9 replies to this topic

[ELTEL MINI MAN]

Hi, I have always found this site a great source of knowledge and inspiration so now hopefully some knowledgeable person out there in REAL Mini-Land can assist me with a small mechanical fixing issue.?

My 1275 Mpi has been straightened and is being rebuilt. As part of this the pedal box had to come out - it was here I noticed the previous owner/user "bodged" up the rear fixing where it meets the dash rail.

The old dash rail was badly deformed so a new one was correctly fitted but for the life of me I cannot see now see how the pedal box fitting now marries up with the upper fixing of the steering column.! 

I could "bodge" it like the previous owners' attempt but I would like to do it correctly - Unfortunately I cannot find any local late Mpi Minis so I cannot even ask to check them and see how it is fitted on their models.  Anybody out there who has a later model Mini (think '97 on) who can tale a couple of photos of this area and post them I will work out the rest.  Thanks in anticipation.

[orcadian]

There should be 2 holes in your new dash rail and a slot in the rearmost part of the pedal box (nearest the column). There is a separate plate about 5 inches long, slightly wider at one end with 2 threaded holes and this is laid on top of the dash rail inside. 2 security bolts then go upwards through the column bracket on through a peculiar shaped plate (sometimes painted yellow) trapping the rear of the box and the other with a large thick washer just outside it.

I realise a picture would be far better but the dash is in the way and no easy way unless someone has a car in pieces or a really good exploded view. Hope this makes some sense!

Ian

[ELTEL MINI MAN]

Ian - Hey - thanks for the time to answer and help out.  Yes. I have the strange "wedge shaped" piece - I thought it might be a "bodge-up" by the previous owner.!  At least you have laid that theory to rest.!

Yes, understand it's not easy to get a photo - mine is all stripped out but forgot when assembled not much space around there.!  You insight has certainly helped - The dash bar has got to slotted holes in it but these do not line up with the rear of the pedal box. The dash rail was replaced as part of a "straitening" exercise so I'm thinking it's a pattern part or something else is out of alignment with the rail, or (hope not) the engine bulkhead/cross-member.  I'm tempted to open out the slots a tad to try and line up. 

In my haste to disassemble (had to get body to body-shop) I failed to take any pics myself..!!  So it's good that the Mini-Forum has helped out again.  Are you a Mini "enterprise".? Can I as where are you based.?

Thanks again. Take care.

[orcadian]

Thanks for the reply and glad that info was partly useful. If you attach the pedal box loosely into its position and only put the two bolts in loosely which go either side of the box, pointing into the engine bay. Then the slot at the tail of the box should be in line with one of the dash rail holes. The column bracket then gets trapped between the tail and the dash rail and one (security normally) bolt goes through the whole lot with that peculiar small plate under the head of the bolt into that ‘wedge shaped’ piece and the remaining bolt into the other hole in the column bracket and into said plate. Finally tighten the two bolts going forwards - I think one of those has the stop plate attached to rest the throttle pedal against - the right hand one!
Just an enthusiast for Minis - have owned 31 and reshelled a dozen or so. Lots of bike and car stuff on my web site. Now retired to Orkney.
Ian

Forgot to say, elongating the holes should sort your problem if it doesn’t line up. The pedal box gets its stability from being fastened to the large box section running across the car - the dash rail fixing is important but not contributing a great deal to any torque reaction from the pedals - it’s made from very light gauge steel anyway.

Edited by orcadian, 22 September 2019 - 09:37 AM.

[ELTEL MINI MAN]

Ian,

Thanks again for your insight and close instructions - I have likewise worked on many minis (need rather than enjoyment - everyday cars for my wife and sons - just to keep them on the road!).

This is the first one I have taken back to basics and as a later model the steering column and pedal box config is slightly different to the older models (I think.!)

As would be I chanced today to go to a little local charity function where they had some "vintage" cars on show and one was a '93 BRG Limited edition 1275.!  The config of the steering and pedal box looked identical to mine - so I managed to snap a few pics (lying on my back) and hey ho can now see now all the bits.! Coupled with you words I hope I am now home and dry.  Orkney wow that is a fair way away.!  Have a great retirement. I am..!!

Thanks again.

Terry (AKA ELTEL)

[orcadian]

Great Terry,
Hope it all goes well from here on! There are a few challenges on Minis as you are aware - split pins in pedals, lower engine mount bolts, front knuckle joints to name a few. I even started splitting words to put extra swear words in for some of those!
I used to travel through Dereham when we had friends in Taverham, Norwich and we lived in Southport. Not been down that way for years now, we moved to Orkney and the friends now live in New Zealand!

Ian

[orcadian]

Had another thought!
If the pedal box you are trying to fit is the same one that was fitted prior to the repair, then the tail of the box could have been pushed sideways by the damaged dash rail. The box is not very strong at the tail, laterally. If it’s fitted the the bulkhead you might be able to see any discrepancy and correct it with a suitable lever. The tail should be central to the two stronger ends where the pedals pivot.

Ian

[ELTEL MINI MAN]

Ian,

I am just across the Wensum valley from Taverham.!  My you have put some miles between you and your friends.! 

Thanks for the update on the dash rail. The pedal box is "dimensionally" OK - certainly lines up as you describe - the dash rail was replaced because as you suspected it was damaged and then bodged up - my body guy wouldn't have it to try and fix so new one was fitted.!  

My next venture is to get the entire wiring loom back in and then get the engine back in and running.!  Not had much experience of Mpi units - the injectors have been tested and one replaced when it failed.  All the sensors appear OK, so hopefully she will fire up.  I'm trying to find somebody to test out the ECU - although the car was running when I got it I'm not sure if it is within spec (the car sat around for nearly half it's life in a barn.!).

Thanks again - great chatting with you.

[orcadian]

The wiring loom is relatively straight forward in an empty shell, especially if you haven’t put the screen back yet - you can work with both hands to tease the loom through the bulkhead holes. I used the whole loom from the crashed Cooper LE - even the rear section fitted with only small mods in the Estate shell. Yes, ECU’s and 5AS - just about the only spares I don’t have but if you need any other stuff just shout - I bought an inlet manifold with all sensors and injectors years back - this stuff will get more difficult to source. Earths are very important on the MPI - slightly increased resistance from corrosion throws up all kinds of problems.

Ian

[ELTEL MINI MAN]

The wiring loom is relatively straight forward in an empty shell, especially if you haven’t put the screen back yet - you can work with both hands to tease the loom through the bulkhead holes. I used the whole loom from the crashed Cooper LE - even the rear section fitted with only small mods in the Estate shell. Yes, ECU’s and 5AS - just about the only spares I don’t have but if you need any other stuff just shout - I bought an inlet manifold with all sensors and injectors years back - this stuff will get more difficult to source. Earths are very important on the MPI - slightly increased resistance from corrosion throws up all kinds of problems.

Ian

Ian, Hi, yes, just putting the original loom back in now - (I still have the windscreen out so your tip is really useful - thanks) - I am always aware of earth issues and am ensuring all are clean - electronic signals rely on good contacts - something I have been aware of all my working life.!  (The number of vehicles you see running about with a dim headlight, or irregular operating indicators and brake lights flashing in "sympathy" because of bad earth returns is amazing.!  Auto electricians must be very well employed (or not, as the case may well be.!)  -  My inlet manifold looks OK, of course sensors are so "sensitive" I expect I will only be able to tell if they are not working OK is when I come to fire it up."  Take care.