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Old Cooper S Air Box Fitment.


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#16 Retroman

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 10:03 AM

Given how hard it is to come by the Air Filter Boxes, I wouldn't be rushing ion to modifying the one you have.

 

Also, on a recent thread on another forum, a fellow had his new engine run up on an engine dyno (bone standard Cooper S Engine) and they found these Air Filter Boxes lost 9 HP at the flywheel.

 

Respectfully, it must be a highly tuned engine that's proposed to need twin HS4's. Twin HS2's are good up to about 110 HP. 

 

Maybe you have HP and CFM mixed up...?

 

Twin HS2 are asthmatic 1950's tech

 

No disrespect but running standard Twin HS2 on anything is giving horses away

 

Other than a standard Cooper or S I won't entertain them



#17 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 10:07 AM

Having just had an update, that's pretty much what I've just been told. Keeping the airbox is also a no go with either HS4s or anything else when going for bigger CC/flow.

So it's either twin HS4 or a bigger single. The SU book I'm reading seems to say there's not much to choose between them when all set up corrctly.

#18 Retroman

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 11:56 AM

You need to tell us what your engine is we can then advise accordingly

 

A single HS4 or HIF 38 especially if visarded are a better bet than the HS2's



#19 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 12:02 PM

It's currently a plain 1275 that ran low on oil so it's all apart. I've just been told that it's going to be taken to 1380cc and all parts modified to suit.

I've also been told to get shot of the twin HS2s and Cooper S airbox as they won't be needed now (dammit!)

I really am in the hands of those that are sorting it for me, I don't have any more details at present, I'm just the bank funding it :)

#20 nicklouse

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 12:09 PM

It's currently a plain 1275 that ran low on oil so it's all apart. I've just been told that it's going to be taken to 1380cc and all parts modified to suit.

I've also been told to get shot of the twin HS2s and Cooper S airbox as they won't be needed now (dammit!)

I really am in the hands of those that are sorting it for me, I don't have any more details at present, I'm just the bank funding it :)

then a single HIF44 will suit.

 

but I would ask them why 1380 as they should be able to go to any of the other sizes first or are they just buying a built 1380 from somewhere like Minispares.



#21 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 12:25 PM

This is being built for me from my engine. I think it's just what he/they think is best for me needs.
They've got decades of experience and I trust their judgement.

That's perhaps a bit blind of me but I don't have the time or knowledge to get involved with the research.

#22 Rorf

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:13 PM

From a plain 1275 to a 1380 that is quite some jump (never mind the financial implications) and not really necessary for a road car. But of course the twin carbies will look really cool.

 

A well built 20 thou oversize 1275 with a HS4 and 3.44 diff is good enough for a spirited road driven mini - of course not cool to boast about at the local pub.

 

Just saying.....



#23 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:17 PM

I get that, I really do :)
I just want a reliable and strong engine to use along with my old Land Rover (glutton for punishment)

H'es done so many that this is what he's saying will do the job best. It's a bit of advice and engineering frrom one place and the engine building from a friend in the business so costs aren't as bad as they could be. Certainly not the thousands the main retailers ask for.

#24 nicklouse

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:18 PM

1293 has more metal between the bores so less head gasket issues.



#25 Rorf

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:23 PM

There is no such thing as a cheap quality built engine, unless you have generous engine builders. Surprisingly most of the costs go into the labour to assemble it properly.

 

Highly tuned 1380s are fairly stressed engines and so will require more maintenance to ensure reliability.



#26 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:30 PM

I have a very Generous engine builder, lucky me :)

AIrbox and bits now for sale - http://www.theminifo...twin-hs2-carbs/

#27 Retroman

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:32 PM

A 1380 should be the last resort, as once its worn out thats it, time for a fresh block

 

You are the one paying so it should be your choice

 

Loads of choice 1293, 1310 1330 1350 1360

 

Boring to 1330 or less would be better all round for your needs and better value



#28 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 01:53 PM

I shall certainly mention this and ask why the ultimate jump is being suggested rather than something between there and where it is now.

Ha, just read your sig...Says it all really :)

#29 Spider

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 06:34 PM

I've had some very good results from just going to 1293 (+0.020) and as the other guys have said, there's plenty of life left in it after that. As it's a road car you don't need every last HP or ft/lb from it.

 

Going to +0.093-ish you can usually sleeve it back but that's not always guaranteed.

 

I wouldn't be jumping in at the deep end straight off.

 

 

 

 Twin HS2's are good up to about 110 HP. 

 

 

No disrespect but running standard Twin HS2 on anything is giving horses away

 

Other than a standard Cooper or S I won't entertain them

 

 

Fair enough if that's been your experience mate, but I can say I've had very good results from them.



#30 Parptoot

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 06:39 PM

This is part of the problem with a car that's been around for SO long. There are SO many people that know stuff and that knowledge is from years of trial and error.

I can only put my trust in these old blokes and belive that they've got my best interests in mind.

I really appreciate all this information though and I will be asking a few more questions.




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