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Fitting A New Lh To Rh Front Brake Pipe


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#1 leeesslemont

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Posted 07 August 2019 - 01:27 PM

Hi

 

I have to replace the LH to RH front brake pipe. on my 98 MPI  Access on the drivers side is pretty much non existent...........

 

Do any of you experts have any tips or advise you could share with me? 

 

Is it worth cutting a 'hatch'in the inner driverside wing? 

 

Thanks In advance 

 

Lee 

 

 

 



#2 DeadSquare

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Posted 07 August 2019 - 02:57 PM

You are talking about the metal pipe that runs from under the clutch housing, along the front of the subframe and disappears under the rad ?      Not simple.

 

The first time I did one, I asked both the local BMC workshops, and they both said "engine out".

 

Needless to say, I "cut a hatch", and then had to make it bigger, but I got it undone.

 

To replace the new pipe, I cut a slot in a box spanner, put it over the union along the pipe and held it from opening up with a jubilee clip, which got my spanner to somewhere under the starter pinion.

 

The ******* union cross threaded as I screwed it in and I had to take the engine out, but otherwise, I recon that the box spanner idea would have worked.

 

In 40 years, I have only done about 4 since, but as I have the where-with-all to extract the engine, I don't think twice about what I'll do.



#3 YankWithAMini

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Posted 26 August 2023 - 03:08 AM

I just did this and thought I would share. This is on an '88 with a 998, no servo.

 

I managed to get the old out and new in without removing the engine, but I had things taken apart already. The radiator and clutch cylinder (w/ mounting plate) were already removed. I removed the distributor cap and the air intake duct on the clutch side, and that gave me enough room to carefully work the old pipe up and out and the new pipe in. I disconnected the pipe at the union that sits between the PDWA and the splitter, rather than fight with the crusty fittings on the splitter arm-deep in the engine bay. When re-fitting, I fully tightened the fitting going into the front of the splitter (very difficult to get to in-situ, as it is under the clutch housing) prior to putting the pipe in the car. The rear fitting from the splitter for the short pipe that went towards the PDWA was only tight enough to keep it in place until I got everything lined up, then it was finish tightened.

 

As they say, your mileage may vary. I had already taken some stuff out for easier access to do the top arms, so it wasn't any extra time to remove it all.

 

It hasn't been tested yet, so I might find out later that I f-ed it up! I will update if that happens.



#4 whistler

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Posted 26 August 2023 - 09:12 AM

If you're changing that pipe then change the 2 flexi pipes and the unions through the subframe.






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