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Ball Joint Stuck


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#1 1974mini1000

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 01:09 PM

I am currently doint a brake disk conversion on my 1974 mini 1000 and one ball joint is seized meaning that the hub wont come off. Ive tried both types of separators and a crack it spray to no joy. Is there anyother way i can release this?

#2 1974mini1000

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 01:12 PM

This is the ball joint in question

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#3 blacktulip

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 01:31 PM

Get a blow torch on it and use the scissor type splitter. I have never had issues with these but the heat will definitely help

#4 Quinlan minor

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 01:50 PM

Are you replacing the ball joints?
If so, unbolt the hub to get it out of the way and fetch the big knocking stick.

#5 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 02:07 PM

Try heating the arm with a blow-torch and then have a go.



#6 blacktulip

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 02:13 PM

Hammer won't work as the arm will move with the strikes

#7 Quinlan minor

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 02:21 PM

https://www.google.c...2I1fAPq8GAuAQ21

 



#8 panky

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 02:21 PM

Tighten the separator on  as usual then give the top of the jaw that sits over the ball joint thread a good thump with a hammer.



#9 DeadSquare

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 02:26 PM

 

Whooough  ...........................   £129-99 for a "Zoro" splitter !!



#10 DeadSquare

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 02:29 PM

I am currently doing a brake disk conversion on my 1974 mini 1000 and one ball joint is seized meaning that the hub wont come off. Ive tried both types of separators and a crack it spray to no joy. Is there anyother way i can release this?

 Please add a photo of both your types of seperators.



#11 1974mini1000

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 04:01 PM

 Please add a photo of both your types of seperators.

These are the types i am using

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#12 sonikk4

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 04:27 PM

Are you using a Disc Conversion Kit?? ie something like the one from Minispares??

 

If so the kit comes with ball joints so cut that one off under the top arm. Remove arm then use either a press or drill out the remaining part of the threaded portion.



#13 Moke Spider

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 04:59 PM

If you are going to use heat, just warm the arm, don't heat it to the point where there's any colour change.

 

If you are finding that when thumping the Pin the whole arm moves down, slip the lower ball joint in, and if you have Hilios, let that one off, then jack under the hub to raise the arm. Remove the Rebound Stop (the small L shaped one) and fit a packer in here, then let the jack off being careful your packer doesn't slip out. This should give the arm a solid base to sit on to pound away at the pin with.

 

On the odd Ball Joint Pin I come across that is stuck, I have nearly always had success with loading up the Pin with the (scissor type) seperator, and then hitting the seperator over the B/J Pin. 



#14 DeadSquare

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 05:00 PM

 

 Please add a photo of both your types of seperators.

These are the types i am using

 

 

 

Lubricate the thread on the screw really well.

 

When you fit it, make sure that you position it so that you will be able to set a bar against the end of the wishbone.

 

Tapers need a shock on the side, so having tightened the screw, have a cup of tea, try to squeeze another 1/2 turn and then, placing a bar against the end of the wishbone , give it a really good blow.

 

Might have to do it several times, and see if you can get a bit more turn on the screw between blows.

 

Before "seperators" became common place, there was a real skill to swinging two hammers, so that they struck either side of the wishbone at the same instant...........If you timed it correctly, the hub just fell out.



#15 Algordo1100

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 06:34 PM

The fork type are naff in my experience. I've got one in the garage that's bent to b*ggery from the last time it failed to separate a ball joint. Good paperweight.

I've never used the scissor type. Why are mini ball joints so hard to separate anyway? They're only little. A good tap on the arm and some heat has always worked on all sorts of cars for me, with much bigger bits.




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