24 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi;

 

So after scouring the Web for months I managed to get hold of some used Mini Disc Hubs, in the same deal I picked up some CV Joints and Drive Shafts. The hubs have the bearings in (one oil seal has been damaged and pulled out so the bearing is loose).

 

Is it feasible to reuse the CV joints? What do I need to check to ensure they are fit to go again?

 

I am going to strip and clean the hubs, but if I am able to re-use the bearings, how should I check them and should the races be removed and if they are can they be re-fitted? 

 

If at all possible, my plan was to renew the Ball Joint Rubber Caps and Hub Oil Seals only, this combined with re-using the CV joints will mean that all I need to buy extra is an 8.4 to 7.5 conversion kit.

 

The lower CV joint in the pic cleaned up with a quick spray and wipe with WD40

 

 

 

[nicklouse]

strip and clean and look for any wear on the balls and cages. same for the bearings.

 

looks like there are issues with one rubber cone as well.

[JonnyAlpha]

strip and clean and look for any wear on the balls and cages. same for the bearings.

 

looks like there are issues with one rubber cone as well.

 

Yes one of the nuts has come un-glued, are these just for the spring compressor? I was going to get some two part epoxy and sick it back in?

 

As well as Ball Joint rubbers mentioned above, I was also going to get some new lock tabs for the Ball Joints. Possibly need some CV Joint Boots, or a way of re-securing them as I'll need to remove them to inspect, clean and  re-grease

 

There is some sign of scoring to the CV's in the area marked by the arrow in the pic below. I have not cleaned them up yet, but wondered is this was an area that usually gets affected and is ok?

 

 

Given the possibility that new bearings will be required, either now in in the future, I also need to ask the question about bearings.

I have seen several posts suggesting that the only bearings worth buying are Timken and standard bearings are useless.

 

Surely if they are that bad and fail so soon after fitting why are not classed as "Not Fit For Purpose" and withdrawn from sale.

 

I have however seen comments from people stating that they have had no issues with standard bearings? 

There is as you all know a massive cost difference.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 30 January 2020 - 07:20 PM.

[nicklouse]

As long as the CV shaft is not worn they are generally ok as they don’t touch any moving parts.

 

if you are thinking of changing the lock tabs on the ball joints you should be replacing the whole ball joint as you should not really reshim them which is what you would have to do if you change the lock tabs.

 

dont epoxy the nut get some weld on it epoxy will not hold and you will get in a whole world of pain.

 

timken are the standard bearings for discs. 

[bpirie1000]

Just go for it...
Get stuck in and see how you go.. measure twice, fix once...

[JonnyAlpha]

OK so I started cleaning up the Hubs and Bits today, made good progress and have some good news and bad news.

 

Looks like the Ball Joints on one of the hubs had recently been renewed but on the same hub one of the grease nipples has sheared off (didn't spot this before I bought them). I had a go at getting it out but no joy, it's snapped off inside and someone has had a go at getting it out and its knackered.

 

 

 

Looks like a job for a machinist either drilling it out and fitting a Helicoil or welding it up, drilling and re-tapping? What thread size / pattern are the Grease Nipples so I can make sure its done properly.

 

I removed the Oil Seals and removed the bearings, lots of dirt, but the look Ok and they are Timken.

[JonnyAlpha]

Been advised to drill and tap the snapped grease nipple to M8 and use a larger grease nipple.

[g0myw]

have you tried a stud extractor.
I had a bleed nipple in caliper in a similar state .

Left hand drill + left hand extractor did it.

[Rorf]

That cone with the loose nut could be used on the rear suspension. 

[JonnyAlpha]

have you tried a stud extractor.
I had a bleed nipple in caliper in a similar state .

Left hand drill + left hand extractor did it.

 

I tried a stud extractor, it just kept screwing in. I then decided to try and drill as carefully as I could to remove as much of the nipple as possible, that didn't work either. Now it's got to the point where it needs drilling out and re-tapping to the next size.

 

Didn't think to use heat and didn't know about left handed drill bits  

 

I have a Tap and Die set - not sure if it has 8mm, if not I'll pop to my trusty machine shop. 

[JonnyAlpha]

That cone with the loose nut could be used on the rear suspension. 

 

I re-did the rear suspension 3 years ago with some good SH Doughnuts. If I use it on the rear I'll have to buy another one for the front :-( 

Think I weld it up.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 02 February 2020 - 02:21 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

As I said above the bearings are Timken and cleaned up in some white spirits, not heat marks on the rollers and no grating when the spin.

 

 

 

Cleaned up the outside and inside of the Swivel Hubs. 

Couldn't undo the older Ball Joints, didn't have a spanner big enough - need to look at that.

 

Now, if I am re-using the bearings, should I leave the races in situ as I don't want damage them getting them out, The hubs need more cleaning and I am going to soak everything in a Citric Acid solution to irradiate any oxidation, this won't affect the races and will ensure everything is clean. I can then paint the inside and outside of the hubs. Just need to get the ball joints off one of the hubs.

 

 

 

[JonnyAlpha]

I will be renewing the older ball joints as the thread on one is knackered anyway:

 

[AP2020]

That cone with the loose nut could be used on the rear suspension. 

 

It could but really should be used as a pair per axle so both would have to be changed

[AP2020]

lap in your ball joints and looking at the CV the lower one is almost certainly fubared, the red rust is usually as a result of movement, it could be the CV or the hub and the bearings do look like they are rotating and no amount of tightening will fix it once its gone.

Edited by AP2020, 07 February 2020 - 03:27 AM.