24 replies to this topic

[ryanlogsdon]

Hi Guys,

 

I've taken my Mini out 3 times in the past few weeks, and each time, she's died as I was driving along -- not at a stop light -- she just dies as we're driving.

 

Everything electrical's brand new (or a year old by now).

 

And the last time she started dying, I opened the choke wide, and that kept her alive.

 

Can you point me in the right direction to what might be going on?

 

As always, thank you!

Ryan

[Fast Ivan]

does it idle ok?

[jaysmini1983]

check all the fuse box connections, they may have gone dirty

[expat_cat]

More details on the fuel set up?  Carbs (type), Injection...

The choke trick suggests a problem with fuel feed,

 

And does the car restart afterwards?  After how long?  Runs OK otherwise?

[gazza82]

If the choke keeps it alive, it's running too weak at some point or the needle isn't lifting in the jet

[andyapanel]

If you are running a carb, check the piston is not sticking; it certainly sounds like it might be fuel, rather than electrical.

Good luck

[panky]

Fuel tank vent blocked maybe so drawing a vacuum on the tank.

Next time it happens take the fuel cap off and see if it draws in air.

Edited by panky, 16 October 2019 - 11:48 AM.

[Benoit_Dupont]

I just had a similar problem: the car died on my while cruising and it was freaking dangerous.

 

turned out that my fuel pump was faulty: it was working ok at higher regime, but when I was cruising at, say, 2000RPM or below, it did not push enough fuel in the carb tank, which got empty, and then it died. 

while I waited to replace the fuel pump, a solution was to drive like a maniac, always at high RPM. 

 

I think it is because the way the pump works, it's linked to engine rev. so if its output is too low, operating at higher rev allows ultimately more fuel in. now the fuel pump is new, and it works fine.

[Curley]

... a solution was to drive like a maniac, always at high RPM. 

 

[Benoit_Dupont]

well, I did not say it was an elegant solution... it just worked for a while :)

[luismx123]

I had a similar problem. It depends if you have an HS style carb or HIF carb. 
The float needle on my HS4 decided to stop working and locked itself into position, stopping gas coming to the engine. It would then after a few seconds, open up again and my engine would basically jumpstart itself again. 
Let us know what carb youve got, then maybe check the float chamber and inside there the float valve needle thingy.

Hope this helps ;)

[Bobbins]

I had a similar problem. It depends if you have an HS style carb or HIF carb. 
The float needle on my HS4 decided to stop working and locked itself into position, stopping gas coming to the engine. It would then after a few seconds, open up again and my engine would basically jumpstart itself again. 
Let us know what carb youve got, then maybe check the float chamber and inside there the float valve needle thingy.

Hope this helps ;)

 

+1

 

And more so on sharp LH bends, pulling the choke out fully would prevent stalling after which it was fine again. For a while it just became part of my driving style to get round sharp left handers ... it was 40 years ago though!

[ryanlogsdon]

a solution was to drive like a maniac, always at high RPM. 

 

 

Haha!

 

It idles just fine .. normal as at 57 year old car can. :)

 

It's a 62 Morris, so I want to say SU carb, but I'm not sure what the difference is, googling the two.  Tips to tell the difference?

 

I thought it could be the float, so I changed that over the weekend, and I had the same problem when I took it back on the road for a test drive.  Interestingly, like you guys mention, when I hit the throttle, it woke up for a second, but it still died.  When it started again, a mile or two later it started dying, and that's when I pulled the choke, keeping it alive the rest of the way home.

 

I only changed the float in the carb; I didn't change the needle above the float.  Is there any concern with that sticking?

 

When it dies, it comes back to life in 2-10 minutes.

 

Fuel pump info: a new Edelbrock. It's the loudest part of the whole car (engine included!)... turns out that's Edelbrock "quality." Wish I knew that before buying!

 

All fuses are new, but I'll pull them and sand the metal endings tonight.

 

Thanks!

Ryan

[panky]

Take the fuel cap off and go for a drive and see what happens

[luismx123]

 

a solution was to drive like a maniac, always at high RPM. 

 

 

Haha!

 

It idles just fine .. normal as at 57 year old car can. :)

 

It's a 62 Morris, so I want to say SU carb, but I'm not sure what the difference is, googling the two.  Tips to tell the difference?

 

I thought it could be the float, so I changed that over the weekend, and I had the same problem when I took it back on the road for a test drive.  Interestingly, like you guys mention, when I hit the throttle, it woke up for a second, but it still died.  When it started again, a mile or two later it started dying, and that's when I pulled the choke, keeping it alive the rest of the way home.

 

I only changed the float in the carb; I didn't change the needle above the float.  Is there any concern with that sticking?

 

When it dies, it comes back to life in 2-10 minutes.

 

Fuel pump info: a new Edelbrock. It's the loudest part of the whole car (engine included!)... turns out that's Edelbrock "quality." Wish I knew that before buying!

 

All fuses are new, but I'll pull them and sand the metal endings tonight.

 

Thanks!

Ryan

 

if its all original, then you surely have a SU HS carb. 
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

youre looking at swapping out the float needle in the centre. There is a "viton" tipped one that works really well and is very reliable. I'd go about swapping that first before doing much else IMO. its cheap and worth doing nonetheless if it hasnt been before ;)

Your symptons are the same i had...Hope it helps!