11 replies to this topic

[Hughieboy]

To anyone who can help please. My Mini (modified and rebored 1275) cut out a few weeks ago and I haven't been able to start it since. I thought it was a fuel problem but have fitted a new mechanical pump which is definitely delivering good flow of fuel to the carb - no joy! Carb was leaking slightly from the bottom plate so fitted the spare carb (good cond') I had - no joy! Also checked for a spark - none! New leads, spark plugs and coil - no joy! Thought it might be the Aldon Race distributor being faulty, fitted a standard one - no joy. Checked fuses, including 'in-line' ones but they appear to be ok. Really frustrated and no closer to solving an every more expensive problem - - any help and advice would be extremely appreciated. Thanks.

[Curley]

I assume the engine turns over on the starter.

 

I would take all the spark plugs out, place one on a lead and position the plug near something metallic (i user a head stud) and crank it over, you should see a spark at the plug.

 

Have you checked the coil is getting power? Check the coil and condenser, you say you've swaped the dizzy any chance you could have disturbed the timing? Do you have access to a timing light?

[Hughieboy]

Hi Curly, thanks for your reply. Not sure if I have disturbed the timing - as I'm not too knowledgeable on engines please forgive my ignorance, but would this prevent a spark? Unfortunately I haven't got access to a timing light. Also, when I am trying to see if there is a spark do I have to put the plug by something metallic or is it ok to lay on the bodywork? Thanks again. Hughie. 

[KTS]

the bottom part of of the spark plug (threaded section etc) needs to be in contact with a metallic part of the car/engine - as curley suggests, wedge it against one of the head studs and get an assistant to turn the ignition key and check if you're getting a spark.

[Hughieboy]

Thanks KTS - will give it a try. Hughie

[Hughieboy]

Have checked for a spark as suggested above but still no joy. There appears to be power getting to the coil, engine turns over fine. I've totally exhausted what little I have and getting desperate. Any more suggestions please?

[KTS]

do you have an electrical multimeter to test what voltage the coil is getting when the engine is cranking over ?

 

have you tried re-testing for a spark, but with the spark plug (lead) connected direct to the ignition coil rather than from the distributor cap 

[Hughieboy]

Have done all the checks as suggested above and have come to the conclusion that the electronic ignition in the Aldon distributor as there is spark from the coil but not to the plugs. What do you think?

[hunterg30]

If there's a spark on the ht lead that comes out of the coil , check dizzy cap , make sure the carbon bush is still in the middle , check rotor arm

[Hughieboy]

Thanks HunterG - The cap appears to be good, including the carbon bush, and the rotor arm is good. Hughie.

[KTS]

if the coil is producing a spark it would suggest the ignition module is operating OK, so the problem would appear to be on the HT side of things between the ignition coil and the plugs

 

as hunterG says - check the lead from coil to distributor cap, the cap itself, the carbon brush, rotor arm and plug leads.

[andyapanel]

I had a faulty coil that produced visible sparks on a plug out of the engine, but did not have enough oomph to ignite the fuel/air mix.

It is a good thing to check, but be warned, it may mislead. You really need to check resistances inside it to be sure it is ok or not.

 

If it cut out without warning, I think I would be looking at the power supply or maybe the rotor arm.

 

if it was an intermittent fault that then decided to become a major fault, then I would suspect coil and the HT components.

 

My Aldon Electronic ignition died at exactly 100000 miles, but I had misfires for about a quarter mile before.

 

Follow Haynes and the advice above and you will find the problem.

Good luck