20 replies to this topic

[unfixable_mini]

Hello,

 

Posting here because i'm at a complete lose. Hope that someone can help.

 

I have a 1987 Park Lane. Unleaded 998cc. It's also black, if that helps.

 

I have checked the ignition system and it seems to work fine. This one doesn't have the contact breakers and each spark plug is sparking when the engine turns over. Fuel is good and new. Air intake to carburettor is fine. Battery is obviously good. I really don't want to dismantle the carburettor as I wouldn't know what I'm looking for anyway. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

Thanks

[andyapanel]

Try sticking your fingers down the throat of the carb and seeing if you can lift the dashpot piston.

That was my very first mini no-go situation.

If it is stuck or moves reluctantly, take it out and clean it.

Good luck

[MiniMadRacer]

How does it perform on trying to start with and without the choke and with and without you partially pressing the accelerator?

[sonscar]

Does it stop when you release the key from the cranking position?Steve..

[phil hill]

If it fires when cranking but stops as soon as you release the key from crank check that the coil has power with the ignition on.

 

Phil.

[NikOett]

As Phil has said, check that both of the wires on the positive side of the coil are good (assuming you have a ballast setup). I had this issue where the 12V white/yellow wire was ok (which is live at cranking) but there was a break in the 9V pink ballast wire (live at key position 2) which meant that when the key returned to position 2 it died. If found this issue at the side of the road in the dark which helpfully made the broken wire visibly spark a little at the break at the spade connector.

 

(Edited as I got the wires the wrong way round!)

Edited by NikOett, 20 December 2019 - 09:43 AM.

[unfixable_mini]

How does it perform on trying to start with and without the choke and with and without you partially pressing the accelerator?

 

It doesn't seem to make any difference. I am starting from cold so normally apply choke.

[unfixable_mini]

Does it stop when you release the key from the cranking position?Steve..

 

It will usually run for a few seconds then cut out after releasing the key. A lot of the time when it's turning over it sounds like its on the verge of starting, almost as if the engine is running then cuts when I release.

[MiniMadRacer]

Ok, if the choke makes no difference it is likely to be electrical so as the other guys above have said, check the connections at the coil, ideally check for voltage at the coil with the key in position 2. That's the position where the panel light are on but you are not cranking the engine

[cal844]

Temporarily splice a 12 volt supply from the fuse box to the coil, if the car starts and runs then you'll need to replace the positive wire

[Ethel]

Your car's the right age to have ballasted ignition, as Phil & Nik suggest.

 

Look for a pink/white and a yellow/white wire on the +ve side of the coil or sharing a spade terminal on the starter motor/solenoid. Pink's the ignition supply, Yellow is only live when the starter motor is engaged.

 

Start by cleaning all the connections and inspecting the wires for breaks.

 

Cal beat me to the next step - run a wire from a terminal with a white wire on the fusebox (unfused ignition dependent live) to the +ve on the coil. If that works you need to investigate your coil and/or pink/white ballast wire - don't attempt to drive it, things could overheat & melt!

 

Any markings on the coil such as "ballasted" or a part number?

[unfixable_mini]

Thanks for all the help guys, appreciate it.

 

I have checked and I have a col 202 12VOLT BALLAST coil.

 

I have checked the voltage from the pink/white wire (together) with the ignition on and I do get 12V~. I thought Ballast was supposed to be 9V but I am getting correct voltage.

Do i have to check the wires independently now?

 

I will try and run a wire directly from the fuse box to the coil and start, and will let you know. I hope that's not going to blow all my fuses.

[Ethel]

The voltage is a function of current and resistance (if you remember V=IR from yer skool days) there's next to no current flowing through a volt meter.

 

Use your meter to measure the resistance instead: Make sure the ignition's off; remove the ballasted (pink) wire from the coil and attach  it to one side of your meter; attach the other side to a white wire connector on the fusebox. You should see about 1.5 ohms.

 

 

 

No fuses should be harmed if you connect to a white wire. They're unfused wires coming from the ignition position on the ignition switch - they become green wires after they pass through a fuse.

[unfixable_mini]

Your car's the right age to have ballasted ignition, as Phil & Nik suggest.

 

Look for a pink/white and a yellow/white wire on the +ve side of the coil or sharing a spade terminal on the starter motor/solenoid. Pink's the ignition supply, Yellow is only live when the starter motor is engaged.

 

Start by cleaning all the connections and inspecting the wires for breaks.

 

Cal beat me to the next step - run a wire from a terminal with a white wire on the fusebox (unfused ignition dependent live) to the +ve on the coil. If that works you need to investigate your coil and/or pink/white ballast wire - don't attempt to drive it, things could overheat & melt!

 

Any markings on the coil such as "ballasted" or a part number?

 

I did this. Ran a wire from the white cable (fuse box) to the coil, replacing the pink/white wire and I tried starting and nothing (turns over but that's it). I tested the wire and I was getting a steady 9v. I plugged the pink/white one back onto the coil and it started and ran for 4secs then cut out, as usual. So, i'm still clueless.

[cal844]

Must be a mixture issue as it tuns then dies