Don't forget to fit new gaskets behind the wheel cylinders and new spring washers behind the back plate bolts. Worth getting new copper washers for the brake hoses too.
Brake Adjuster Replacement 1979 Mini
#16
Posted 13 January 2020 - 09:47 PM
#17
Posted 13 January 2020 - 10:24 PM
Yeah been a few times before and they've been really helpful but it's about £30 more for those and I'm not really sure what extra I'm paying for
As you are a TMF member set up your discount with minispares! go to mini spares North, great bunch of guys
Anyone got any experience with minisport backplates? They're on sale so for the two I need it's £~55 Vs ~£85 from minispares but I don't know about quality. Worth the savings?
very helpful.
#18
Posted 13 January 2020 - 10:27 PM
Don't forget to fit new gaskets behind the wheel cylinders and new spring washers behind the back plate bolts. Worth getting new copper washers for the brake hoses too.
Thanks. I'll make sure I pick some up
#19
Posted 13 January 2020 - 10:28 PM
Always worth having a torque wrench or you're just guessing, particularly for important things like the hub nut. How about this one?I'm replacing my CV boots anyway so was going to need that anyway. Do you NEED a torque wrench? I have a regular socket set but I think torque wrenches are kinda pricey?
Okay. Yeah that one seems alright on price actually
#20
Posted 13 January 2020 - 11:06 PM
Yeah been a few times before and they've been really helpful but it's about £30 more for those and I'm not really sure what extra I'm paying forAs you are a TMF member set up your discount with minispares! go to mini spares North, great bunch of guys
Anyone got any experience with minisport backplates? They're on sale so for the two I need it's £~55 Vs ~£85 from minispares but I don't know about quality. Worth the savings?
very helpful.
Better quality
#21
Posted 14 January 2020 - 12:06 PM
I have a 1979 mini 850 with drum brakes and am attempting to replace the brake adjusters as they have seized in place. Most brake adjusters seem to be different to what I have and the only one I found that looks the same is a 3rd party part which says it is 1964-1989 I think. Anyone know of any changes to the design of the brakes/adjusters around 1964ish? The adjusters I have are a bolt with an offset cylinder on the end so when you spin the bolt the cylinder applies different amounts of pressure on the inside of the shoes. Anyone seen anything similar?
Which adjuster ? is it the one that you can't get at, or are all 4 seized ?
When you have got the backplate off, try heat on the adjusters.
It is worth obtaining the 1/4" key to Oxy/ Acetylene cylinders; they are made of very good steel and the square section is slightly tapered to make a good fit.
#22
Posted 14 January 2020 - 01:14 PM
ARe we talking front brakes? You're not confusing them with rear adjusters are you?
#23
Posted 14 January 2020 - 06:44 PM
ARe we talking front brakes? You're not confusing them with rear adjusters are you?
I was. Turns out I need to either buy a whole new backplate or somehow fit new front adjusters (probably requires drilling, tapping and then fitting the new part)
#24
Posted 14 January 2020 - 06:47 PM
I have a 1979 mini 850 with drum brakes and am attempting to replace the brake adjusters as they have seized in place. Most brake adjusters seem to be different to what I have and the only one I found that looks the same is a 3rd party part which says it is 1964-1989 I think. Anyone know of any changes to the design of the brakes/adjusters around 1964ish? The adjusters I have are a bolt with an offset cylinder on the end so when you spin the bolt the cylinder applies different amounts of pressure on the inside of the shoes. Anyone seen anything similar?
Which adjuster ? is it the one that you can't get at, or are all 4 seized ?
When you have got the backplate off, try heat on the adjusters.
It is worth obtaining the 1/4" key to Oxy/ Acetylene cylinders; they are made of very good steel and the square section is slightly tapered to make a good fit.
I've already tried a blowtorch but it didn't seem to help. Which ones are good sorry? Oxy/acetylene is a gas so I'm guessing you're suggesting that as the source for heat?
#25
Posted 14 January 2020 - 08:57 PM
As DeadSquare! said the key for turning on the gas on Oxy/Acetylene bottles is good for freeing off the Front adjusters
plus some heat (proper old school) 3 are quite accessible with the backplate still on the car! the N/S one behind the
steering arm isn't .
I have just cleaned and readjusted mine today! 1976 Clubman, if you are nearer Leeds than York I could offer some
practical help feel free to PM me if help required.
#26
Posted 15 January 2020 - 01:31 AM
#27
Posted 15 January 2020 - 08:04 AM
I have always annealed copper washers by heating them to cherry red then dropping them in cold water.
Also one needs to be careful with the adjusters as too much oil and too much rotation will cause them to loose the necessary friction and tightness and the brake shoe springs will just pull them back again.
The better solution in this case are new backing plates
#28
Posted 15 January 2020 - 12:33 PM
If you're doing the cylinders too, remove the backplates; clamp the adjuster in a vice by the chunkiest cylindrical bit you referred to and turn the backplate instead. It'll also make it easier to give them a good soaking in oil or heat in the oven when the Mrs isn't looking. While she's distracted you can anneal the copper washers on the hob too - just heat until they change colour a bit 'n let them cool naturally.
The cylinders seem fine so don't think I'll be swapping them out. If I can get the backplates off I've had a mate suggest soaking them in petrol before having a go. Might try the oven or give them even more heat too thanks.
#29
Posted 15 January 2020 - 12:38 PM
I have always annealed copper washers by heating them to cherry red then dropping them in cold water.
Also one needs to be careful with the adjusters as too much oil and too much rotation will cause them to loose the necessary friction and tightness and the brake shoe springs will just pull them back again.
The better solution in this case are new backing plates
Ah. Yeah, They seem very stuck on so would definitely need a lot of oil and heat. Even with a brake adjusting spanner the heads are just deforming and rounding so unfortunately I suspect you're correct in that I need new backplates. Currently trying to get the old one off on the drivers side but everything is siezed so getting even just the connecting pipe between the cylinders off is pretty tricky.
#30
Posted 15 January 2020 - 12:46 PM
As DeadSquare! said the key for turning on the gas on Oxy/Acetylene bottles is good for freeing off the Front adjusters
plus some heat (proper old school) 3 are quite accessible with the backplate still on the car! the N/S one behind the
steering arm isn't .
I have just cleaned and readjusted mine today! 1976 Clubman, if you are nearer Leeds than York I could offer some
practical help feel free to PM me if help required.
I've got a "brake adjuster spanner" I'm using so I'm guessing that should also be fine?
One side I've already tried to remove the adjuster so I could fit a new one but seeing as the general consensus is to get a new backplate I might consider that instead if the other adjuster on that backplate is also seized beyond repair.
The side I haven't touched might be worth saving as either way the backplate has to come off.
Thanks for the offer! I'll send you a PM if I need some practical help as I am that side of York. For now hopefully I should be okay but I do appreciate the offer (I've got my dad giving me a hand with it)
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