70 replies to this topic

[gazza82]

Just re-read you first post ... you don't clean rotor arms with sandpaper ... you can open up the gap too much .. rub it on the tyre or very, very fine wet&dry. Also some new dizzy parts are poor quality. I know people in my car club where the new rotor arm has fallen apart in the dizzy!

Edited by gazza82, 16 November 2019 - 10:06 AM.

[creakyjaws5533]

Just re-read you first post ... you don't clean rotor arms with sandpaper ... you can open up the gap too much .. rub it on the tyre or very, very fine wet&dry. Also some new dizzy parts are poor quality. I know people in my car club where the new rotor arm has fallen apart in the dizzy!

Ah sorry should have clarified with the sandpaper, it was some 1400 grit wet and dry I just ran it over the surface the ones to clean it up a little bit but wasn’t exactly dirty, the rotor arm itself looks ok I’ve always tried to replace parts with the highest quality I can get

[cal844]

I gently clean mine with a 320 grade disc, it does the job...

[creakyjaws5533]

Gone out today and the car now just clicks the once on turn over, had that happen before when I first got the car and replaced the solenoid so maybe that was slowly failing I’m not sure, also took the carb off to check it and found the two of the gaskets were split so that might have been affecting the cold start anyway ordered the bit so will update next week when the parts arrive, in winter is it better to run the carb with thinner oil in? Currently got 20w50 in

Edited by creakyjaws5533, 17 November 2019 - 10:19 AM.

[cal844]

The 20/50 will be ok

[creakyjaws5533]

So the parts arrived today, fitted the new solenoid the old one was rather rusty and the so were the terminals, fitted an extra earth strap and cleaned again all the existing ones, then fitted new carb gaskets and got ready to start it, again all I got was a click, so took the starter motor off and it was very stiff and didn’t return properly, so cleaned it up and put it back in and nothing still, then jumped the solenoid from the battery and it still wouldn’t spin so am I right I thinking the start is dead? Not sure if that is causing the original issue or just adding to the list of parts

[RustyAutoCityE]

A few months back my '88 Fiesta was just making a single click when I tried to start it. After charging/changing the battery and pulling the starter, it turned out that the main battery to starter power cable had corroded internally causing resistance. Changed it out for a new one and it started right up.

Might be worth a check with a meter to make sure your cable is still good?

[creakyjaws5533]

Checked the battery cable all seemed good bench tested the start and still nothing so ordered a replacement which i fitted today and she started again hopefully it was a mix of that and the carb gaskets fingers crossed

[creakyjaws5533]

Well still nothing fitted a new starter and it now doesn’t click anymore but still struggling to start going to have to find a classics garage and send it then I think as I’m really at a loss as to why it won’t start. It was fine all weekend started first time everytimd but then yesterday just wouldn’t start at all

[cal844]

Battery down a cell, get it load tested

[creakyjaws5533]

Battery down a cell, get it load tested

I don’t think it’s the battery as it has plenty of juice to crank the starter but worth testing how would I load test just a multimeter over the terminals when cranking?

[cal844]

Battery down a cell, get it load tested

I don’t think it’s the battery as it has plenty of juice to crank the starter but worth testing how would I load test just a multimeter over the terminals when cranking?

You can load it by putting on the lights, then try to start the engine, if they dim or go off completely you have an issue somewhere. (Measure the voltage across the battery)


Then start the engine (if you can) then once settled at idle put the lights on first (check voltage at battery)

Then heater or rear demister (check voltage again) the voltage shouldn't change

Hope this helps

Cal

[creakyjaws5533]

Battery down a cell, get it load tested

I don’t think it’s the battery as it has plenty of juice to crank the starter but worth testing how would I load test just a multimeter over the terminals when cranking?

You can load it by putting on the lights, then try to start the engine, if they dim or go off completely you have an issue somewhere. (Measure the voltage across the battery)


Then start the engine (if you can) then once settled at idle put the lights on first (check voltage at battery)

Then heater or rear demister (check voltage again) the voltage shouldn't change

Hope this helps

Cal

So I did the test with lights on as I cranked and they dimmed ever so slightly but I mean hardly anything, then did a check on spark plugs all 4 producing a really healthy spark on all 4 leads, then though I’d do a compression test again for sanity and results are
Cylinder 1 175psi
Cylinder 2 150psi
Cylinder 3 125 psi
Cylinder 4 160 psi
Not sure how cylinder one has gone up that much but looks like the head gasket might have gone again? Would that stop the car starting? The test was done with all 4 plugs out an the throttle open

[cal844]

The middle 2 compression figures are low which suggests an issue, I dont think that the figures point towards a head gasket issue though, so could be a valve or ring issue?

[creakyjaws5533]

The middle 2 compression figures are low which suggests an issue, I dont think that the figures point towards a head gasket issue though, so could be a valve or ring issue?

Ah that’ll be a right pain then, I guess the test for rings is oil in the bore before the compression test? Anyway to test the valves?