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Correct Method Of Torquing Nuts / Bolts


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#1 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 06:25 PM

Hi;

 

I apologise if this is posted elsewhere but, Just about to start the installation of a CrankShaft in an Engine Build and wondered what was the correct way to Torque up bolts.

I have seen various methods, but just watching the Bill Sollis Ultimate Mini Engine DVD and when he installs the Pistons he Torques up the Big End Caps, undoes them and Re Torques them, he does this three times?

 

I have already had the Big Ends on and Off numerous times doing the Trial Build Etc and need to do it one more time to check bearing clearances with Plasti Gauge.

 

Incidentally als what is the best method of checking a Torque Wrench, mine is about 4 years old and I'd like to know its spot on before I use it for this Engine Build?

 

 



#2 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 06:52 PM

In answer to your last question:  to ensure your toraue wrench is accurate you'll need to have it recalibrated by a company which offers such services.  Not the easiest thing to find out about but they do exist. 

 

At four years old if it had a certificate of calibration when you acquired it, has been looked after and only had light use you should be fine.

 

Always turn down to the minimum torque setting when not in use and don't throw them around or use them as hammers etc.

 

If I remember correctly calibration ensures they are within 3% of what they are set to.



#3 sonikk4

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 09:33 PM

Also any torque wrench once used, you should wind off the torque setting back to 0.

Even dropping the wrench can affect the calibration so treat them the way you would like to be treated.

#4 Earwax

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 10:30 PM

ARP have introduced an ultra torque assembly lube which they say only requires one iteration of torquing  ( eg 1 iteration =20 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and finally 42 ft lbs) as opposed to 3 full torquing cycles as seen in the Bill Sollis video. They do this as they have tested for far greater consistency in overcoming all the "friction variables' involved in the torquing.   If you use any other lube then the full 3 step process is the best way to overcome those same 'friction variables ( presuming torque wrench method is used not stretch). Having said that - the 3 step process is still a good method for reliablity .

 

For conrod bolts, hand turn in and out each one to ensure you feel full freedom of the bolt/thread- if you encounter any sticking point or extra drag then stop at that point until you rectify- i think the video may even have encountered one like that.

 

Regarding your trial builds - in my book they don't count as torque cycles as you probably didn't use lube and/or they have come out of situ -    so in my books have potentially lost the consistency factor that is required in torquing them up .



#5 jime17

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Posted 06 December 2019 - 11:02 AM

You can check a torque wrench accuracy using a vice, tape measure, a known weight and maths. By clamping the drive in the vice and hanging the weight from the handle you can see if its out of calibration.

Ie. Set it to 20lb/ft. Hang a 20lb weight from the handle 1ft from the centre of the drive and in theory it should click. If you need to move it away from the drive to make it click then it's under reading and vice versa. The distance you need to move it can be used to calculate how far it is out. Granted you'd need to do this with lots of differing weights to check across the range but or change the distances along the handle or a combination of both. It might not be as accurate as a proffesional calibration service but would be an indication of accuracy .

Good for your maths skills too :-)

Google it. It will explain it better than me and also show you the maths you need to employ.

#6 SolarB

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Posted 06 December 2019 - 03:56 PM

Calibrated mine a while ago with a bucket and kept adding water 1 litre at a time. It was out by about 20% at maximum torque (mind you it is 30 years old).



#7 Magneto

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Posted 06 December 2019 - 08:07 PM

Over here you can buy an electronic tester for about $30....you clamp it in the vise, put your torque wrench on set to say 50, then pull till it clicks - it should click at the same reading on the gauge. I check mine only at the numbers I use frequently - 45-50 for wheel nuts and head bolts, and 100 for the lug bolts on my MINI. It's usually really close and I leave it alone, if it's more than a couple out I adjust it and retest till it's right.



#8 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 07 December 2019 - 03:50 PM

You can check a torque wrench accuracy using a vice, tape measure, a known weight and maths. By clamping the drive in the vice and hanging the weight from the handle you can see if its out of calibration.

