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Question About Wiring Up A Reverse Light


Best Answer viz139 , 20 September 2019 - 04:47 PM

I work on an Aussi mini and the reverse light wiring was totally different to UK spec and I don't know what the SA spec is. On the UK cars the switch connects to two bullet connectors in the tunnel beside the gear select. At this point the loom enters the car under the carpet and goes up to another two bullets behind the heater where it joins the main loom.

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#16 KTS

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Posted 23 September 2019 - 05:12 PM

 I stripped the ends of the wires of the switch, and checked for continuity using a multimeter, and nothing. So, this suggests the switch needs replacing and I'm hoping I can find one locally. 

 

 

did you check continuity with the plunger pushed in - if you checked it 'at rest', it should be open circuit



#17 viz139

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 08:57 AM

 

 

I'm not sure of the wire route on the UK built cars, however, the Aust built cars had a pair or wires that ran from the switch, along the steady rod of the shifter, then clipped to the LH and front side of the front subframe, where it ran up with the rest of the engine bay harness.

One of these wires got a feed from the Fuse Box and the other ran around the firewall, disappearing up the LH front pillar, along the internal gutter (under the roof lining) appearing back out near the fuel tank and then on to the rear lights.

The way the wires got to the switch wasn't one of our best bits of work,,,,

I worked on an Aussi Clubman were the reverse lights were built into the rear indicators using dual filament bulbs. The bulbs were rated 21/21watt which we connot get in Europe, can they be got is Oz?
We can get them easily. If you need some pm me.

 

Thanks. the mini has changed hands since and is for sale again . If I remember right I think a boot mounted light was fitted but I will let the owner know the blubs are still available.  Personally I would go back to the original as it is such a rare  setup in Europe.



#18 Vinay-RS

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 09:05 AM

 

 I stripped the ends of the wires of the switch, and checked for continuity using a multimeter, and nothing. So, this suggests the switch needs replacing and I'm hoping I can find one locally. 

 

 

did you check continuity with the plunger pushed in - if you checked it 'at rest', it should be open circuit

 

I did put the car in reverse which should have closed the switch. I'll try the suggestion posted here of checking if the switch needs to be threaded in further for it to be closed. 






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