24 replies to this topic

[ChrisDowning]

Hi

I am not really electrically minded. But have a basic understanding of circuits and load etc
I can wire household stuff, but don’t really understand vehicle electronics as such.

I’m looking at installing a fused power bank to supply power for a few gauges and spare USB points.
I’m doing this because:

I have a new dash and I’m installing a centre console.
The current temp gauge (nippon sekai) in the triple clocks doesn’t work and I can’t trace the issue.
The existing car wiring looks messy but works and I don’t want to mess about with it.

I want a couple of usb charge points.
I want to have a smiths temp gauge and install a smiths clock (time)
I want to illuminate these as well as add illumination to my existing mechanical Smiths oil pressure gauge

I’ve got voltage regulators for the clocks and usb charge points etc.

So I thought I may as well throw in a fused power bank behind the dash to make things easier.

What’s the best way?
Where can I pull power from?
Can I provide power to the existing fuse box on a spare block and then fuse and run run from that?
Where can I pull power from?

Much thanks ?

Chris

[Spider]

I note the title of your thread here, but all the same, I think the first things to establish are;-

 

What items you want running Live all the time,

What items you'd like on the Accessories Circuit and

What items you'd like Live only with the Engine running

 

This will narrow down were to get the feeds from.

 

Then in each of these groups, how many fuses you'd like to have, which is not always straight forward as real estate to put a big fuse block in isn't always available and keep in mind as well, for every fuse, it does mean running another wire. 1 or 2 wires on their own don't add up to much space but when you start getting up around 8 or 12, it does and needs some planning on how to run these wires.

 

The other aspect of how many circuits also comes down to what style of fuse you'd like to use and what's commercially available. It's a wise idea to stick with the same fuses that are already in the car or convert that fuse block to a type you'd rather have.

 

I nearly always run the Blade type fuses these days as they take up way less space, readily available and highly reliable as well as sealed fused boxes being available in configurations from about 4 to 12 fuses.

 

Coming back to the feeds for the circuits, an item like your clock needs to be live all the time, yet the Temperature Gauge you'll only want coming on with the Engine, so this might give you a guide as to how to split them up. USB sockets, I tend now to run from the Accessories, though if you are thinking of having them Live all the time, I'd suggest finding those without an LED in them.

[ChrisDowning]

Thanks buddy, totally make sense and thank you for your reply, it’s much appreciated.
To answer a few of your questions.
1. I plan on using blade fuses
2. I have ordered 2 fuse banks already. They’re both 6 x
3. As far as “real estate” goes, I am fitting a custom consoles centre console under the dash so there’s plenty of room. The rest is cable management which I can’t really see being an issue.
4. I plan to fit the clock and the temp gauge on a board I have installed on the front of the centre console and 2 x usb charging plugs (one drivers side and one passenger side) on the side of the centre console.
5. I plan to have these powered from a perm hot feed to one of the banks and I will have an LED switch on the USB chargers so I can “turn them off” when not in use. But have the option to use them without turning on the ignition just in case.
I was going to power from the battery rather than a hot feed from fuse box side but not sure if that’s a good idea or not.

The other bank I want to pull power from a switched / ignition source.

1. I want to run my temperature gauge from this.
2. I want to run illumination for temp gauge, clock and my existing mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Apologies. I guess I should have worded my original question a lot better.

[ChrisDowning]

I’ve attached 3 photos. One of the blocks and 2 of the centre console to show what I’ve prepped.
The original centre console had a gap where I’ve installed the clocks, but I’ve made up a carpeted piece of MDF to hold the clocks at the front. So there’s plenty of space behind for the blocks and voltage regulators etc.

Just gonna be a bit of jiggery pokery when I fit the centre console as it has to be in pieces to install it. ie sides off and then screw them in once it’s in situe.

I guess I should mention that it’s an 87 carb car.

Attached Files

•  BE4D2E61-CCD7-4BB8-A75F-B8A97281B98F.jpeg   47.89K   7 downloads
•  DCEDCC10-0A00-4495-A946-D3536C094CF8.jpeg   89.48K   14 downloads
•  4289721A-0755-4752-9F55-E1E96366A275.jpeg   87.6K   11 downloads

Edited by ChrisDowning, 27 October 2019 - 06:36 PM.

[dyshipfakta]

I would run a relay from the solenoid to a new fuse box and switch the relay with an ignition live from the existing fuse box. Will give you plenty of feeds for odds and ends in the future.

[ChrisDowning]

I would run a relay from the solenoid to a new fuse box and switch the relay with an ignition live from the existing fuse box. Will give you plenty of feeds for odds and ends in the future.

Sounds like a plan and a bit like common sense. Cheers for that.
I’ll look up a diagram on how to do that

[ChrisDowning]

So...... as long as I’m getting this correct.

Cable from Solenoid better terminal to 40amp relay. (Would it be safe if not a little over protective to use 30amp /3mm cable? ) and insert inline fuse between the two?
Cable from Switched ignition source (white wire on existing fuse panel) to relay.
Cable from Relay to ground (probably ground end of new fuse panel then send it to battery Neg terminal
Cable for power from Relay to new fuse panel

This will give me the switches power than I need.

Then to get the “always on”

The same as above but get the power source from a hot wire on the existing fuse panel? If so which one would you suggest ? Or should I run straight from the battery?

Edited by ChrisDowning, 27 October 2019 - 11:51 PM.

[ChrisDowning]

Always on requirement will only be the clock 24/7 and occasionally 1 x usb charger as and when required. But these will be switched off for 99% of the time.

[Spider]

It seems you're much more on top of it all than I first guessed with my first post ^, sorry if I 'dumbed it down' too much. Your work is quite neat.

 

As the fuse blocks you have all have a common feed, you'll need 2 of them, one which is switched and the other that constant Live. While I like some of the features of these Blocks you have, they do take up a lot of space. If you have that space to burn, then happy days.

 

You're proposed plan to get a supply I think is fine. I would suggest a fuse as close as you can from where you pick up the feed from, but I'm not at all crazy about any in line fuse, they look untidy and medium to longer term, never reliable. I'd suggest the one feed to both the Relay and for the constant Live would be fine. I'd also suggest another fuse in the Switched Wire that will feed to Relay Coil, again, close to where you are picking that up from.

 

In regards to wires, personally, I don't like running anything smaller than about 1.0 mm², I know most circuits don't need what they can take, but the reason I use that as my smallest is for the mechanical strength at the Lugs and Plugs and that's where most wiring will play up and give issues. Sometime in a small panel, I may go down to 0.75 mm² but I really limit it's use.

[KTS]

you can buy relay holders that include provision for 2 or 3 blade fuses. 

 

for your always on circuit, you could split the main feed you're going to put in and use for both the switched live circuit & the 'always on' line.  split the feed at the relay block and you can have fuse protection at both circuits 

 

https://www.autoelec...701/category/37

[ChrisDowning]

Thanks guys! Your advice is really appreciated and gratefully received

[ChrisDowning]

Want a giggle ? This is what I found behind the black tape...... to be honest I’m NOT surprised..........

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•  F6E46C8E-A1EE-4E37-8D6F-171704FB0A40.jpeg   117.54K   3 downloads

Edited by ChrisDowning, 30 October 2019 - 12:25 PM.

[ChrisDowning]

So........ £200 ish quid from Mini spares for a new front loom might just be safe answer I think!

[sonscar]

I must be (am) a bit of a bodger as I would repair that with some suitable wire and some heat shrink.Steve..

[cal844]

I must be (am) a bit of a bodger as I would repair that with some suitable wire and some heat shrink.Steve..

I would too, or a crimp connector then covered with extra heat shrink.