Ie. Set it to 20lb/ft. Hang a 20lb weight from the handle 1ft from the centre of the drive and in theory it should click. If you need to move it away from the drive to make it click then it's under reading and vice versa. The distance you need to move it can be used to calculate how far it is out. Granted you'd need to do this with lots of differing weights to check across the range but or change the distances along the handle or a combination of both. It might not be as accurate as a proffesional calibration service but would be an indication of accuracy .

Good for your maths skills too :-)

Google it. It will explain it better than me and also show you the maths you need to employ.

 

Calibrated mine a while ago with a bucket and kept adding water 1 litre at a time. It was out by about 20% at maximum torque (mind you it is 30 years old).

 

Found this excellent guide and I like the water idea, problem is I only have a set of hanging scales to weigh the water and they are probably out of calibration :-)

 

Hang on, somewhere in the garage are then remnants of a set of weights - only a dumbell left but its got about 10kg on it! Might need to pop to the gym (to borrow some weights).



#9 nicklouse

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Posted 07 December 2019 - 04:00 PM

You don’t need to weigh the water. You just need the volume.  One liter of water exerts a force of..... google is your friend.



#10 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 09 December 2019 - 05:15 PM

ARP have introduced an ultra torque assembly lube which they say only requires one iteration of torquing  ( eg 1 iteration =20 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and finally 42 ft lbs) as opposed to 3 full torquing cycles as seen in the Bill Sollis video. They do this as they have tested for far greater consistency in overcoming all the "friction variables' involved in the torquing.   If you use any other lube then the full 3 step process is the best way to overcome those same 'friction variables ( presuming torque wrench method is used not stretch). Having said that - the 3 step process is still a good method for reliablity .

 

For conrod bolts, hand turn in and out each one to ensure you feel full freedom of the bolt/thread- if you encounter any sticking point or extra drag then stop at that point until you rectify- i think the video may even have encountered one like that.

 

Regarding your trial builds - in my book they don't count as torque cycles as you probably didn't use lube and/or they have come out of situ -    so in my books have potentially lost the consistency factor that is required in torquing them up .

 

Just to confirm, I am using ARP lube and in the method you suggest "( eg 1 iteration =20 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and finally 42 ft lbs)" do you need to fully indo between each poundage or do you mean torque to 20ft/lb then with undoing the nut, torque to 30ft/lb and the again up to 42ft/lb, assuming that 42ft/lb is the final figure?



#11 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 09 December 2019 - 05:16 PM

You don’t need to weigh the water. You just need the volume.  One liter of water exerts a force of..... google is your friend.

 

Ah but of course. unless of course I use a lead bucket :-)



#12 Earwax

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Posted 09 December 2019 - 07:16 PM

Hi Johnny Alpha

 

regarding torquing up bolts.  On a cylinder head in a radiating manner you would do all studs to the first setting then change setting up and do a second round etc.  On conrods you only have two bolts - the idea being you bring both sides down together rather than all one side then the other. i place the bottom of the conrod on and wiggle to get a press fit- i use a tap with a  small nylon hammer to ensure it is seated exactly right before the bolts go in ( Caution used)

 

here is the ARP link to a set of instructions for one kit 206 6001    ( check if this is your kit before using these values)  so for 55 ft lbs - i would prob do finger tight/ 40 lbs / 55 lbs - but again don't forget to feel the movement -- if anything feels untoward Don't force it - back off and rectify and go again https://cdn2.arp-bol...ns/206-6001.pdf



#13 croc7

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Posted 16 December 2019 - 02:22 AM

Also any torque wrench once used, you should wind off the torque setting back to 0.

Even dropping the wrench can affect the calibration so treat them the way you would like to be treated.



#14 croc7

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Posted 16 December 2019 - 02:31 AM

From the ‘For what its worth department’ the Boeing Company requires their torque wrenches to be set at 20% of max when not in use. Something about keeping tension on the interior spring. Good enough for me.

Edited by croc7, 16 December 2019 - 02:39 AM.


#15 nicklouse

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Posted 16 December 2019 - 08:46 AM

From the ‘For what its worth department’ the Boeing Company requires their torque wrenches to be set at 20% of max when not in use. Something about keeping tension on the interior spring. Good enough for me.

Which is why one should all ways read the user manual.






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