25 replies to this topic

[Grbbongo]

Hi all. Hopefully attempting to fit lightened flywheel and new drop gears to already installed engine. Could you please tell me how I lock/Jam the gears to allow me to remove the input gear at the bottom?
Thanks in advance.

[nicklouse]

So engine is in the car and you have already pulled the flywheel and taken the transfer case off?

[Grbbongo]

Yes engine is in car. I’ve not yet started to dismantle. Just researching before I do. I read elsewhere that you need to lock the gears to undo the input shaft bolt?

[nicklouse]

Oh so you have done nothing yet.

Pull the engine and split it off the box. You will need to measure the thrust shim clearance on the idler as well. And that is impossible with the block on the box.

Again Haynes workshop manual.

All covered in there. And yes.

[Grbbongo]

So..How do I lock the gears? Is it n the manual? Also I won’t need to set clearances on idler as fitting the MED roller bearing type.

[Steve220]

You need to lock the gearbox into 1st and 4th gears, to do this rotate the selector rod anti clockwise so that it disengages from the bell crank levers, you will now be able to engage 1st and 4th gears. Hope that helps ??

[Grbbongo]

You need to lock the gearbox into 1st and 4th gears, to do this rotate the selector rod anti clockwise so that it disengages from the bell crank levers, you will now be able to engage 1st and 4th gears. Hope that helps

Ok thanks. Am I right in assuming this can only be done with the box split from the block?

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

You need to lock the gearbox into 1st and 4th gears, to do this rotate the selector rod anti clockwise so that it disengages from the bell crank levers, you will now be able to engage 1st and 4th gears. Hope that helps

Ok thanks. Am I right in assuming this can only be done with the box split from the block?

 

Yes, the block and gearbox need to be split in able to engage 1st and fourth gears in the manner described.

 

As mentioned the Haynes Workshop Manual describes this in step by step detail as well as the correct way to remove the flywheel, and how to set the idler gear clearance, and torque wrench settings.

[imack]

Can be done insitu, someone posted it on here recently but I can't find the post. Here's the video they linked to.

https://youtu.be/UuV8z91B_kg

[Grbbongo]

Can be done insitu, someone posted it on here recently but I can't find the post. Here's the video they linked to.

https://youtu.be/UuV8z91B_kg

Yes I’ve just been in contact with him. Very helpful, and has given me instructions to make the tool using an old clutch plate etc. Thanks all.

[Ethel]

The nut can be a lot harder to undo. I think I'd still prefer to pull the engine and split the box from it. There's a better guarantee of success and you get the opportunity to inspect and service everything.

[Rorf]

Oh boy; have fun.

[need4speed]

Any advice or tricks on how to lock an A+ box/drop gears in order to toque up the input nut? The gearbox was supplied built and is now back under the engine so the option of engaging two gears is not viable.

[imack]

Watch "Fitting drop gears with engine in car classic mini, how to torque up input gear nut" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/UuV8z91B_kg

[need4speed]

Watch "Fitting drop gears with engine in car classic mini, how to torque up input gear nut" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/UuV8z91B_kg

 

I've looked at that but as the engine and box are on the bench it's going to be easier to take it all apart, lock the box up etc. I was just looking for a way of not having to take out a professional installed diff. etc. I'm concerned about keeping it all oil tight. Still, I've got plenty of Hylomar, so, that's tomorrow's schedule fixed!