21 replies to this topic

[Spider]

 

 

Is there a trick to fit the reverse light switch on rod change?

I put the gear lever In reverse, the screwed in the switch. I connected a test light across the switch so I knew when I had it screwed in far enough.

The light came on when the switch was screwed a long way in. However I could not get the lever out of reverse!!  I had to screw the switch out to free the lever. It is as if the plunger in the switch was not contacting what ever it should.

I have A Mini manual & also a Metro manual , but neither mention the reverse light switch.

any advice would be appreciated.

 

I'm just wondering if the Yoke (or eye) inside the shifter is up-side-down ?

Might have to remove the plate on the bottom to have a look to see what's going on here.

 

 

Hi Moke

I have never driven this car, so it is possible something may have been assembled incorrectly! The yoke hangs down below the change rod, but could this be installed back to front? The. Manual is very poor so I cannot see if there is a right way or a wrong way for this to go in.

anyone got any photos?

 

 

That is the correct way around.

 

While you have the cover off, wind in the switch and you might be able to see what's fouling it.

 

It maybe that you are selecting 4th Gear as AlasdairM has suggested. You can always tell when you have selected reverse with a Rod Sift Box as it make a very distinctive   tap / clunk   sound that is totally different to all the other gears, that pretty much make the same sound. You do need to lift the stick to get it in to reverse, though, if you have the bottom plate of the shifter off, you won't need to.
 

[DUF2]

Apologies to 28hodge for hi jacking this thread!

i have had another look at the reverse light switch, unfortunately the original one was damaged so it was thrown away. The new one seems to have a very short stroke, I measure it as 4.6mm fully extended, but the switch “makes” only when the plunger is almost all the way in, so am wondering if there may be a problem with the new switch.

I have fitted the switch, with the gear lever in reverse, screwing the switch in and using a test light to see when the switch “makes”. However once the switch makes, it is difficult to get the lever out reverse and it will not go back into reverse position!

Here is a view of the selector in neutral

 18EE88F9-6E28-49DC-9D73-0220E80778DF.jpeg   62.21K   1 downloads

Here the selector is in top gear

 A2647058-F902-4E1B-BC15-8718319AC67C.jpeg   69.3K   1 downloads

 

this is what happened when I try to select reverse

 C378034E-7CDD-4C74-B956-E4DF89341136.jpeg   57.82K   1 downloads

It is not that clear in the photo but it appears that the plunger is preventing the yolk moving into reverse position. Something must not be correct.

Edited by DUF2, 24 May 2020 - 04:21 PM.

[Spider]

I'll check on some of the switches I have but I'm sure these switches, while having a fairly long stroke for what they are, do make fairly early on. I suspect here, it maybe the switch itself.

 

If I remember, I'll check later today.

[Spider]

I just measured a new switch.

 

I found it made contact when the Plunger was depressed 1.48 mm and it had a total travel of 5.11 mm.

[DUF2]

I just measured a new switch.

 

I found it made contact when the Plunger was depressed 1.48 mm and it had a total travel of 5.11 mm.

Spider, thanks for that, it looks like my new switch is goosed. I have emailed the supplier to see what he says.

thanks again for your help.  (still trying to resolve my caliper issue!)

[DUF2]

Supplier has checked switches he has in stock, they “make” at about 1.5mm of travel, so a new switch is on it’s way.

[DUF2]

It took a while for the switch to arrive,  but it is now fitted and working fine. It was a shame the first one was goosed, but Minimine sorted the problem.

but to be fair, it was Moke Spider who advised me the throw of the switch was likely to be the problem. Thanks Moke Spider.

Edited by DUF2, 15 June 2020 - 03:26 PM.