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Switched Electric Supply


Best Answer Spider , 27 October 2019 - 05:37 PM

I note the title of your thread here, but all the same, I think the first things to establish are;-

 

What items you want running Live all the time,

What items you'd like on the Accessories Circuit and

What items you'd like Live only with the Engine running

 

This will narrow down were to get the feeds from.

 

Then in each of these groups, how many fuses you'd like to have, which is not always straight forward as real estate to put a big fuse block in isn't always available and keep in mind as well, for every fuse, it does mean running another wire. 1 or 2 wires on their own don't add up to much space but when you start getting up around 8 or 12, it does and needs some planning on how to run these wires.

 

The other aspect of how many circuits also comes down to what style of fuse you'd like to use and what's commercially available. It's a wise idea to stick with the same fuses that are already in the car or convert that fuse block to a type you'd rather have.

 

I nearly always run the Blade type fuses these days as they take up way less space, readily available and highly reliable as well as sealed fused boxes being available in configurations from about 4 to 12 fuses.

 

Coming back to the feeds for the circuits, an item like your clock needs to be live all the time, yet the Temperature Gauge you'll only want coming on with the Engine, so this might give you a guide as to how to split them up. USB sockets, I tend now to run from the Accessories, though if you are thinking of having them Live all the time, I'd suggest finding those without an LED in them.

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#16 ChrisDowning

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Posted 04 November 2019 - 07:27 PM

Unfortunately that isn’t the only issue. There’s probably (almost definitely) loads of wires all wrapped up in the loom which aren’t connected one end of the other. There’s additional wires, repairs, dodgy splices, worn wires, wires covered in paint, brittle wiring etc etc etc.

I’ve safely repaired what I can for now. I’ve added in new circuits for the extras (done properly and all labelled too.

Will replace the loom in the spring.

Thanks for all the advice everyone! Really appreciated!

Photos of what’s done so far. Bear in mind that I’m not an auto sparky and this is my first attempt at anything like this lol

Managed to get the dash in earlier and tomorrow will be wiring day ?

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#17 KTS

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Posted 04 November 2019 - 08:14 PM

i'd say that's a pretty good first attempt  :-)



#18 jonsharman

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Posted 04 November 2019 - 08:40 PM

Looking Good! ??

#19 ChrisDowning

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Posted 04 November 2019 - 10:12 PM

So I’m getting there. Really appreciate all of the spot on advice as I’ve been doing this.

You lot are great and your help is very much appreciated.

First ever time I’ve done something like this, especially electrical....... I just thought everything worked by magic previously ! ??

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#20 KTS

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Posted 04 November 2019 - 10:37 PM

the only thing i would say is that if that's insulating tape you've used to bundle the wires together, replace it with spiral wrap or loom tape for a long term solution as the tape will leave glue all over the loom if you ever need to unpick it  



#21 Spider

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 04:14 AM

the only thing i would say is that if that's insulating tape you've used to bundle the wires together, replace it with spiral wrap or loom tape for a long term solution as the tape will leave glue all over the loom if you ever need to unpick it  

 

I gotta say, I don;t like Spiro Wrap or the Slit Conduits. They are OK in some applications but they are rather bulky.

 

I Like Loom Tape for most stuff, it's a PVC Non-adhesive Tape, you can get some stretch in it and looks neat at junction (if done right!).



#22 Mini Manannán

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 06:21 AM

Gotta agree.  This stuff: https://www.altecaut...b-09-1766-p.asp

 

I do like how you've done your dash :-)



#23 ChrisDowning

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 10:33 AM

Thanks guys !!!! Really appreciate your feedback. I’ve used loom tape to cover the “loom as it were. The insulation tape I used was to separate the hot live loom and switched feed supply loom whilst I did the install and test.
Once I realised it was all working I used look tape and grommets through the necessary holes to prevent chaffing of the wiring.

to be honest I’m really pleased with the dash and how it looks. Like I said it’s the first time I’ve done something like this and it’s been fun.... not that I want to get another and do it straight away lol

Have to say the covering of the upper and lower dash with real leather was painfully fiddley but the leathers great quality. The dash from custom consoles looks good, it needed the felt needed around the edge but I got a roll of that from my dutch mates at TLCC.

Now it’s on to replacing inner and outer pot joints because of a massive leak..... but have to wait for my mate to make me a removal tool a little later on.

So now it’s time to get oily :)

#24 cal844

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 10:52 AM

Thanks guys !!!! Really appreciate your feedback. I’ve used loom tape to cover the “loom as it were. The insulation tape I used was to separate the hot live loom and switched feed supply loom whilst I did the install and test.
Once I realised it was all working I used look tape and grommets through the necessary holes to prevent chaffing of the wiring.

to be honest I’m really pleased with the dash and how it looks. Like I said it’s the first time I’ve done something like this and it’s been fun.... not that I want to get another and do it straight away lol

Have to say the covering of the upper and lower dash with real leather was painfully fiddley but the leathers great quality. The dash from custom consoles looks good, it needed the felt needed around the edge but I got a roll of that from my dutch mates at TLCC.

Now it’s on to replacing inner and outer pot joints because of a massive leak..... but have to wait for my mate to make me a removal tool a little later on.

So now it’s time to get oily :)


To do the pot joints you really only need a pry bar of some kind. Then iirc it should just be a case of replacing the seals. You might get away with not having to split the pot joints from the shafts.

#25 ChrisDowning

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Posted 06 November 2019 - 04:51 PM

I’m going to replace inner pot joints and outer CV joints. I’ve already bought them.

I’m told that you can’t “pry” the joints off for fear of breaking the diff cover housing as it’s fairly flimsy.

There’s a bolt in that housing which is the only place you can safely “pry” or “wedge” off.
I certainly don’t want to go the way of replacing diff housings....... I don’t even want to disturb the bearings on the end if I don’t have to.

Hopefully I can remove both shafts, replace the drive shaft / diff seals and pop the prebuilt joints on and bobs your uncle.
The ball joints etc all look brand fire new and it’s all been poly bushed already too. Saves me a job!




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