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Boot Floor Right Rear Corner Repair - ?

rust repair

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#1 bluedragon

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 07:28 AM

I'm taking my first real swing at repairing rusty panels. I've managed to stick to paint and dent pounding up until now. And this repair has things that puzzle me. 

 

First, the original boot floor corner (where the rear subframe mounts bolt up) has a construction that I don't see in the body panel diagrams offered by vendors. In particular, the metal has three layers (boot floor, a gusset of some sort, then the closing panel assembly.) Looking at all diagrams, there are only two layers (floor and closing panel.) 

 

If the middle gusset part should be part of a replacement floor, then the corner repair pieces I purchased just in case don't have it. 1st pic outlines the area I'm talking about. I have seen this extra plate on other pictures of floor repair work. What is it? 

 

Next, I bought some corner repair panels just in case. These panels lack the reinforcing gusset mentioned above. 

 

And, the right hand panels have a stamped recess for the wheel arch bracket, which doesn't appear to exist on the original boot floor (hard to tell because of the rust, but there's no recess.) And the left rear corner boot floor panel has no recess stamped in it! What is this recess for?

 

I can't tell what purpose it would serve. It doesn't seem to facilitate the arch bracket, and of course the left side doesn't have one at all. One is a Heritage panel, one is a Magnum, both have the stamped recess on the right side. Magnum left side has no recess.

 

Finally, the corner repair panels have a flange around the perimeter which would imply to a novice like me that this is meant to facilitate spot welding. But it wouldn't look original. It almost seems like these panels should be inverted so the flange points downwards, hiding it below, if there's something to weld the perimeter too. I probably will not use them and instead just cut a repair floor piece myself, if I can figure out the mystery of the gusset.

 

So to summarize:

 

1) What's that middle gusset plate, and where do I get a replacement if it's needed?

2) What is the stamped recess in the replacement right corner sections for? 

3) Does the flange mean these corner sections should be spot-welded in along the flange perimeter?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

 

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#2 elliot341

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 07:59 AM

The layers you are seeing are part of the valance close out panel. The panel you have got are cover over panels rather than cut out and replacement panels. Take a look on M-Machine's catalogue for more panels (they sell magnum, heritage and their own panels so have a bigger selection). There is a panel which replaces part of the boot floor. If you arent replacing either the rear panel or valence or valence closers it may be difficult to work with. 



#3 Wizzalong

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 07:24 PM

I had the same problem you will find hmp 441020 sub frame mounting/rear apron closing panel is made up of three parts one of which is the strengthening panel, This fits under boot floor.



#4 sonikk4

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 08:59 PM

That corner repair panel looks wrong. The floor is basically a flat panel that is curved around the wheel arch and then should go in between the rear panel and rear valance.

 

The rear subframe bracket

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

 

Sits directly on the floor and against the wheel arch. There is no recess for the bracket to directly fit into.

 

The close out panel

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

 

is multi layered as mentioned and is spot welded directly to the underside of the floor and to the valance.

 

Whats the rest of the boot floor like underneath. have a look at the to small plates, one either side on the underside (bump stop plates) as this is another prime area to corrode.

If there is corrosion there and other places i would seriously recommend you buy a complete boot floor panel. Big job but gets rid of everything in one go. Done a few of these now



#5 bluedragon

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Posted 21 September 2019 - 02:25 AM

Thanks everyone. This made me do more research and look at what I had.

 

In anticipation, I had purchased the HMP441020 part, but what puzzled me was that it was just a single plate (the smaller section, not the larger plate I termed the "gusset" that gives the doubling effect.) 

 

However, the HMP441020 I received appears to be smaller than the MiniSpares part that Sonikk linked. I didn't realize this when shopping. Looking at it now, I can see it looks longer. And if I look at the pic of MiniSpares non-genuine part https://www.minispar.../ALA8623MS.aspx the larger size and "plate" is clear compared to the part I purchased (see 1st attached image.)

 

It looks like my HMP441020 is an inaccurate repro piece.

