27 replies to this topic

[dangreen]

You'll end up getting beached
I think raising the ride hight a little would be the way to go or see if you can tuck the exhaust up a little higher

Haha ok. I think since it's supposed to be easy to change the ride height with hi-lo's I could probably set it to as high as possible until I finish college next June. Then I can just set it to a bit more normal height once I've finished and don't have to go over that speed bump anymore.
Not sure how I'd tuck the exhaust up any higher. Is there usually a little extra room where moving the bracket/fabricating a new one could improve clearance?

[panky]

It's worth a look, you would have to compromise with being too close to the body causing it to knock on the floor and clearing the speed bumps. The other thing to consider is the condition of the dougnuts on the car, if they are old and compressed then a new set could give you the clearance you need.

[dangreen]

It's worth a look, you would have to compromise with being too close to the body causing it to knock on the floor and clearing the speed bumps. The other thing to consider is the condition of the dougnuts on the car, if they are old and compressed then a new set could give you the clearance you need.

Right. Might try just raising the ride height a little before moving the exhaust. I wonder if I did tuck it up against the bodywork if I wrapped it first it would help with noise and heat? I'm considering a stage 1 tuning kit so the exhaust would be coming off anyway for that I suspect.
I'll definitely check the cones when I get the chance.

[MiniMadRacer]

Usually the scraping would be the exhaust as the lowest point and prob not the G Box. As Nick has stated fitting a sump guard will move the item lower to the ground so even more scraping is the end result. Prob not relevant but racing I found the Sump guards never long enough to protect the linkage so I always bolted on an extension piece of metal to the Scottish type guard to protect the linkage a bit.

[panky]

If you've alrady got Hi-Lows fitted then that's the way to go. If not check the distance to the bump stops. The doughnuts on my car were that knackered I was riding on the bump stops - the ride was a bit firm

[Alice Dooper]

I’ve one fitted and it’s a reasonable job.  Our car is an MPI sitting at normal height and all the clearances are fine.  I’ve ground it out the odd time but better it than the sump.

 

i had to drill 4 holes in the subframe and if / when I remove it I’ll weld some captive nuts on.  I did cut a small amount out of the guard  to let the sump drain past is at oil change time. 
 

[dangreen]

Usually the scraping would be the exhaust as the lowest point and prob not the G Box. As Nick has stated fitting a sump guard will move the item lower to the ground so even more scraping is the end result. Prob not relevant but racing I found the Sump guards never long enough to protect the linkage so I always bolted on an extension piece of metal to the Scottish type guard to protect the linkage a bit.

Thanks, Yeah, think the sumpguard will be for a bit of protection and looks. I plan to raise the ride height before fitting one to mitigate the extra bulk underneath but obviously this will require hi-lo's.

Think I've seen one like you describe for racing on Minispares website. I won't be doing any racing though. It's only an 850 and I have enough fun out on b-roads, very rarely reaching the speed limit so have no need for a track day for it haha.

[dangreen]

If you've alrady got Hi-Lows fitted then that's the way to go. If not check the distance to the bump stops. The doughnuts on my car were that knackered I was riding on the bump stops - the ride was a bit firm

Not yet but I plan to fit a kit this winter. I've not checked mine yet but it does feel fairly bouncy to me. I'll check them when I fit the hi-lo's though

[dangreen]

I’ve one fitted and it’s a reasonable job. Our car is an MPI sitting at normal height and all the clearances are fine. I’ve ground it out the odd time but better it than the sump.

i had to drill 4 holes in the subframe and if / when I remove it I’ll weld some captive nuts on. I did cut a small amount out of the guard to let the sump drain past is at oil change time.

Nice. Yeah, that's what it's there for I guess.

Thanks. Is it an innocenti one or a Scottish one? Apparantly the innocenti one allows for oil changes without removing it but not sure if the gearbox/sump is different for the MPI

[Cooperman]

Any sump guard will reduce the ground clearance under the sump by around 1".

Every sump guard will need to be solidly bolted to the front sub-frame and it is very advisable to solidly mount the sub-frame so that the impact loads are transmitted into the bodyshell without the high risk of the standard rubber sub-frame mounts failing.

I use a very special prototype sump guard which has 8 off 3/8" UNF bolts on my 1964 'S'. I have welded the bolts into the front of the sub-frame and nuts adjacent to the lower arm points (strong points). That makes removal for oil changes very easy.

The 'Scottish' guard on my 1990 car also has 8 bolts/nuts.

Both are very strong, although after many rallies both are deeply scored and slightly bent!

[dangreen]

Any sump guard will reduce the ground clearance under the sump by around 1".
Every sump guard will need to be solidly bolted to the front sub-frame and it is very advisable to solidly mount the sub-frame so that the impact loads are transmitted into the bodyshell without the high risk of the standard rubber sub-frame mounts failing.
I use a very special prototype sump guard which has 8 off 3/8" UNF bolts on my 1964 'S'. I have welded the bolts into the front of the sub-frame and nuts adjacent to the lower arm points (strong points). That makes removal for oil changes very easy.
The 'Scottish' guard on my 1990 car also has 8 bolts/nuts.
Both are very strong, although after many rallies both are deeply scored and slightly bent!

Yeah. Seems like it's going to be a compromise I'll have to make.
Ah, that seems like a good idea. I think captive nuts/welding bolts seems the way to go for mounts. Are the subframe mounts susceptible to wear? I'm wondering if its necessary to hard mount it to the body too as I'm only using the car for casual use.
I don't do any rallying so I suspect that the guard should stay in decent shape. It's more for looks and a little protection from British roads.

[Cooperman]

It is always best to solidly mount the front sub-frame. Those rubber mounts were introduced when the target market for the Mini range moved from younger people to middle aged lady drivers.

To get steering response such as the Mini was originally famous for does require solid mounting. With a sump guard fitted, you most certainly do not want to be transferring the impact loads from a sump guard strike with the ground into the rubber mountings.

Unless you are going to be rallying the car, or you live at the end of a farm track, it is not really worth fitting a sump guard.

[dangreen]

It is always best to solidly mount the front sub-frame. Those rubber mounts were introduced when the target market for the Mini range moved from younger people to middle aged lady drivers.
To get steering response such as the Mini was originally famous for does require solid mounting. With a sump guard fitted, you most certainly do not want to be transferring the impact loads from a sump guard strike with the ground into the rubber mountings.
Unless you are going to be rallying the car, or you live at the end of a farm track, it is not really worth fitting a sump guard.

Right. Ok thanks. I might still go for a sump guard for the looks and the occasional track I might end up driving down. I live in a small town surrounded by farms so sometimes end up driving down not particularly well maintained roads.