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#1 creakyjaws5533

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:16 AM

Car: 1985 Mini Mayfair 998 A+ converted to run a non ballast coil (12v) and using CSI electronic distributor

Work Carried out:

Timing has been set as per the CSI instructions at 10 Deg BTDC this has been fitted for nearly a year with no issues but I have checked the timing since and it is fine
The mixture has been set with a Gunson Colortune and gives a nice blue at idle
The choke moves freely and engages when the cable to pulled
Dash pot oil is topped up with 20w50
The vacuum hose for the advance is fine and has not breaks or holes
Valves have been set at 0.012 Thou when cold (Left over night)
The starter spins freely and turns the engine over quickly
The plugs are wet after cranking
Rotor arm has been cleaned with sandpaper
New parts fitted (last 2 months or so):

Bosch Blue Coil
NGK BP6es Spark Plug (set to 45 Thou Gap)
Additional Engine Earth Strap
New 70A alternator
New Varta 075 Battery
New Lucas Dizzy Cap

The issue:

It started a about 5-6 weeks ago she wouldn’t start at all unless bump started in 2nd gear, that worked for about a week or so then stopped working, so I replaced the Coil, Plugs and fitted an additional earth strap which seemed to cure the issues temporary, about 4 weeks or starting 95% on the first try so though the problem had gone away, but it started playing up again, was very slow to start as in it took maybe 2-3 minutes of trying to start before it would go and then eventually stopped altogether, so I didn’t some diagnostics and the spark plugs weren’t sparking on cylinders 2-3-4 so I replaced them with some new BP6ES set to 45 Thou again the car started first time and did for the next few days but then after leaving work she wouldn’t started again, I tried starting so much the starter locked up, so I rang the RAC and he came out I tried explaining it wasn’t a starter issue even though it was locked but he didn’t really listen, after freeing the starter he tried to start it and it wouldn’t go, so he hooked it up to his van and let it charge for a bit and then after cranking for a while she went again, so I though as the battery was quite old it could be the battery, so I replaced the battery and alternator with the above items and she started fine for a couple of days but now again she takes 2-3 minutes before she goes, when she does go she is lumpy until the plugs clear due to flooding I imagine, is there anything really silly I maybe missing it’s doing my head in and I don’t want to get stranded at work again any help would be much appreciated

The car drives absolutely fine once she has started and has no misfires or issues at all

Edited by creakyjaws5533, 05 November 2019 - 07:18 AM.


#2 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:28 AM

Have you carried out a compression test to check for problems with the valves or head gasket?  Always worth eliminating basic mechanical problems first.



#3 creakyjaws5533

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:32 AM

Have you carried out a compression test to check for problems with the valves or head gasket?  Always worth eliminating basic mechanical problems first.


That’s a good shout I’ll carry out a compression test when I get back from work this evening

#4 mercenary62

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 08:10 AM

probably a fault with the electronic distributor, I had issues with the module in mine being faulty



#5 gazza82

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 08:46 AM

45 thou seems wide!



#6 creakyjaws5533

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 09:10 AM

probably a fault with the electronic distributor, I had issues with the module in mine being faulty


Owh really? I hope not how did you go about testing yours?

#7 creakyjaws5533

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 09:11 AM

45 thou seems wide!


I read somewhere between 40-50 thou with electronic ignition but that might be wrong what would be recommended?

#8 cal844

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 11:03 AM

I usually run the plugs at whatever gap they are out the box (NGK BPR6ES),
recommended gap is 25 thou for points dizzy 32 thou for elecronic dizzy.

A friend had a CSI dizzy, we set the plug gap to 28 thou initially...
Fitted to a pre A+ engine, it failed before the car was on the road(about 6 months whilst we finished rebuilding the rest of the car) so the company replaced it... eventually we gave up and converted to an electronic kit (iirc it cost £30) and it's never missed a beat since.


My advice is to reset the plug gap to 30 thou then see how the car performs. I'd then check that your earths are clean and also that you have an earth strap fitted.

Hope this helps and excuse the ramblings

Cal

Edited by cal844, 05 November 2019 - 11:09 AM.


#9 creakyjaws5533

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 11:18 AM

I usually run the plugs at whatever gap they are out the box (NGK BPR6ES),
recommended gap is 25 thou for points dizzy 32 thou for elecronic dizzy.

