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Rubber Joints To Hardy Spicer


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#1 1977 Loud_Mini

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 03:15 PM

Hi all,

It's been a few years since I've been on this forum. I used to have a 1977 rally inspired mini. Now I have a 1967 mk1 automatic mini which is inspired by the historic fia race cars of today.

I am going to do a manual conversion and have acquired a 1275 A series engine with Remote change gearbox but has the rubber joints on the diff output shafts. It's from a Ad016 aswell but still should be okay.

I have the HS joints on my auto mini and I believe they are the knock on type similar to pot joints. My question is, are the rubber coupler output shafts the same as pot joints and can I use the swiftune Hardy Spicer adaptors? If not then I guess I would have to remove the output shafts from the auto diff and end covers to then use on the 1275 gearbox. Just would be better if I didn't have to disassemble the auto engine really.

Any help is much appreciated.

Evan.

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Edited by 1977 Loud_Mini, 15 March 2020 - 03:21 PM.


#2 imack

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 04:16 PM

Rubber coupling output shafts can only take rubber coupling yokes. IF you've got knock on hardy spicer flanges you need pot joint out put shafts and copper S side plates with the larger bushes.
If you've got bolt on hardy spicer flanges you need the cooper S output flanges and cooper S side plates.
You could use the output shafts from your auto box but you'll still need cooper S side plates.
If you use pot joint output shafts you could use MED / swiftune knock on hardy spicer flanges, these use the more commonly available standard mini side plates.
I'd check what you've got in the auto box first and check their condition before deciding which combination of parts to use.
Auto boxes up to around 73 usually used the cooper S bolt on drive flanges. Knock ons are much rarer, used between about 73 and whenever the pot joints came out in about 75ish.
Auto side plates can't be used on a manual box.

Edited by imack, 15 March 2020 - 04:17 PM.


#3 Moke Spider

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 06:12 PM

I'd suggest here that you'll want to remove the Diff from the (ADO16) 1275 in any case. It would be wise to freshen up the diff parts and also, check the final dive ratio. Being from an ADO16, many of these were fitted with a 4.1:1 Final Drive Ratio, which you'll find pretty short in a road going Mini. While you have the diff in bits, that would be the time to swap the output shafts to suit the HS type Uni Joints.

 

One other aspect to consider here is the Remote of the ADO16. They bolt up via a rubber sandwich plate to the Diff Cap. When fitted up in the ADO16, the engine used a different front engine plate to a mine that had Engine Mounts fore and aft that also steadied the engine. When fitted to a Mini, it's a different engine mount and steady system;- It has a single lower engine mount and used the remote as an engine steady. While there is also the engine steady on the flywheel end of the engine, I've found in moderately powered cars, that's not enough on it's own. As the ADO16 Remote is through a rubber isolator, that will no longer form a suitable engine steady and without an additional engine steady on the left side of the engine, it will soon break the rubber in the isolator. This can be over come, but I mention it as it's not always obvious.



#4 1977 Loud_Mini

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 02:27 AM

Thankyou to you both, you've really answered all my questions I had regarding my original post :)
Mine is a 67 car so probably has bolt on HS joints then, I haven't inspected the car in too much detail as I had bodywork to be getting on with. But thanks for clearing up the items I need.

Yes I was aware not many are too keen on the rubber sandwich plate between the remote and gearbox. I've heard you can burn off the rubber and then weld the plates together. Also I was concerned about the bolts hitting an LCB exhaust system but I've read of people still running these exhaust systems.

As mine is an automatic. I shall have to cut a hole in the tunnel to allow the gear lever to come through. And also drill holes for the remote end bracket to fix to the tunnel. If anyone has dimensions and positions for the cut out, that would be fantastic!

Thanks

Evan.

#5 62S

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Posted 17 March 2020 - 11:56 PM

You used to be able to get a single piece metal plate to replace the rubber sandwich plate.




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