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Fitting An Rc40 To A 998 Manifold


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#16 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 23 March 2020 - 11:30 AM

Duplicate

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 23 March 2020 - 11:32 AM.


#17 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 23 March 2020 - 05:04 PM

The down pipe that came with this exhaust seems to be this one - a GEX12052 (looks identical). What I think I need to do is take my down pipe off, match it up with GEX12052, cut the tail ends of both pipes, leaving about 30cm from the flange on the GEX12052 and either slip one over the other and clamp, or weld. I think attempting to clamp would be best with a test fit on the car, then spot weld, remove the exhaust and then weld up?
 
 
However, if I manage to achieve the above, I still need at some point in the future to get a Stage One Kit for my 1310 build, but all of the ones you sell are not designed for Cat exhaust systems? In which case I will probably have to attempt to sell on my modified RC40 setup or go through the same pain again, unless you supply a Stage One kit with a flanged end down pipe, less the RC40 at a discounted price?


#18 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 08:34 PM

Well after painting this morning (as directed by her who must be obeyed at all costs!!) I managed to get out to the garage.

 

I decided to take off my stock 998 exhaust in order to (a) check how bad the hole is in the rear box and (b) see how it compared in length etc to the RC40 setup that I picked up.

 

2sAFB4j.jpg

 

When I compared the size of the flange that fits onto the manifold (by putting one on top of the other) they seems to be almost identical in circumference?

 

So I decided to lay out the RC40 Twin Box, Link Pipe and Manifold under the car to see how it married up. 

It all looked near enough like it would fit.

 

Anyway, I connected the down pipe to the manifold loosely to see whether the bracket on the down pipe bend would marry up with any bolt holes on the existing bracket.

 

JODOU4V.jpg

 

It did look like it would meet up with one of the Diff Bolts holding the bracket on. So I removed the bracket from the Gearbox and bolted the hanger that is welded to the down pipe onto it and tightened up the manifold clamp. After a slight tweek to the bracket the bolt slipped in and I did it up 

 

 

TybgloM.jpg

 

So the down pipe appears to be heading in the right direction.

 

5Vh7syc.jpg

 

On the rear end, there are two brackets on the Twin Box, one (a hanger) welded onto the tail pipe, which lines up with the rear bar on the Sub Frame:

 

3PFZLsf.jpg

 

The other a flat long piece of metal with two holes in it welded onto the pipe between the two silencer boxes, this lines up under the exhaust bracket at the front of the rear sub frame:

 

IpeOnbq.jpg

 

Are these fittings standard and if so what do I need to connect them to my Sub Frame? An RC40 fitting kit



#19 Quinlan minor

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 09:05 PM

I think, but am not sure, this is what you're after.

 

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 



#20 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 11:28 AM

I have managed to find out from the previous owner what has gone on here. He found a picture on his phone of what the previous exhaust looked like, before he bought the RC40 (which his son has now swapped for a Maniflow - hence selling it on).

 

He sent his car, with a new RC40 to be fitted to a local garage. The underside of the car looked like this before they started:

 

0n7obNm.jpg

 

They told him that to fit the RC40 they simply copied what was there before. Sadly what was there before was a complete bodge!!

The garage must have removed the flat bracket that you can make out in the pic above (or made an identical one) and welded it to the RC40. Not sure how they fitted the tail pipe as that has had a hanger welded onto it? 

 

Having scoured the web for info (and there is not a great deal), my plan is to cut off both of these brackets (show below) and use the RC40FK from MiniSpares (also show below):

 

LR5nxgX.jpg

 

ypOYgvO.jpg

 

lXlt1iL.jpg

 

  So using this kit, I think I need to do the following:

  1. Attach mounting (1) to the front of the rear Subframe.

  2. Attach bracket (2) to mounting (1).

  3. Connect the RC40 pipe between the twin boxes to bracket (2) using one of the exhaust clamps (3).

  4. Attach both the bobbins (4) to the rear of the rear Subframe. 

  5. Attach bracket (5) to the bobbins.

  6. Connect the tail pipe of the RC40 to bracket (5) using one of the exhaust clamps (3).

 

If anyone thinks differently let me know.

 

Hopefully I'll also be able to keep this setup for when I fit the 1310, however the Stage One Kit that I think I'll need (this one), comes with a Cooper Freeflow Manilfold that is a slip fitting so not sure what to do there?


Edited by JonnyAlpha, 25 March 2020 - 11:30 AM.


#21 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 07:32 PM

No decorating today or household jobs lined up so this afternoon I decided to have a go at temporarily fitting the exhaust. First job chop off the dodgy bracket between the two boxes.

 

kjzNdaT.jpg

 

E7ANfXY.jpg

 

Cleaned up with a 60 and then 120 grit abrasive wheel:

 

yll61hf.jpg

 

And a splash of weld through primer to stop it rusting.

 

I moved the rear bobbin to the hole further in and lower on the rear of the rear subframe and managed to find a handy piece of flat metal with two holes drilled in it, in the bag of bits that came with the exhaust - rear hanger sorted:

 

2oXDZQv.jpg

 

Whilst sorting out the link pipe, I held the twin box section of the exhaust with some string:

 

E7H1wtc.jpg

 

Then I secured the link pipe:

 

7Mhk5ui.jpg

 

Then I fashioned a temp hanger using a metal coat hanger, Blue Peter fashion:

 

jei9ewJ.jpg

 

And fitted:

 

iXSuUu3.jpg

 

Both rear mounts in place:

 

Wx9TYsM.jpg

 

I then nipped up the bolts on the link pipe and fired up the engine. 

Now it still sounds something out of Mad Max!!

 

First problem - I forgot to plug the hole in the side of the downpipe, I believe this is where a gas sampler goes from the down pipe into the Catalytic Converter - any idea what size bolt I need?

 

Second problem - its very hard getting the front joint of the link pipe flush with the down pipe on your own and lying on your back, you can see the gap!!

 

BeV5cVg.jpg

 

I think the solution is to either get help (not in the current lock down climate) or get it up on some ramps (again not in the current lock down climate)!!

I may try and undo the link pipe at both ends and try and fit it to just the down pipe, the face of the flange seems angled so maybe it needs to go the other way up too?

 

I also need some exhaust gasket paste!!

 

 

 

 

 



#22 Quinlan minor

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 07:41 PM

"The face of the flange seems angled so maybe it needs to go the other way up too?"

That was my first thought! Probably worth a try.

 



#23 sonscar

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 09:39 AM

Try a sparkplug in the downpipe as a temp solution,they are the same size as a lambda sensor,Steve..

#24 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 12:33 PM

Try a sparkplug in the downpipe as a temp solution,they are the same size as a lambda sensor,Steve..

 

Thanks Steve.

 

Is this the correct bung though:

http://www.minispare.../MYB100040.aspx



#25 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 06:27 PM

So after doing some work this morning and tidying up the garage, I put a Spark Plug in the hole in the Down Pipe where the Lambada sensor should go. I also took the link pipe off and rotated it. Now it is a much better fit and sounds sweet. Not as loud as thought it might be and will still need some Exhaust paste ion the joints for an MOT?

 

I also found a sticker on the box and confirmed that this is a C-STR812, but looks like one before they fitted the hangers?

 

 

qiuBc4I.jpg

 

gJ7VNHF.jpg

 

I have been advised to get the twin bolt manifold clamp to hold the down pipe to the exhaust manifold - like the GEX7046

 

Here is a short video of it running. 


Edited by JonnyAlpha, 01 April 2020 - 11:37 AM.





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