24 replies to this topic

[sonscar]

I thought that the bearing spacers were matched to the individual bearing set?I would have tried to keep them in their original running positions.Same with the races.Steve..

[bpirie1000]

Good work buddy.. get some paint onmthe as soon as you can though..

with minis... even the plastic seams to rust these days......

[JonnyAlpha]

I thought that the bearing spacers were matched to the individual bearing set?I would have tried to keep them in their original running positions.Same with the races.Steve..

 

Too late, too late was the cry    

[JonnyAlpha]

Good work buddy.. get some paint onmthe as soon as you can though..

with minis... even the plastic seams to rust these days......

 

The still need soaking in a Citric Acid solution (thats the next stage) this will remove all traces of metal oxidation and then after a wash with fresh water and a blow dry with a hot air gun they will be scuffed up and sprayed with an Acid Etch primer, then top coat.

[JonnyAlpha]

Got lucky with the broken stud, I ran a 6mm tap lightly through it and managed to screw a new nipple in OK.

[JonnyAlpha]

Just had another look at the bearings and they are all marked 'TIMKEN' 'LM67049A', they also have two additional letter separate, two of the bearings have 'VA' and the other two have 'VF'. Could it be that the VA's are a pair and the VF's are a separate pair?

Just don't know if they need to match the races? 

 

[JonnyAlpha]

So - one of the original CVs is toasted, salvaged a Metro one to replace it. Its the one on the left:

 

 

I also had another Metro one but the bearing race was stuck solid even after soaking in a mix of White Spirit and Grease, so I took it to my local garage and they had a brilliant removal tool.

 

 

After a clean up, its still not as good as the first Metro ones and sadly neither are as good as some Hardy Spicer ones I accidentally sold last week :-( 

 

 

 

I do still have one more set on a scrap Metro, just need to get some time to get to it and get the Hubs, 4 Pot Calipers and CVs off. 

[AP2020]

So - one of the original CVs is toasted, salvaged a Metro one to replace it. Its the one on the left:

 

 

I also had another Metro one but the bearing race was stuck solid even after soaking in a mix of White Spirit and Grease, so I took it to my local garage and they had a brilliant removal tool.

 

 

After a clean up, its still not as good as the first Metro ones and sadly neither are as good as some Hardy Spicer ones I accidentally sold last week :-( 

 

 

 

I do still have one more set on a scrap Metro, just need to get some time to get to it and get the Hubs, 4 Pot Calipers and CVs off. 

 

If that is what you have to use then defo use the one that was stuck fast as it was tighter and therefore less chance of destroying itself later... 

[mini-mad-mark]

Just had another look at the bearings and they are all marked 'TIMKEN' 'LM67049A', they also have two additional letter separate, two of the bearings have 'VA' and the other two have 'VF'. Could it be that the VA's are a pair and the VF's are a separate pair?

Just don't know if they need to match the races? 

 

 

They are actually YA (not VA) and VF if you look closely.

These are the manufacturing date codes, not codes used to match them as such. 

 

However as those codes are some way apart, the chances are that they are paired - i.e the YA's were fitted to one hub and the VF's to the other but as mentioned earlier in this thread you need to know which hub had which pair and also which spacer - the spacers are not usually marked so you are in a bit of shtuck if you don't know which bits belong to which hub/outer rings

 

The correct combination of these parts is needed to maintain the correct setting (for proper bearing performance) in case you haven't seen any of the many threads on here.

 

Mixing the bearing parts would require readjustment of the setting by changing the spacer size accordingly (could be larger or smaller depending on the exact combination of bearing internal tolerances) and requires a certain knowledge/understanding of how to achieve the correct setting - a little complex to explain here. 

 

If not correctly set/adjusted, this can lead to serious/catastrophic damage to the bearings with the potentially serious consequences that can lead to. 

 

 

By the way as yours are stamped "England" this means they were made in Northampton before the British Timken plant closed in 2002.

https://www.northamp...e-opens-1051521

 

 

 

Regards

[AP2020]

 

Just had another look at the bearings and they are all marked 'TIMKEN' 'LM67049A', they also have two additional letter separate, two of the bearings have 'VA' and the other two have 'VF'. Could it be that the VA's are a pair and the VF's are a separate pair?

Just don't know if they need to match the races? 

 

 

They are actually YA (not VA) and VF if you look closely.

These are the manufacturing date codes, not codes used to match them as such. 

 

However as those codes are some way apart, the chances are that they are paired - i.e the YA's were fitted to one hub and the VF's to the other but as mentioned earlier in this thread you need to know which hub had which pair and also which spacer - the spacers are not usually marked so you are in a bit of shtuck if you don't know which bits belong to which hub/outer rings

 

The correct combination of these parts is needed to maintain the correct setting (for proper bearing performance) in case you haven't seen any of the many threads on here.

 

Mixing the bearing parts would require readjustment of the setting by changing the spacer size accordingly (could be larger or smaller depending on the exact combination of bearing internal tolerances) and requires a certain knowledge/understanding of how to achieve the correct setting - a little complex to explain here. 

 

If not correctly set/adjusted, this can lead to serious/catastrophic damage to the bearings with the potentially serious consequences that can lead to. 

 

 

By the way as yours are stamped "England" this means they were made in Northampton before the British Timken plant closed in 2002.

https://www.northamp...e-opens-1051521

 

 

 

Regards

 

 

The gates are still in Duston ...