12 replies to this topic

[minicooperr]

As above, looking to fit a stack water temp gauge but they come in two variants electrical or mechanical, which is best/ easiest to fit?

thanks 

[tmsmini]

Caerbont has been having issues with the mechanical versions of the temp gauges. I returned a few and am still waiting on replacements.

Although this was before Christmas and the problem could have been resolved by now.

[minicooperr]

I’m looking at stack gauges but is it a mechanical gauge that fits to the a series? I know you can buy a sensor so I assume that’s for the electrical but can you do the same with the mechanical? 

[Spider]

Mechanical gauges usually have a capillary tube and a (sensor) bulb that's directly attached to the back of the gauge and not removable. This is because they are filled with a gas or fluid.

 

It does also make them a bit harder to fit and potentially have a messy appearance particularly if the Capillary is too long or too short - you simply can't sinp some off or add some more on.

 

They are generally regarded as more accurate and more reliable though.

 

I did run with them for many years, but I'm over their short comings - just my personal choice on that. I've been exclusively running electric gauges (Smiths) for over 10 years now and while I have found issues with senders not being matched to the gauges, I have found them highly reliable and I don't see myself ever going back to mechanical gauges.

 

The issues with the senders I've found is that they haven't been matched to the gauges. For a short while, I just put up with it and leaned to read the gauge and I could see what was normal and what wasn't. I've since obtained the correct senders from Smiths, however, these need and adaptor to fit in Mini Cylinder Heads.

[Zami]

Mechanical gauges usually have a capillary tube and a (sensor) bulb that's directly attached to the back of the gauge and not removable. This is because they are filled with a gas or fluid.
 
It does also make them a bit harder to fit and potentially have a messy appearance particularly if the Capillary is too long or too short - you simply can't sinp some off or add some more on.
 
They are generally regarded as more accurate and more reliable though.
 
I did run with them for many years, but I'm over their short comings - just my personal choice on that. I've been exclusively running electric gauges (Smiths) for over 10 years now and while I have found issues with senders not bI eing matched to the gauges, I have found them highly reliable and I don't see myself ever going back to mechanical gauges
 
The issues with the senders I've found is that they haven't been matched to the gauges. For a short while, I just put up with it and leaned to read the gauge and I could see what was normal and what wasn't. I've since obtained the correct senders from Smiths, however, these need and adaptor to fit in Mini Cylinder Heads.

I seem to recall a list with the p/n of the senders with the corresponding P/n matched gauge. Does anyone have a copy they could share.

[minicooperr]

I have bought a mechanical one and the probe on the end is about 4cm long, will this fit in the standard position?

[DeadSquare]

I have bought a mechanical one and the probe on the end is about 4cm long, will this fit in the standard position?

 

 

The simple answer is, see if there is 4cm of space for it, and carefully try it.

[minicooperr]

 

I have bought a mechanical one and the probe on the end is about 4cm long, will this fit in the standard position?

 

 

The simple answer is, see if there is 4cm of space for it, and carefully try it.

 

 

Its not currently drilled so dont fancy drilling it if it wont work and have to put it somewhere else 

[DeadSquare]

Has it come with an adapter, or does it screw into the head ?

 

If it has an adapter, it would be easier to solder the adapter into the radiator.

[gazza82]

Has it come with an adapter, or does it screw into the head ?

 

If it has an adapter, it would be easier to solder the adapter into the radiator.

 

That's not the best place to get a true temp reading though ... what about a thermostat housing with a sender hole?

[Spider]

 

The issues with the senders I've found is that they haven't been matched to the gauges. For a short while, I just put up with it and leaned to read the gauge and I could see what was normal and what wasn't. I've since obtained the correct senders from Smiths, however, these need and adaptor to fit in Mini Cylinder Heads.

I seem to recall a list with the p/n of the senders with the corresponding P/n matched gauge. Does anyone have a copy they could share.

 

 

As far as I am aware, there has only be 3 for the Mini;-

 

     Very Early type matched to the early Gauges. These didn't use a Voltage Stabaliser.

     Those matched to 82 degree Thermostats, and

     Those matched to 88 degree Thermostats

 

These last 2 use the same Gauge or the same characteristics. The reason for the change with the Thermostat is so that when at normal operating Temp, the Gauge read ' N '

[timmy850]

I like the mechanical gauge in mine. There’s guaranteed to be no electrical problems, it reads when the engine is off and it’s accurate and has a scale in deg C. Mines was a NOS Stewart Warner gauge when I bought it years ago and it just works!

[jt19]

I use a mechanical gauge. Always have.
I've been wondering recently though, does the capilery tube suffer with heat soak?