 

Interestingly, a while back I visited a Mini restoration shop and took a few pics of a boot floor in progress (2nd pic.) Looks like this restorer was making his own reinforcing plates to attach the "small" HMP441020 part to. Because I hadn't started my repair I didn't question him on it though so I can't be sure.  :(

 

This all started when I decided to replace the rear valence which had rust perforations. As always with rust, it snowballed but I grind until I see clean metal and the rust hasn't even gotten close to the battery box yet, so I'm hopeful I can avoid the full floor replacement. If I were experienced and had a rotisserie I might well replace the whole boot floor as being faster in the long run, but I'm too chicken to do that.

 

The spare tire recess did have some perforations but I ground those to clean metal and welded patches, and the other side of the boot shows no signs of pitting or flaking. All there was for coating was a mediocre primer coat in the well floor area behind the valance, hence the rust pinholes. Surprisingly, the closing panel area in the vicinity of the pictured area was not rusted out or perforated despite only having the cheap primer coat as protection. I'm sure you skilled body workers could have replaced the whole floor in less time that it took me to patch all the holes!

 

I still have no idea what that stamped recess is for on the repair patch panels. Even the Heritage panel has it. I imagine Magnum just copied it.

 

But if I'm correct on the size of the area to repair, I hope to just make my own replacement section from sheet metal. Based on the flange of HMP441020, it really does look like I should flip the patch panel upside down if I were to use it and employ the left-hand section on the right!

 

More as I plod further into this... thanks all.

 

 

Dave

 

 

 

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#6 Bobbins

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Posted 21 September 2019 - 05:58 AM

Surely the recess is there because it's an over-panel and as well as fitting over the existing floor panel it needs to fit over the floor to wheel arch bracket?

#7 sonikk4

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Posted 21 September 2019 - 10:42 AM

Surely the recess is there because it's an over-panel and as well as fitting over the existing floor panel it needs to fit over the floor to wheel arch bracket?


Which In turn makes it more of a bodge.

I understand it’s impossible to get to the underside of the bracket due to the valance closeout panel fitted underneath, subframe fitted etc etc. HOWEVER unless you are just trying to get through a MOT to get a bit more time on the road before a resto then it’s a lot of work for little gain.

It’s all subjective to what you want and knowing exactly how much work is involved. In this case the OP has got the subframe off so access is not an issue. Plus as we all know rust will be lurking between the layers so in this particular case take off everything, repair properly as required then install all new parts.



#8 Bobbins

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Posted 21 September 2019 - 03:03 PM

Absolutely, just like over sills. These sort of panels were sold years ago when cars were being kept on the road as cheap daily drivers, these days repairs should be done properly.

#9 bluedragon

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Posted 22 September 2019 - 09:29 AM

Surely the recess is there because it's an over-panel and as well as fitting over the existing floor panel it needs to fit over the floor to wheel arch bracket?

 

Yes, that's got to be how these were intended to be used. Since I've already cut off the right side bracket I couldn't trial fit, but comparing with the equivalent left side repair panel it does appear that the pressings are meant to fit over the bracket. 

 

It just didn't register with me because such a fitment would be awfully crude - I can't imagine myself doing it in this way, even though I'm far from a cosmetic perfectionist. All I really care about is a strong, sound repair, especially in an obscure place like the boot floor corner. Nothing I saw when I bought these panels ages ago suggested this is how they were supposed to be used.

 

To top it off, even though left and right side both have brackets, the left side corner repair panel has no pressings to fit over the bracket - it, instead, is simply cut away to clear the bracket entirely. I see no difference (other than the orientation.) Yet the panels in my attached pic come from the same company. Crazy!

 

 

Dave

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#10 Verderad

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Posted 22 September 2019 - 01:25 PM

As Sonikk has mentioned full boot floor is a better job. I started out creating a new wheel well and bought the boot repair panel that runs across the back. I ended up getting a full boot floor.
It’s less work than cutting out sides of the boot floor and seam welding in a repair panel.
It can be done with shell on stands just not the best welding position. Good luck which ever way you go.





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