11 replies to this topic

[Coolingthunder]

Hi guys, me again!

Next problem on the list, clutch hydraulics!

I have the slave cylinder out, fluid drained etc etc. Since I have been having some very slight clutch issues(along with a leaky master cylinder) , I decided to replace all the clutch bits I can without pulling the engine. How on Earth do I get the clutch pushrod cotter pin out? The pushrod (that goes into the slave) has some play, I have a new one ready( along with a new pin to hold it into place) however the split pin at the rear is impossible to get at and remove!!!

Furthermore I get the impression that the pin itself is jammed in place and then I won't be able to punch it out because there is simply no room!


Any input?

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Edited by Coolingthunder, 19 October 2019 - 05:17 PM.

[nicklouse]

Long nose pliers.

 

and rotate the pivot pin as it will have a groove worn in it.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

They are a little tricky.  I just had to remove the lower one today on the earlier type of clutch. 

 

I tried all sorts from the top but in the end I held the pin on the top side with some vice-grips and managed to spread the split pin with a screwdriver by going in from below with the wheel off through the gap between the subframe and inner wing.

 

When I refit it I'll put the split pin at the top instead to make future removal less insanity inducing.

[mini-mad-mark]

I'd say its no more difficult than putting the "7 o'clock" screw in the clutch housing when changing the clutch in the car (although many leave it out

Or doing the master cylinder split pins/clevis pins (easier than those I would say, if anything)

 

A mini probably has no more or less "tricky" fittings than any other car- I had to change the headlight bulb on an '07 Fiesta.......I had to take of half the front off the car to get to it

 

Patience and the satisfaction when you get it out/in is sweet!!

 

Regards

[timmy850]

You can also remove the clutch arm completely if it’s easier to get the bottom clevis pin out. It’s possible the arm needs replacing if it’s bent or worn on the ball

[SpringGoat]

I worked on Minis when they were only old and not ancient. I don't see why you would need to replace this rod -

 

UNLESS

 

You have verified that the clutch slave cylinder piston is running out of travel. I think there is a circlip in the bore of the cylinder and if the piston is not hitting it then you don't need to worry about that rod.

 

If it is running out of travel then you would need to figure out why.

 

Methinks more root cause analysis might be needed

[Cooper Mac]

I did this a few days ago, and mine was also a pig!

 

Spray a load of Plusgas, or similar on it, tap the small end with a hammer (tricky, but not impossible). Repeat.....

 

As soon as the clevis pin moves axially, you can get some long nose pliers on it to turn it, and then get the split pin out!

 

Then all you need to do is remove the pin by tapping with a hammer, levering with a screwdriver (!) and pulling it out with long nose pliers etc....

 

Job done!

[Coolingthunder]

Okay the split pin is gone now, I went through the bottom with the wheel off. Next issue, the pin itself is jammed tight, I already hit it with some WD40 and a punch I maneuvered in but very hard to get a good angle... Vice grips don't really work either as the copper tube for the FR brake line is there, in the way... Any hints here?


If I take the entire arm out (the entire clutch arm assy) do I have to do anything with those 2 big adjustment bolts? Haynes seems to have no info here

[Chris1275gt]

Hi
No the arm is not fixed to the plunger,the ball on the end of the arm just sits in a hole in the plunger.

[Coolingthunder]

From the look of it that pin is also seized, can't get it to turn around either... So I'd prefer not trying to release that split pin just to end up with the same problem

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Get some penetrating fluid like Plusgas.  WD40 is not penetrating fluid.

[wile e coyote]

Sometimes they can be a real pig - especially so with some heavy wear and really jammed up - almost certainly  both pins will need replacing, and if later down your jobs list you've got "change the engine mounts" then combine the job  - whip off the wok and change the clevis pins on the bench whilst you're at it....the clutch plunger can be freed up at the same time.....