10 replies to this topic

[DUF2]

I have a ‘65 Elf which I am rebuilding. I have never had the car on the road so don’t know if the fuel gauge worked.
before I put the tank and the dash back I. I thought I’d check the/operation of the gauge, but cannot get the gauge to work.

i connected the gauge tank etc out of the car, but no luck.

I took 12v+ from a battery to the voltage stabiliser, a 12v-from the back of the speedo back to the battery. The existing green wire across the back of the speedo goes to the gauge, I then took a wire from the gauge to the sender and an earth from the tank back the the earth on the bank of the speedo.

The needle was still showing E. I checked the voltage stabiliser and got 13v so suspect this is goosed.

As the stabiliser was putting 13V into the gauge, is this now likely to be goosed?

Can  someone advise me the best way to test to confirm the gauge and also the sensor are still OK?

Many Thanks

[DUF2]

I should have said my Elf is now negative earth with an alternator, not sure if this makes any difference to the gauge and stabiliser 

Edited by DUF2, 26 January 2020 - 07:08 PM.

[Its a min]

If you connect the two wires that go to the sender together, the fuel gauge should show full. If it does, the sender from the tank is dead...probably due to corrosion. If nothing happens, the problem is elsewhere.

[Spider]

If the Voltage Stabaliser is the original type, you can't properly measure the output voltage of them. You need a thermal voltmenter. If it's a new electronic type, check that the body of the Stabaliser is earthed.

 

With your circuit connected as you have done, Earth out briefly (about 10 seconds) the wire to the sender and the gauge should read full or maybe a bit more.

If it does, then the sender is likely karput.

 

If it does not, measure the gauge for continuity. If it has a circuit through it, then the Stabaliser is likely the issue.

[viz139]

The output of the voltage stabilizer will read full battery voltage (12 v) if there is no load on it. It uses the current going to the gauge to create heat that opens and closes a switch, its more a pulsed 12 volts than a constant 10 volts .

In this order

1. Check gauge. Put 12v directly onto gauge and when the needle reaches full switch off.

2. Check voltage stabilizer. Connect  circuit as you did before but without the tank( connect negative direct to gauge).Should read full.

3. Check sender unit. remove from tank and connect circuit as you did before. Move the sender up and down. You may find it is totally gone or it may work at some points.

[DUF2]

Got it to work! Cleaned all the connections as they were a bit grubby. Then tried shorting out the tank sender unit and eventually got a “full tank” one thing I didn’t allow for was the time delay on the gauge!!.

 

As I have the tank out, I was able to simulate, empty mid and full tank just by rotating the tank, so I know the kit works!

thanks for all your replies.

[sonscar]

You said positive earth with an alternator,was this a mistake?.Steve..

[DUF2]

You said positive earth with an alternator,was this a mistake?.Steve..

Correct you spotted my deliberate! Mistake.

[Spider]

 

You said positive earth with an alternator,was this a mistake?.Steve..

Correct you spotted my deliberate! Mistake.

 

 

There is  Positive Earth Alternator they did fit on the UK Mins for a short time

[DUF2]

Thanks Moke Spider. 
the second post I put on (now corrected!) because I thought there may be a difference in the fuel gauge system between the original Positve Earth dynamo system and the Negative earth Alternator system that is fitted to the A+ engine in my car. I foolishly got myself mixed up when I made the post!!

[sonscar]

I had heard rumours of the positive earth alternator but uncharacteristically for me never bought a car with one.Steve..