Hey all, just found this engine on gleebay and was wondering what the consensus is to "what is drivable" or not. Is this spec too harsh for daily driving?
https://www.ebay.co....~8AAOSwaOZdVcmG
Would an engine this spec be terrible for the road? I know it has a pretty lumpy cam and is made for racing, but if I smacked a hif 44 on there to limit its power, would it be more "reliable" or drivable? The seller says 100+bhp and my logic says if I push the engine to that spec, its longevity will suffer, on the other hand by "detuning" it a handful of % down, it should be more comfortable to drive and hopefully last longer...
Thoughts?
First thought:-..... put parcel tape over all those holes in the clutch cover, and you'll save a bit of power.
This set up is unsuitable for city use, but could be used with a 997/1098/1275 stroke crank on the open road (points permitting).
Chemically cleaned ? water is a chemical !
Selected block ! were there more than two ?
Tri-metal shells. All shells are tri-metal.
Three rods get lightened when balancing a set of four.
If the bores are too small all blocks need pocketing and a center main strap is prudent.
The 544 was a race cam in the 1950's.
ALL new timing chains stretch !
Modified rocker breather admits, too much 'blow-by' past the rings,
The competition head studs are a waste of money in a 1/2 race engine.
A competition clutch is not "nice" to use for everyday driving in city traffic.
The straight cut drop gears are a pain in the ears.
Under a 998 road engine, you don't need a KAD pinion support.
With a 544 cam, you might see 90BHP (before going to specsavers), but you'd be "pushing it" to fleetingly see 100BHP+.
Final thought:- .... for £4,500-00 you could buy two 998 engines (with dynamo and starter), Supercharge one, and have a much nicer 85BHP+ car (+ spare engine).