11 replies to this topic

[plumbo1]

Hi all, I need some help (again) I have a 1974 mk3 1000 that was a complete rust bucket nearly done bodywork floor boot roof etc  I've now taken engine apart and found no1 cylinder has bad pitting took to have a rebore and they found a hole in no3 bore so needs reline, they couldn't do anything with the head as it was to far gone so brought one of eBay that was supposed to be a 998 A series but the only marks I can find are cam4810, 20A1, Z, and a B can any body help identify this head and can I fit this straight on the block without any mods, Cheers     

[whistler]

Standard 998 head, later variety. Might be cheaper to dump the block and find a better one.

[plumbo1]

thanks whistler, i triedto find a block but mines a auto and the manual block does'nt fit i found a A+ block but even that was a lot different so I've had the block done £320, Cheers

[Miki Leyland]

cam4810

 

That's the standard head used in 998 A+ Minis. Could be leaded or unleaded depending on production year, if I'm correct.

Edited by Miki Leyland, 04 December 2019 - 07:31 PM.

[cal844]

cam4810

That's the standard head used in 998 A+ Minis. Could be leaded or unleaded depending on production year, if I'm correct.

You are indeed correct, the only way to check is to remove valves

[MiniMadRacer]

I must admit I have used "leaded" heads with no adverse valve seat issues. Possibly because the heads are old and have a "lead memory"  or due to the fact that I do not rev the granny out it constantly (road car) and I do not do a humungous amount of mileage. I have never worried on a road car whether a head is leaded or unleaded, and I may have been lucky but I have had no issues

[whistler]

thanks whistler, i triedto find a block but mines a auto and the manual block does'nt fit i found a A+ block but even that was a lot different so I've had the block done £320, Cheers

Just for information, the crank, rods and pistons are the same as a manual.

[plumbo1]

wish i had known that it would have saved me a lot of cash I still got to bye pistons the one that were in the block are well knacked, I was told that the crankhousing and the depth of the oil pump was allso different, Is it all right to use the A+ cylinder head on my A series block or is there any thing I should do to it before I fit it

[gazza82]

Is it all right to use the A+ cylinder head on my A series block or is there any thing I should do to it before I fit it

 

Straight swap .. but might be worth checking it is flat using a straight-edge/steel rule

[plumbo1]

Cheers gazza that's great will update as soon as engine reassembled   

[plumbo1]

Hi all back in action after a bit of a layoff, most of engine back together but hit another problem put the primary gear back and noticed that front bush was cracked tried to get a new bush but no luck can get 1275 bush but not 1000 automatic one, i have found a new old stock primary gear with 27 teeth but mine has 29 can i change them over he also has the 2 other gears for sale, 

[whistler]

Hi all back in action after a bit of a layoff, most of engine back together but hit another problem put the primary gear back and noticed that front bush was cracked tried to get a new bush but no luck can get 1275 bush but not 1000 automatic one, i have found a new old stock primary gear with 27 teeth but mine has 29 can i change them over he also has the 2 other gears for sale, 

I have a set of 3. Primary gear has 33t, bush diameter is 1.5" and idler pin is 0.875" diameter. I can put pictures up if you want. Came out of a 998 auto clubman 1972/3. Also have the locating deep washer for flywheel/torque converter bolt.

 

If you'd rather have your primary gear rebushed try John Guess or AC Dodd. Both have experience with primary gear bushes.

Edited by whistler, 14 June 2020 - 09:21 AM.