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1275 A+ (1310) Cooling System Requirements


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#1 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 06:55 PM

Hi;

 

I am reconditioning a 1275 Metro Engine pulled from a 1989 Mk 2 Metro to transplant into my 1982 HLE 1000, the engine thread is in my signature "1275 Metro Engine Project".

The car will be a fast road spec (AC RS Cam, Stage One Kit, Lightened Flywheel, MG Metro Cylinder Head (large valves), HIF44)

 

I am finalising some parts that I need for when I finally get it into the car and need some help with the cooling system. Where I am confused is whether or not I need a Bypass Hose on the water Pump? Which hose set to get (must be blue), what thermostat housing and do I need a sandwich plate under it (the extra aluminium piece), what thermostat, and do I need a heater / heater valve on the cylinder head? I have a heater matrix in the car but it has not been used since I have had the car (about 9 years) for fear of flooding the car?

 

I have set out the parts / queeries below but I guess answers to some will depict answers to some of the others?

 

Radiator - I have been advised to get a 2 Core Radiator and was going to get a Fletcher or possibly a cheaper copy?

 

Heater - Do I need a heater / heater take off / does it improve cooling.

 

Hoses - I am not sure which hose set I will need?

 

Water Pump  - Which pump do I need? Large Cast Impellor? Do I need a Bypass Hose? 

 

Cylinder Head  Do I need a heater take off valve?

 

Thermostat and Thermostat Housing - What thermostat do I need, do I need the extra sandwich plate?

 

 



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 06:59 PM

A copper rad is better.

 

closed car you may have to have a heater to clear the screen.

 

so take off from head to heater back to bottom hose.

 

so no sandwich plate.

 

a mini stat with the bleed valve in it.

 

no bypass needed.



#3 Earwax

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 08:55 PM

Does your head have bypass? (sorry if answered in your other thread) . do a search on here - as lots of views whether to keep or not.

My ideas.

 

If you keep make sure the bypass adaptor is not corroded/seized and use a quality bit of hose ( i don't like the bellows type) and use water pump GWP184 or similar

 

If you delete , make sure the head fitting is blocked well and use a GWP187? water pump  .Also drill a hole through thermostat plate to allow some water to flow until up to temp

You will need to flush the heater matrix at the very least - otherwise you will dump rust and scale inside your new build- i would remove and thoroughly clean and descale the unit- the connections are a likely source of future leak.

a heater valve on cylinder head works fine



#4 cal844

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 09:29 PM

The thermostat wont need drilled if it has a wiggle pin fitted

#5 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 10:14 PM

Does your head have bypass? (sorry if answered in your other thread) . do a search on here - as lots of views whether to keep or not.

My ideas.

 

If you keep make sure the bypass adaptor is not corroded/seized and use a quality bit of hose ( i don't like the bellows type) and use water pump GWP184 or similar

 

If you delete , make sure the head fitting is blocked well and use a GWP187? water pump  .Also drill a hole through thermostat plate to allow some water to flow until up to temp

You will need to flush the heater matrix at the very least - otherwise you will dump rust and scale inside your new build- i would remove and thoroughly clean and descale the unit- the connections are a likely source of future leak.

a heater valve on cylinder head works fine

 

Here is a pic of the head from when I started to dismantle the engine:

 

MBGm8zh.jpg

 

On this head the take off has not been drilled out and there was a take off pipe on the thermostat housing which probably went to an expansion tank.

I will be fitting this engine into a 1982 HLE 1000 so need to work out how and what I need. 

 

If I decided to keep the heater will I need to get the take off at the head drilled out or do I get a sandwhich plate with a take off and run that to the heater, but how would I turn it on and off?



#6 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 10:16 PM

Just found another pic, the sandwich plate did have a take off:

 

wAQLtrz.jpg



#7 alex-95

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 10:33 PM

You'd have to get an inline tap like the later SPI and MPI's had(or any other inline tap) if you want to keep the heat usable and can be handy to have to help cool the engine down sometimes. 



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 11:34 PM

Drill the takeoff out. It is simple. Like I said don’t bother with the sandwich plate.

 

plumb up as an early mini.



#9 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 07:17 PM

Drill the takeoff out. It is simple. Like I said don’t bother with the sandwich plate.

 

plumb up as an early mini.

 

Sorry being a bit thick here.

 

I can't find a diagram of the entire cooling system for an early mini, although I guess I could look at my 1982 998 sitting in the garage or pop out and get my Haynes or Workshop manual but its cold :-)

 

If I drill out the cylinder head take off and fit a heater valve then the pipe from here runs to the heater? 

 

Although I am getting a Stage One Kit which comes with a heated manifold so does the pipe from the take off valve at the cyl head run to one side of the manifold and then from the other side to the heater? 

Will I need a bypass on the water pump? If so where does this connect to?



#10 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 06:25 PM

Can anyone update me on the questions above?



#11 luismx123

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 06:57 PM

 

Drill the takeoff out. It is simple. Like I said don’t bother with the sandwich plate.

 

plumb up as an early mini.

 

Sorry being a bit thick here.

 

I can't find a diagram of the entire cooling system for an early mini, although I guess I could look at my 1982 998 sitting in the garage or pop out and get my Haynes or Workshop manual but its cold :-)

 

If I drill out the cylinder head take off and fit a heater valve then the pipe from here runs to the heater? 

 

Although I am getting a Stage One Kit which comes with a heated manifold so does the pipe from the take off valve at the cyl head run to one side of the manifold and then from the other side to the heater? 

Will I need a bypass on the water pump? If so where does this connect to?

 

 

ill try ma best!
and this is just how i have it plumbed, but it should be correct as no one has ever said its wrong.

cylinder head take off valve -> inlet manifold -> heater matrix in car ->heater matrix -> the weird looking 3 joint pipe -> bottom of 3 joint pipe -> pump / bottom of radiator ->top of radiator

hope this helps!



#12 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 10:09 PM

Sorry I’m gonna need a pic 😂😂

So I need a hose from the heater take off at the cylinder head going to the inlet manifold, then from the other side of the inlet manifold into the cars heater matrix. Then out of the heater matrix into the three way pipe that goes from the bottom of the radiator and into the water pump.
Then another hose from the top of the radiator into the thermostat housing.

So the manifold will only get heated water if the heater is switched on?

If I do without the heater I could fit a non valve take off onto the top of the cycl head and have water running through the manifold constantly?

#13 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 10:13 PM

This kit should do the trick? http://www.minispare...|Back to search

#14 nicklouse

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 01:31 AM

Don’t bother with plumbing in the manifold. Just from head to heater matrix. Matrix to bottom hose. You will need a connector.



#15 luismx123

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 09:04 AM

@jonny yes that kit works. all u need
and your description is correct. depends if you want the inlet heated or not. my car is my daily so now in cold months it's nice to have the heated manifold. my mini had trouble at the beginning of the year when it wasn't plumbed and i Had to wait quite a while for everything to warm up properly... but you could use a valve off the cylinder head to allow/stop water going into the inlet manifold, and you could also remove the inside heater matrix and go from cylinder head to inlet to 3-way pipe or cylinder head to 3-way pipe and bypass the whole heater matrix. apologies for the bad format, phone format not so friendly 🤓




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