33 replies to this topic

[Spider]

I have tried a few sets of non-Timken Bearings over the years, and never had more than 5000 km from any of them, most giving way between 1000 and 2000 km, though, these weren't Mini Spares non-genuine types, which I've not tried.

 

Another way to consider to tackle this problem is to take the car to a Mini Specialist, and have them supply and replace the Wheel Bearing, be vague about it and tell them that's what's been reported to you as being an issue with the front end.

 

I suggest this approach as you are not telling them how to do the job and leaving this open in case they find other issues that are causing these premature failures. The down side is of course that it will cost a bit, however, the total upside is that should they give trouble again, you have a warranty to claim on, in which case, apart from the nuisance of having to take it back, it shouldn't cost you anything.

[MiniMadRacer]

Only Issue I have had is with the split washer... make sure it sits properly on the CV joint, I usually lap it on with valve paste to make sure it sits properly.. any burrs and it will sit proud and the torque will be reached but the bearing wont be fully clamped.

[M700FGT]

So i went to tighten as planed but hit a road block......

 

My torque wrench only goes up to 210NM and this needs to go 255-270 (188-199 lbf ft)

 

So i looked online and it turns out most standard torque wrenches only go up to 210. When you look at the sizes of these wrenches that only go up to 210, its easy to see why my neighbour was making such an issue. 255-270 is bloody tight! 

 

Ive only found one wrench that goes up to 300 that's not stupidly priced and can be brought from a regular shop. Halfords £99.00 https://www.halfords...rench-model-300

 

I think this is my only option. Screwfix and tool station both want allot more. 

[Magneto]

Or, just tighten it bloody tight with a pipe on your breaker bar, then tighten it some more till you can put the cotter key in. I've found that they only go so far.....and I don't think you can over tighten them, even with a big pipe.

Edited by Magneto, 18 July 2019 - 08:15 PM.

[mk1leg]

I have always this toolhttp://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

  to pre load the bearings before using the Cwasher and torquing up to 150lbs

[M700FGT]

I have always this toolhttp://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

  to pre load the bearings before using the Cwasher and torquing up to 150lbs

 

Its out of stock :-(

 

I really want to drive this weekend, so i think the Halford option is the best so far. 

[cal844]

I torque to 200, giving 2 clicks of the torque wrench then to line up with the next hole I use a 6 foot breaker bar with a length of scaffold bar over the end to give more leverage.

A top tip is to mark the face of the drive flange, the gap(that you need to move to next hole) for the split pin and the socket(all inline with one another so you can tell how far you need to go)

I use ink correction fluid (Tippex) washing it off once everything is tight and the pin is fitted.

As a side note, we had a bad batch(or 10) of bearing... My dad's old 1994 VW Passat used to eat genuine, dealer supplied rear wheel bearings, at its worst stage we were changing the pair once a month. The car done less than 500miles/week (work and general shopping etc).

We ended up calling VW UK to request we use another supplier at their expense. The two alternatives cane from a local independent supplier and lasted 2 years, it turns out the VW tooling was a few thou out of spec but no one noticed until we told them after 2 years.

So just because you buy 'genuine' parts doesn't mean you won't have issues... I never buy the cheapest option of any parts.

Sorry for the rambling, I hope you fix the issue. Keep us updated.

Edited by cal844, 18 July 2019 - 09:02 PM.

[Spider]

Check in some of the Hire Shops, you might be able to hire one for a few hours at a sensible price, given that you may never need it again.

 

At that size, most will be 3/4" Drive.

[Pigeonto]

I have at least 10 of the nuts kept back from previous jobs. And of the split cone washer too.

If you want to be precise about this, maybe you could obtain some from mini mates.

Like that, you can try them until you find one that does indeed reach the position you want and hits the correct torque at the same time. Something that's entirely impossible for the manufacturers of all the different components which make for the set up to be able to control.

It's quick and easy and dare I say  involves somewhat more mechanical sympathy than just graunching it up to the next slot.

Sounds like that would satisfy the criteria of your friend and yourself 

Edited by Pigeonto, 19 July 2019 - 07:55 AM.

[GraemeC]

The Halfords torque wrenches are very good, especially for their price.

 

Once torqued, if you need to tighten further to get to the next split pin slot then DO NOT use the torque wrench - you will potentially damage it.  Instead use an 18" breaker bar (with a piece of scaffold pole if needed).

 

You are unlikely to be able to tighten to the specified torque on your own unless you make some sort of tool to hold the drive flange.  The best way is to put the wheel back on, put the car on the ground and have someone sit in the car with their foot firmly on the brake.  Then work through the wheel centre hole until the nut is where it needs to be, remove the wheel and fit the split pin.

[Dusky]

Or just use a torque wrench extension, physics baby!

https://www.workshop...surable-torque/

[M700FGT]

So its its all done, and for the record the Halfords Advanced 300 Torque wrench is excellent quality!!

 

The passengers side was the easiest. Torqued up perfectly and finished just where I wanted it for the split pin.

 

The drivers side was a little harder. Torqued up right between the gaps. Had to torque a bit higher to get to the next gap but the disc kept slipping, even on full brake. I managed to find a way to deal with that and it all went back together fine.

 

I haven't tested to it yet, but plan to give it a run tomorrow.

[carbon]

Sounds like progress. Must have been pretty tight if the disc brake was slipping - was this with all 4 wheels on the ground?.

 

Also after finally tightening up the driveshaft nut did you check the wheel was turning freely? Admittedly this is not so easy on the front wheels as there is the drag from the diff.

[phillrulz]

Sounds like progress. Must have been pretty tight if the disc brake was slipping - was this with all 4 wheels on the ground?.

 

Also after finally tightening up the driveshaft nut did you check the wheel was turning freely? Admittedly this is not so easy on the front wheels as there is the drag from the diff.

 

When lossening mine i ended up lifting the car and turning the wheel with a friend with his foot  and the brake..... also bent the 1/2" bar holding the socket. 

Couldnt get it off, took it to a local friendly tyre shop, they broke the pin on a 36" bar, took it to a garage they said they got it off ( didnt) took it to kwikfit of all places their battery gun couldnt get it off, theyre pnuematic couldnt get it off, ended up being  a 36" bar with a 5' piece of tube and the manager bouncing on it. Was unbelivable.... had to replace nuts since we even tried hammering the castlation around. 

[mini13]

when they are that tight the easiest thing is to split the nut with a chisel.