thanks guys.

 

Ive actually just found another thread on here talking about different torques for different years.

 

Ive ordered the correct socket as we used my neighbours this week. Once it arrives i will take the wheels off and see what they are set to

[Avtovaz]

is there a spacer between each bearing?

[Boycie]

There isn't a separate spacer between the bearings on these.

Many fit the assembly without torquing it first with the flat washer ('special' tool) and there's no problems.  I actually do use something to ensure everything is correctly seated before fitting the cone shaped washer and then tighten the castle nut to spec.  It does no harm and removes any doubt that the bearings and CV are in place and won't be artificially trapped by the cone shaped washer.  However, I've never seen this happen.

 

For the record, my special tool is an old washer from a CV joint/ hub nut off an old Opel Astra.  It's the right size and plenty strong enough.

 

Having the right sized socket is good idea.  If you find the castle nut is loose, tighten it only when the weight of the car is off it.  Unfortunately, finding a loose hub nut usually means the bearing is toast by that point...

[mini13]

I would say if the castle nut us loose then the splines in the cv and in the drive flange are shot.

[hunterg30]

more than likely not torqued up correctly, have you tried undoing one that is correct

[M700FGT]

Hi guys, as i said i don't have the socket yet, so will torque it up properly when it arrives. The other post i found said 197 ft / lb.

 

i don't think the splines are the issue, more likely the torque from the looks of it.

 

I don't quite understand the washer trick - could someone explain?

[Magneto]

You torque it to spec, then tighten to the next hole......

[Spider]

It doesn't hurt to use the flat washer, but IMO, it's pointless.

 

There's some finer detailed points here which are often overlooked;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

Very useful topic that Moke regards wheel bearings

 

One thing I picked up on with the comments in the early start of this topic

 

"The garage packed them with grease"      how much and what grease ?