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Main Bearing Oil Way

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#16 DeadSquare

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 06:20 AM

Just to go the other way, I wouldn't do a build without pulling the seat. If you look carefully at the cut away photo that Retro kindly posted up, you can see there's a lot of 'dead' area around the seat and often, there's all kinds of crud and half the dead sea residing in there.

 

You can leave it and run the gauntlet but if you do pull it out, then you can see and you'll know for sure.

 

 

I wish to object !

 

All this use of the word "Dead", is not mere inadvertant innuendo;  it is prejudicial against elderly users of this site, who don't need reminding that they probably won't live long enough to complete all the things that they would like to do to their Minis.

 

Lol.



#17 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 07:14 AM

I was under the impression that the oil pressure relief valve was before the oil filter and so any debris, swarf that might be hidden there would be prevented from going in to bearing journals.

 

The relief valve is before the oil filter so the filter will prevent the swarf from reaching the bearings, until the bypass valve in the filter head opens.



#18 Spider

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 07:22 AM

I was under the impression that the oil pressure relief valve was before the oil filter and so any debris, swarf that might be hidden there would be prevented from going in to bearing journals.

 

The major side effect though could be the oil pressure relief valve shuttle cup being prevented from closing properly due to the swarf, but judging by the score marks usually seen on this shuttle, the swarf probably is forced through and back into the gearbox anyway.

 

Yes and no.

 

Through the centre of it, which is easy to clean, is pre-filtered oil, but around the outside of it, where the cavity is that I was referring to is Filtered Oil, feeding down to No. 3 Main Bearing.

 

 

I wish to object !

 

All this use of the word "Dead", is not mere inadvertant innuendo;  it is prejudicial against elderly users of this site, who don't need reminding that they probably won't live long enough to complete all the things that they would like to do to their Minis.

 

Lol.

 

 

Yeap, OK, object all you like, take it up with a Moderator. I'm sure some of them are old and might even care :D



#19 DeadSquare

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 07:51 AM

Main reason not to remove the seat is I don't have a suitable tap!

I've washed the block 3 times & had WD40 down there & blasted with the air line. Nothing came out, however I take the point there maybe swarf trapped behind the seat.

I bought a new valve as the old one was scored.

I've ordered some cleaning brushes, so will see if anything comes out with those. 

 

When/if you remove the existing valve seat, make a note of which way it goes in.  As you can see in the photo of the cut away, both ends look as though the shuttle could seat against it.



#20 super6al

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 10:56 AM

Hi All

I think I'll purchase a tap/die set (more tools can only be a good thing, right)  & remove it - will a new one is drift in with a socket or similar ?

Having stripped it this far I don't feel like taking a gamble.

This engine & gearbox had never been apart, I stripped it down because of noisy transmission & found one of the diff bearings was suspect. I did find alloy swarf in one of the gearbox blind holes presumably from manufacture & the oil pump was full of the same stuff. To back up the previous posts none of this found its way into any of the engine bearings & none has come out of the oil galleries as far as I can see.

The bores, bearings & journal surfaces are fine & within spec, apart from wear on the cam, so I'm just replacing cam,timing chain etc, oil pump, shells & rings for this build (gearbox already rebuilt).



#21 Spider

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 11:09 AM

You can usually refit the seat you've taken out.

 

Just screw the stud back in and tap it in.



#22 scoop-deluxe

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Posted 01 September 2019 - 12:20 PM

Remove the seat.
A mate just learned the hard way. The engine had been line bored and swarf went down the gallery surrounding the relief seat. Rifle brushes were used along with cleaning products and compressed air, none of which got that swarf out. The result was a #4 bigend melting.
Take it out and clean everything!!!

#23 super6al

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Posted 01 September 2019 - 01:42 PM

Hi

Thanks for that - yes i'm waiting of a tap die set arriving & intend to remove the seat.



#24 super6al

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Posted 05 September 2019 - 07:19 PM

Attached File  oilseat.jpg   27.69K   3 downloadsFinally got round to removing oil pressure valve seat - came out quite easy once tapped, using a head stud & spacer to wind it out. No swarf found but there was some crud in there that wasn't shifted by repeated washing & brushing. All in all probably worth the wait & effort to take out. Beside I now have a new shiny set of taps & dies (also bought metric set!)

I'm now going to remove the rivet thing that is supposed to seal the oil way below it, but doesn't seem to have. Whats the best way to seal this up - new rivet or can it be tapped & plugged?   

 



#25 Spider

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Posted 05 September 2019 - 07:37 PM

If nothing else, you now know it's clean.

 

I'm now going to remove the rivet thing that is supposed to seal the oil way below it, but doesn't seem to have. Whats the best way to seal this up - new rivet or can it be tapped & plugged? 

 

I fit 5/16" UNF Cup Point Grub Screws here. There's 2 plugs. If you look in the Sump Rail directly under that one, there's another. Should be a Brass Plug and the same size. I also use Loctite 242 to seal them.

 

A small word of caution here. That one on the front, don't let it go in too deep, probably about 10 mm and no more. If it goes in too deep, it Blocks off the Air Vent for the Oil Pressure Relief Valve and so effectively Air Locks it so it won't open, they the Oil Pressure will go sky high.

 

You can easily check for this on assembly. If you remove the other plug I've mentioned, when fitting up, fit the one in the front of the block first, and with a torch, you can look down that drilling to see that the plug isn't blocking off this vent.







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