A friend had a CSI dizzy, we set the plug gap to 28 thou initially...
Fitted to a pre A+ engine, it failed before the car was on the road(about 6 months whilst we finished rebuilding the rest of the car) so the company replaced it... eventually we gave up and converted to an electronic kit (iirc it cost £30) and it's never missed a beat since.


My advice is to reset the plug gap to 30 thou then see how the car performs. I'd then check that your earths are clean and also that you have an earth strap fitted.

Hope this helps and excuse the ramblings

Cal


Ah that’s not good news then if a couple have failed on people, I’ll reset the gaps to 30 thou when I do the compression test later, I’ve got two Earth straps fitted in the engine bay both cleaned up about a month ago and new straps fitted but I will check the contact surfaces again

#10 cal844

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 12:27 PM

I usually run the plugs at whatever gap they are out the box (NGK BPR6ES),
recommended gap is 25 thou for points dizzy 32 thou for elecronic dizzy.

A friend had a CSI dizzy, we set the plug gap to 28 thou initially...
Fitted to a pre A+ engine, it failed before the car was on the road(about 6 months whilst we finished rebuilding the rest of the car) so the company replaced it... eventually we gave up and converted to an electronic kit (iirc it cost £30) and it's never missed a beat since.


My advice is to reset the plug gap to 30 thou then see how the car performs. I'd then check that your earths are clean and also that you have an earth strap fitted.

Hope this helps and excuse the ramblings

Cal

Ah that’s not good news then if a couple have failed on people, I’ll reset the gaps to 30 thou when I do the compression test later, I’ve got two Earth straps fitted in the engine bay both cleaned up about a month ago and new straps fitted but I will check the contact surfaces again

I know it's not good, yours may be different but I thought I'd mention it anyway. I'd say to keep going with trying to get it working as you need

#11 creakyjaws5533

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:11 PM

Reset the spark plugs to 32thou, but more worryingly did a compression test and the results are

C1 - 165psi
C2 - 150psi
C3 - 145psi
C4 - 155Psi

#12 mercenary62

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:17 PM

Reset the spark plugs to 32thou, but more worryingly did a compression test and the results are

C1 - 165psi
C2 - 150psi
C3 - 145psi
C4 - 155Psi

compression aint too bad , I removed the module and refitted ,another electronic ignition setup , cant remember which , you running mechanical fuel pump it may be its had its day , take the pipe off the carb and stick it in a jamjar then get someone to crank it over , don't forget to remove the ht lead though or it may fire up



#13 creakyjaws5533

creakyjaws5533

    My jaw needs oiling. Where's the WD40??

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:22 PM

Reset the spark plugs to 32thou, but more worryingly did a compression test and the results are

C1 - 165psi
C2 - 150psi
C3 - 145psi
C4 - 155Psi

compression aint too bad , I removed the module and refitted ,another electronic ignition setup , cant remember which , you running mechanical fuel pump it may be its had its day , take the pipe off the carb and stick it in a jamjar then get someone to crank it over , don't forget to remove the ht lead though or it may fire up

Oh really? Thank god was worried it was going to need the head taking off, ah okay I might have to see if anyone local has a spare dizzy I can borrow to test, the fuel pump is about 3-4 years old but only fitted 18 months ago when I bought the car but I will test to check

#14 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 10:24 PM

Reset the spark plugs to 32thou, but more worryingly did a compression test and the results are

C1 - 165psi
C2 - 150psi
C3 - 145psi
C4 - 155Psi

Yes those figures aren't too bad,  now you can look elsewhere.  Does it work better with the plug gaps reduced?



#15 mercenary62

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 10:46 PM

 

 

Reset the spark plugs to 32thou, but more worryingly did a compression test and the results are

C1 - 165psi
C2 - 150psi
C3 - 145psi
C4 - 155Psi

compression aint too bad , I removed the module and refitted ,another electronic ignition setup , cant remember which , you running mechanical fuel pump it may be its had its day , take the pipe off the carb and stick it in a jamjar then get someone to crank it over , don't forget to remove the ht lead though or it may fire up

Oh really? Thank god was worried it was going to need the head taking off, ah okay I might have to see if anyone local has a spare dizzy I can borrow to test, the fuel pump is about 3-4 years old but only fitted 18 months ago when I bought the car but I will test to check

 

 

id try a spare dizzy first  ,itl probably fire straight up with a replacement dizzy  and timing set correctly






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