13 replies to this topic

[Coolingthunder]

So my distributor kicked the bucket and I am looking for a replacement.

Now, I have an A plus engine, the car is from 1988, I suspect it still is the original engine.

An electronic distributor was already installed, but now I am wondering what the difference is between the 59 and the 65. Both seem like they would fit, so what is the difference? The engine is a 998, the 65D seems to be for the 1275?

No markings on the existing one sadly.

It looks to be a 65D with the little black module on the side and no clips to hold on the cap. However it seems the 59D would be correct for a 998? I have already found so many incorrect kludges made by the previous owner I do not trust anything I come across...

[nicklouse]

so what is wrong with your old one? change the module if that is wrong.

 

the differences. well not all 59 and 65s are the same each one has more numbers on which describe the build and then there is the vac advance they have the range they work stamped on it as well.

 

so what ever you get you want the same internal spec or one that has been modded to suit current fuel .

 

your best dizzy is the one in the car get it overhauled and fixed.

[carbon]

Lucas 59D uses points

 

As Nick says, you need to get the distributor with correct advance curve for your engine.

[cal844]

A 65D will run ok on your 998, you will need to get one with vacuum advance and also get the curve as close as possible to the 59D

[Coolingthunder]

Well, there isn't much to fix on the current dizzy, as inside there is just the rotating arm and the little module on the outside... There is absolutely 0 stamping on it that gives a clue as to what it is, no stickers, nothing... This is why I want it out and replaced with something a bit sturdier, I get the impression this may be a cheapy cheapy knock-off... Like I said, I have found many cheap (and wrong!) Fixes on this car already so nothing would surprise me anymore. The current dizzy leads to a no-start no-spark, an old points that is in right now from a friend at least makes it start again. I had massive power loss and a severe misfire about 2 days ago, all cilinders checked normal compression, carb rebuilt, changed the plugs, changed HT leads, no dice, until we swapped out the dizzy...

[nicklouse]

Well, there isn't much to fix on the current dizzy, as inside there is just the rotating arm and the little module on the outside... There is absolutely 0 stamping on it that gives a clue as to what it is, no stickers, nothing... This is why I want it out and replaced with something a bit sturdier, I get the impression this may be a cheapy cheapy knock-off... Like I said, I have found many cheap (and wrong!) Fixes on this car already so nothing would surprise me anymore. The current dizzy leads to a no-start no-spark, an old points that is in right now from a friend at least makes it start again. I had massive power loss and a severe misfire about 2 days ago, all cilinders checked normal compression, carb rebuilt, changed the plugs, changed HT leads, no dice, until we swapped out the dizzy...

sorry there will be loads of ID marks on it (unless it is one of the poor reproductions) yes a dizzy is simple. so if it is giving issues it is most likely to be the module. change that.

 

replacing it with another can make the situation worse as there are some very poor dissys out there at are totally unsuitable.

[Coolingthunder]

Again, absolutely not a single ID marking. 2 people have poured over every inch, found nothing. That is why I suspect it is a crappy remake and want it gone. Not gonna spend 50% the cost of a new one on a module for a cheap remake. It can't get any worse than it was, as I don't think you can get worse than a no start


I am however certain that it is a 65D. My question is, is this correct for a 998 a+? Most sources seem to indicate not but I want to be sure.

Edited by Coolingthunder, 26 August 2019 - 12:45 AM.

[Ethel]

The 65 was designed from scratch to be electronic and has the amplifier module screwed to the side. The 59 is based on the points version. Neither were produced for small bore A's, but you could build a 59 up with bob weights etc from a 998 points dizzy - or just add an aftermarket conversion to the original points dizzy.

[cal844]

I use a 65D on two A+ 998 engines, both ran very well indeed, with one being faster to 70 than my 1275 with modified head. Timing of both were set by ear and eye....

[Dusky]

Contrary to some people's (incorrect) beliefs on this forum "a" 65d doesnt exist. As others have pointed out already, there are loads of models with different advance curves. You could try to find on the advance curve of the dizzy that you own. And then verify if it fits the engine, or if it's a bodge by bubba.

[cal844]

Regardless of the advance curve on the dizzy you buy you can get it changed to suit whatever spec engine you have, I didn't bother and I certainly don't regret taking a chance

[Spider]

The new replacement Distributors that those that Mini Spares sell I've found good quality and they also have correct curves.

 

For the money, you'd be hard pressed walking past one of these.

[Ethel]

I use a 65D on two A+ 998 engines, both ran very well indeed, with one being faster to 70 than my 1275 with modified head. Timing of both were set by ear and eye....

I don't doubt this, particularly if you've done some tuning. Dizzies have to compensate for a variety of factors but compression ratio will have greatest effect and there's fuel grade to consider.  65's are off cars that run highish CR and unleaded.

 

If you don't put your car on a rolling road to have the ideal advance plotted then look for the closest spec'd engine as a guide.

Also, just a stopped watch if right twice a day, you can set up any dizzy to do a reasonable job for foot down blasts around peak torque, but it'll be less immediately obvious it's hitting your wallet with poor cruising mpg.

[cal844]

I use a 65D on two A+ 998 engines, both ran very well indeed, with one being faster to 70 than my 1275 with modified head. Timing of both were set by ear and eye....

I don't doubt this, particularly if you've done some tuning. Dizzies have to compensate for a variety of factors but compression ratio will have greatest effect and there's fuel grade to consider. 65's are off cars that run highish CR and unleaded.

If you don't put your car on a rolling road to have the ideal advance plotted then look for the closest spec'd engine as a guide.
Also, just a stopped watch if right twice a day, you can set up any dizzy to do a reasonable job for foot down blasts around peak torque, but it'll be less immediately obvious it's hitting your wallet with poor cruising mpg.

The 998 engine was an unknown quantity when we bought the car. The cars are giving about 500 miles to two tanks of fuel (7.5 gallon tanks).

Give me a corner and a Subaru for a race anyday