Regarding number one; a 1.5o negative camber arm doesn't necessarily give you 1.5o of negative camber, it gives you 1.5o more negative camber than whatever you have with standard arms. You also need to make sure the ride height is where you want it to be as on the front changing ride height causes the amount of camber to change.
Hmm, there must be a guide somewhere on how to do this, if I were doing it on the existing car setup I guess I start by measuring everything to see where it currently is and starting from there?
Yes fit the spacer it stops the lower ball joint being forced to an angle it can’t do.
as above the arm only adds to what you have now. So if you have zero and +1 now you would end up with -1.5 and -0.5
Rgr ref the spacer, glad I found that.
See above ref starting point and my response below.
As part of my Engine Upgrade I am trying to build up a spare Front Subframe. The Engine is a 1310 and will eventually have a Stage Two Head.
WRT Geometry having read this excellent thread I am going for a -1 Negative Camber on the front.
1. Should I try and source a preset -1.5 Lower Arm or an Adjustable Lower Arm?
In the Adjustable Lower description on Mini Spares its states "When increasing negative canber ST Abingdon always advised fitting a 3mm plate under the top arm where the bump stop 2A4267 hits to prevent undue strain on the driveshafts."
2. What's the general opinion on this, do I need to make up a 3mm plate to put under the Lower Bump Stop?
Go for the adjustable arm, and also fit adjustable tie rods.
While you are about it, fit Hi-Lo knuckle joints, and to make a perfect job, sit in the car, or load the car with the equivalent body weight that will usually be carried, when the suspension is set up.
I already picked up a set of SH Hi Los (Front and Rear) along with some Spax Adjustable Front Shocks. I also have adjustable Heavy Duty Tie Rods on the existing Subframe.
I guess I'll try and get some adjustable Lower Arms to go with the existing Adjustable Tie Rods and Hi Los and once the car is on the ground with the new engine in (as it will be heavier than the 998. I'll start from there?
I was planning on building up the Subframe off the car and when I am ready:
1. Lift out the old Engine.
2. Drop the old Subframe.
3. Strip / clean / paint the engine bay.
4. Put the car in the new Subframe.
5. Drop in the new Engine.
6. Setup the Geometry.
That's the plan anyway