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Brake Adjuster Replacement 1979 Mini


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#31 Ethel

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Posted 15 January 2020 - 12:58 PM

Adjusters that are too tight can usually be made slacker. One's that are too slack are more likely to need replacing.

 

£80 for new plates would be a handy contribution towards converting to discs, just a thought.



#32 dangreen

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Posted 15 January 2020 - 02:14 PM

Adjusters that are too tight can usually be made slacker. One's that are too slack are more likely to need replacing.

£80 for new plates would be a handy contribution towards converting to discs, just a thought.


Yeah it just seems almost impossible to get them to budge.

I'm running 10" wheels so I'd have to buy cooper s discs and they're pretty pricey compared to the £80 for new backplates or buying the later 8.4" discs plus it's only an 850 so it's not like I'm going to be going particularly fast. The reason I'm adjusting them is because they pull the car to the left under heavy breaking not because they're inadequate at stopping it

#33 Ethel

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Posted 15 January 2020 - 04:25 PM

Can't argue with that. Drums aren't short of stopping power compared to discs. It's the fade and ditch diving tendency that counts against 'em. 

 

I wouldn't bother with the adjuster peg to get them moving. The "cylinder" bit on the inside doesn't have that much of a critical  purpose to bother about doing it a little damage, as long as the shoe still sits 'n slides on the end face. You could even get away with cutting some flats for a spanner etc.



#34 gazza82

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Posted 15 January 2020 - 04:36 PM

 

If you're doing the cylinders too, remove the backplates; clamp the adjuster in a vice by the chunkiest cylindrical bit you referred to and turn the backplate instead. It'll also make it easier to give them a good soaking in oil or heat in the oven when the Mrs isn't looking. While she's distracted you can anneal the copper washers on the hob too - just heat until they change colour a bit 'n let them cool naturally.


had a mate suggest soaking them in petrol before having a go. Might try the oven or give them even more heat too thanks.

 

 

Diesel would be better (it's oil based) .. petrol evaporates .. or a good quality penetrating fluid like PlusGas ..



#35 dangreen

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Posted 15 January 2020 - 10:13 PM

Can't argue with that. Drums aren't short of stopping power compared to discs. It's the fade and ditch diving tendency that counts against 'em. 

 

I wouldn't bother with the adjuster peg to get them moving. The "cylinder" bit on the inside doesn't have that much of a critical  purpose to bother about doing it a little damage, as long as the shoe still sits 'n slides on the end face. You could even get away with cutting some flats for a spanner etc.

 

Right, I think I'm going to take em off so can have a proper look and maybe give em a bit of heat. Already taken an angle grinder and drill to one side (got a bit excited and thought it would make sense to do that to change the adjusters) so will either have to re-tap the threads and add a new adjuster or fit a new backplate. Having it off should give me a better idea of what to do hopefully.



#36 dangreen

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Posted 15 January 2020 - 10:16 PM

 

 

If you're doing the cylinders too, remove the backplates; clamp the adjuster in a vice by the chunkiest cylindrical bit you referred to and turn the backplate instead. It'll also make it easier to give them a good soaking in oil or heat in the oven when the Mrs isn't looking. While she's distracted you can anneal the copper washers on the hob too - just heat until they change colour a bit 'n let them cool naturally.


had a mate suggest soaking them in petrol before having a go. Might try the oven or give them even more heat too thanks.

 

 

Diesel would be better (it's oil based) .. petrol evaporates .. or a good quality penetrating fluid like PlusGas ..

 

 

Hmmm, might try that then thanks. Got to get the backplates off first


Edited by dangreen, 15 January 2020 - 10:16 PM.


#37 Rorf

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 05:24 AM

It is extremely difficult to do this sort of work whilst still attached to the hubs. Remove them and do the necessary on a work bench. You might even be able to find some decent back plates on Ebay.



#38 dangreen

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 12:57 PM

It is extremely difficult to do this sort of work whilst still attached to the hubs. Remove them and do the necessary on a work bench. You might even be able to find some decent back plates on Ebay.


Yeah. Currently trying to remove the brake hose so I can get the backplates off. It's a bit of a pain to get the nut loosened so if you have any advice for this it'd be appreciated?

#39 gaspen

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 08:12 PM

What about this ?

 

https://www.ebay.co....=item4b4839aab7



#40 dangreen

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 07:26 PM

What about this ?

https://www.ebay.co....=item4b4839aab7


Ooh, thanks. That's tempting!

#41 dangreen

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 04:33 PM

 

Anyone had any experience with these?



#42 Homersimpson

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 06:12 PM

We used to rem9ve the drum and shoes and free them off with a pair of mole grips from the inside.

once free if the adjusters were rounded we used to put a nugget of weld on one side which we could then get a spanner on.

It never failed to work and got us out of many scrapes.

#43 gaspen

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 06:24 PM



 


 

Anyone had any experience with these?

 

 

Yes : me :shifty:

 

I repaired my front brakes with this set. Wity the big nut you can adjust the "friction" of the excenter, These nuts has some kind of "self-locking"  shape. The excenter has a 1/4" ( I think) square end for adjust the brake pads - just as the originals.

 

 

Attached File  br1.jpg   53.45K   1 downloadsAttached File  br2.jpg   39.15K   1 downloads



#44 dangreen

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Posted 19 January 2020 - 01:30 PM







What about this ?

https://www.ebay.co....=item4b4839aab7


Anyone had any experience with these?

Yes : me :shifty:

I repaired my front brakes with this set. Wity the big nut you can adjust the "friction" of the excenter, These nuts has some kind of "self-locking" shape. The excenter has a 1/4" ( I think) square end for adjust the brake pads - just as the originals.


br1.jpg br2.jpg

Ah nice, looks good. Did you have to drill out the old ones and tap the threads to fit them or did you just manage to unscrew them somehow?

#45 dangreen

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Posted 19 January 2020 - 01:37 PM

We used to rem9ve the drum and shoes and free them off with a pair of mole grips from the inside.

once free if the adjusters were rounded we used to put a nugget of weld on one side which we could then get a spanner on.

It never failed to work and got us out of many scrapes.


Might give that a go. Thanks. I assumed that I wouldn't be able to get the mole grips on with enough grip as it's a cylinder but I might give that a go. I've taken one backplate off so far and plan to heat up the adjuster and try to remove it but was unable to get any of my spanners on the square nut properly (including a proper adjuster spanner) so that could work!




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