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Running Hot


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#1 kiwi topcat

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 08:09 AM

i have a 1978 that is running HOT reads at the top end of the H on the smiths gauge.

it is a 1310 with stage 1 kit and 1,5 rockers

what radiator to up grade to

thanks TC



#2 absx2

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 08:35 AM

Your standard 3 core radiator should be well up to the job unless its blocked or your thermostat is sticking as your weather is cool at the moment and the motor is in a relatively low state of tune.

Its worth checking your water pump is doing its job along with a thermostat change and a rad flush.

Is the gauge reading correctly of does your fuel gauge read high as well ?

Is your head gasket OK ?

If the radiator is clogged I would go for a C-ARA 4444 or a C-ARA 4442 as it will leave plenty of spare cooling for future tuning.



#3 kiwi topcat

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 09:01 AM

all new motor, head, water pump etc

used to run hot to boiling in standing and idling now has a water inlet manifold and through that to heater and has kept temp down

heater core has been out and renewed only radiator is original hence which is best to go to 

are aluminum better, 2 - 3 or 4 core?



#4 johnR

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 10:40 AM

Have you checked that it's not running lean?

#5 dyshipfakta

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 12:49 PM

Fan fitted the right way around or badly out of tune are my bets

#6 DeadSquare

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 01:28 PM

all new motor, head, water pump etc

used to run hot to boiling in standing and idling now has a water inlet manifold and through that to heater and has kept temp down

heater core has been out and renewed only radiator is original hence which is best to go to 

are aluminum better, 2 - 3 or 4 core?

 

Aluminium radiators are a fad;  rather like coil spring replacements for rubber doughnuts, they are an impairment, not an improvement.

 

Although they weigh less, they are thermally inferior to a Copper radiator.



#7 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 02:21 PM

As has been intimated above you need to verify if it is "really" running hot... Gauges are exactly that a "gauge" not a guarantee just a rough indication... if its really running hot then again as intimated make sure ignition timing, and Fuel / Air mixture are "correct" before throwing money at "stats" or a Rad or a water pump. What ratio of Water to antifreeze have you put in ?



#8 Dusky

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 03:00 PM


all new motor, head, water pump etc
used to run hot to boiling in standing and idling now has a water inlet manifold and through that to heater and has kept temp down
heater core has been out and renewed only radiator is original hence which is best to go to
are aluminum better, 2 - 3 or 4 core?


Aluminium radiators are a fad; rather like coil spring replacements for rubber doughnuts, they are an impairment, not an improvement.

Although they weigh less, they are thermally inferior to a Copper radiator.

Aluminium is thermal inferior to copper. An aluminium RADIATOR is not. Why? Because they're much better constructed.

#9 cal844

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 04:19 PM

Make sure there is an engine earth fitted, and make sure the connections are clean and shiny

#10 DeadSquare

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 04:47 PM

 

 

all new motor, head, water pump etc
used to run hot to boiling in standing and idling now has a water inlet manifold and through that to heater and has kept temp down
heater core has been out and renewed only radiator is original hence which is best to go to
are aluminum better, 2 - 3 or 4 core?


Aluminium radiators are a fad; rather like coil spring replacements for rubber doughnuts, they are an impairment, not an improvement.

Although they weigh less, they are thermally inferior to a Copper radiator.

Aluminium is thermal inferior to copper. An aluminium RADIATOR is not. Why? Because they're much better constructed.

 

 

 

What is poor about the construction of Copper radiators ?



#11 cal844

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 04:52 PM

The solder used is attacked by the coolant and chokes the radiators

#12 DeadSquare

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Posted 03 September 2019 - 04:58 PM

I never knew that.

 

I must google it.



#13 gazza82

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Posted 04 September 2019 - 01:04 PM

The solder used is attacked by the coolant and chokes the radiators

 

I think that's if you use the wrong coolant .. OAT (red/pink) doesn't like some metals but the older Blue glycol based stuff should be fine.


Edited by gazza82, 04 September 2019 - 01:08 PM.


#14 DeadSquare

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Posted 04 September 2019 - 03:47 PM

There are some people who still think that all fins have holes punched in them and are soldered to the tubes, where the lead in the solder is such a poor conductor that it is almost an insulator, whereas in many cases they have a hole pushed through them, leaving a burr that makes a tight push fit with a large contact area.

 

When complete, the Copper is chemically treated to produce a mat black surface oxide, which radiates heat better than bright shiny aluminium.






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