13 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

I am reconditioning a Metro 1275 A+ (Circa 1988/89) to replace the 998 A+ in my 1982 Austin HLE 1000.

 

I have been looking at Clutch Kits and Lightened Flywheels, as well as considering getting the original Flywheel lightened.

 

Whilst researching the options I found this Verto Clutch Assembly by Minispares which comes with a lightened Flywheel (9.3lb) and an AP Pressure and Clutch plate and release bearing all for £214. The clutch plate is stated as being 180mm.

 

However when looking at a replacement starter motor I found only this one on MiniSpares web site and then saw that it is a 9 tooth and not to use a 10 tooth starter such as those fitted to Metros. I have just checked the starter motor in the garage and the Metro one I have has 10 teeth.

 

 

When drilling down into the detail or the clutch kit with lightened flywheel, the flywheel is for a Pre Engaged starter - which mine is not I guess?

 

When looking for alternatives, whilst there are lightened flywheels for Inertia starters they are listed as pre verto, and I believe that my Metro engine is a verto (short arm) clutch.

 

So the questions are:

 

1. Are there any lightened flywheels and or clutch kits with flywheels available for my setup (if I keep the Inertia starter.

 

2. If I stick with the Inertia Starter can I use the existing Solenoid fitted to my Mini, or should I retrieve one from the Metro that the Engine came from before it gets scrapped?

 

Or any other options.

 

Thanks 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 11 August 2019 - 05:42 PM.

[nicklouse]

i Can answer all the above with one word.

Yes.

So, down to details, list what you want to keep and we can tell you what you need to do that.

[DeadSquare]

First,..............Save everything off the Metro before it gets scrapped.

 

 

 

Use either solenoid, which ever is in better condition.

 

May I suggest that you consult Mr. Dodd about lightening your flywheel.

[JonnyAlpha]

i Can answer all the above with one word.

Yes.

So, down to details, list what you want to keep and we can tell you what you need to do that.

 

Well I am on a tight budget (they all say that), basically I have been breaking three Metros, I have salvaged a 1275 from one of them and trying to make as much money as possible from the remainder towards reconditioning the engine and transplanting it into my HLE 1000.

 

I am not into buying new just for the sake of it so, option one is to use the old starter (I will clean it up and check that it works) and the old flywheel (suitably lightened of course).

 

If the starter fails it's a simple enough job to fit a new one but only if a 10 tooth starter is available? Minisport do them for £56. However looking at this thread AC recommends the 9 tooth for maximum turning force? Otherwise the Flywheel would need to be changed?

 

 

First,..............Save everything off the Metro before it gets scrapped.

 

 

 

Use either solenoid, which ever is in better condition.

 

May I suggest that you consult Mr. Dodd about lightening your flywheel.

 

Trying to save as much as possible, however the previous owner has let me keep them on his land for over a year but has now said that his son has offered to take them to scrappy for free and has given me until the end of the month to get as much off as possible. I am away for two weeks now so it only gives me days. I would like to be able to move them myself to the scrappy but have no way of shifting them. If he takes them nothing in it for me, however with then engines removed he'll only get about £30 a car? 

 

Have already approached AC to lighten and balance the flywheel, but may work out more cost effective to buy new?

 

If money wasn't an option, for future proofing, should I switch to a 9 tooth starter and do I go inertia or Pre Engaged Starter with integrated solenoid?

[JonnyAlpha]

Just catching up on this thread.

 

I am buying the Med Engineering ST1 Lightened Flywheel Kit which comes with a Lightened Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Clutch and Centre Boss.

According to an email from MED these have 129 teeth for the Pre Engaged Setup?

 

As seen from this thread the starter has 10 teeth which will wear out the ring gear, so I need to get a 9 tooth starter, but will an Inertia work of do I definitely need a Pre Engaged one?

 

Thanks 

[Twincam]

Just for information sake, you are also able to change the bendix on the starter so you can change it from a 10 to a 9 and vice versa. There are bendix removal tools on eBay and you can buy a replacement bendix too for example from here : https://www.morrismi...67h5010-p829699

[nicklouse]

As the inertia and pre engage starters engage with the ring gear from different sides you may find that the teeth have relived edges on the side it enters. Sounds like you will be needing a pre engage starter.

[JonnyAlpha]

So for this Flywheel setup I need this Starter Motor?

[nicklouse]

So for this Flywheel setup I need this Starter Motor?

Correct.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

So for this Flywheel setup I need this Starter Motor?

Correct.

 

 

Thanks - I'll put it on my Christmas list

[JonnyAlpha]

Oh I have just had a thought. The Pre-Engaged comes with the solenoid mounted on it. I have run a new cable from the battery to the Solenoid on the Bulkhead. How do I go about powering this starter? Is there a Mod? Or will I need to run a completely new battery cable :-(

[nicklouse]

Look in the electrical section it is a common conversion and means you can leave the writing as you have it.

[JonnyAlpha]

Look in the electrical section it is a common conversion and means you can leave the writing as you have it.

 

Where's the electrical section?

[nicklouse]

 

Look in the electrical section it is a common conversion and means you can leave the writing as you have it.

 

Where's the electrical section?

 

ok not in there but these should do you

http://www.theminifo...-motorsolenoid/

 

http://www.theminifo...to-pre-engaged/