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If You Could Have One Extra Steady...


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#1 DamoMini

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 01:31 AM

... would you pick the lower LH or the lower RH?

I have a 1978 1000, rod change, currently has just the upper engine steady (and bad engine mounts). Shakes like a good thing. When I replace the mounts (rather, when I get up the courage to remove the engine) I was also thinking of adding an extra lower steady but can’t decide RH or LH and don’t really want to do both.

#2 timmy850

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 03:16 AM

If you only have a single top steady then I’d put the lower on the opposite side. If you don’t have the extra one on the LH top side I think that would be preferable to the lower ones as it’s got more leverage on the engine

The two lower ones are super easy to install and pretty cheap, I put both in and my engine is nice and solid

#3 Spider

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 05:07 AM

The Australian Built Minis and Mokes that were fitted with the Rod Shift Gearboxes all had standard an Upper LH Mount, it came off the Thermostat Housing and on to (depending on whether RH or LH Drive) a Bracket over the Heaters Hoses (in the case of RHD) or the Master Cylinder Drip Plate (in the case of LHD Cars).

 

I find this together with the RH Steady is well enough for any engine to around 110 - 120 HP. I feel these work considerably better than the UK late steadies that were fitted on the lower side of the engine / gearbox as they are a lot further away from the engine mounts.



#4 Rorf

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 06:47 AM

The lower steadies have hardly any leverage effect on the engine tilting forwards or backwards. Ideal are two steadies at the top, being the original from the cylinder head to the body on the RHS and the thermostat steady to the body on the LHS.

 

Also ensure you install high quality engine mounts too. The engine should not move at all now :proud:



#5 AP2020

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 08:47 AM

The lower steadies have hardly any leverage effect on the engine tilting forwards or backwards. Ideal are two steadies at the top, being the original from the cylinder head to the body on the RHS and the thermostat steady to the body on the LHS.

 

Also ensure you install high quality engine mounts too. The engine should not move at all now :proud:

 

But they do help to prevent the lower engine mount from shearing, not sure if that was the intention when they fitted them in production though. 

 

If you want to see where the movement is tape a video camera to the wiper motor area and take it for a quick blat up the road, ensuring that all speed limits are adhered to of course.



#6 Ethel

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 12:26 PM

I think I'd go with one on the same side as the top steady to avoid twist and keep the reaction forces in a plane perpendicular to the drive shafts.

 

I guess BL's thinking with the lower steadies was not to bypass the isolation of the rubber subby mounts - shouldn't have bothered with either IMHO.



#7 nicklouse

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 01:44 PM

fit an extra top rather than and extra bottom.

 

if fitting the bottom ones I would fit both as they help hold the engine in place rather than stop it rocking.



#8 DamoMini

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 03:14 PM

Thanks for the responses. Will order an upper LH steady with the engine mounts.

#9 Mini Manannán

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:26 PM

The Australian Built Minis and Mokes that were fitted with the Rod Shift Gearboxes all had standard an Upper LH Mount, it came off the Thermostat Housing and on to (depending on whether RH or LH Drive) a Bracket over the Heaters Hoses (in the case of RHD) or the Master Cylinder Drip Plate (in the case of LHD Cars).

 

I find this together with the RH Steady is well enough for any engine to around 110 - 120 HP. I feel these work considerably better than the UK late steadies that were fitted on the lower side of the engine / gearbox as they are a lot further away from the engine mounts.

 

Is that similar to the DSN version Chris? http://www.dsnclassi...ig-bore-short/  I have one of those fitted, an adjustable on the right and the two bottom steadies:  belt and braces! 



#10 Spider

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 07:39 PM

 

The Australian Built Minis and Mokes that were fitted with the Rod Shift Gearboxes all had standard an Upper LH Mount, it came off the Thermostat Housing and on to (depending on whether RH or LH Drive) a Bracket over the Heaters Hoses (in the case of RHD) or the Master Cylinder Drip Plate (in the case of LHD Cars).

 

I find this together with the RH Steady is well enough for any engine to around 110 - 120 HP. I feel these work considerably better than the UK late steadies that were fitted on the lower side of the engine / gearbox as they are a lot further away from the engine mounts.

 

Is that similar to the DSN version Chris? http://www.dsnclassi...ig-bore-short/  I have one of those fitted, an adjustable on the right and the two bottom steadies:  belt and braces! 

 

 

Tim, it's a very similar concept and works the same way, only the Aust ones do use the same Bar as is on the RH side and is on Rubbers both ends.

I'll put up a photo later.

I've thought about doing the same as you mate, but haven't gone much further than that with it.



#11 timmy850

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 09:50 PM

I bought this one for mine, just didn’t want to fit as the engine breather canister and heater hoses all occupy the same space (that’s why I did the two lowers instead)

http://www.minispare...k/MSSK1000.aspx

#12 DamoMini

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 11:05 PM

@timmy850 - thanks for the reminder - I need to check if my crankcase breather will interfere with the upper LH mount (which is basically the same as the one you linked to).

Heater hoses not a problem because I have a left hand drive (California) and a “deleted” heater.

Edited by DamoMini, 24 January 2020 - 11:06 PM.





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