7 replies to this topic

[Alburglar]

What do you reckon folks. I believe it to be one of two things but am open to suggestions.

First thought is due to car being fibreglass (therefore has to earth on engine) and struggles to get much oomph from the battery.

Secound thought is that race spec 1330cc with lumpy Kent 276 cam is struggling to get enough fuel from 1 3/4 inch SU. So would a correctly jetted weber help?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

[miniman5]

same thing with highly tuned engines n stuff they get more unreliable the more midified they get i duno y the car wont start tho

[Alburglar]

Yeah but everything can be fixed, it's justr that you have to fix stuff more often.

[Purple Tom]

if it struggles to start when hot chances are its running rich, as its being over fuelled so just floods. You can sometimes cure it by starting it with the throttle wide open, this gives it more air.

I know these are the symptoms with mine, it still starts but cranks for about 2 seconds before starting when hot, rather than instantly when cold.

[bluebottle]

i wouldn't have thought it was an earthing problem, if it was it wouldn't run in the first place. ive had that happen to my car.

[Alburglar]

I'll get it on the rollers once s/c box is in. So i'll look at fueling then.
Thanks for your help folks
Any other idea's?

[Brawlyrox]

U prob get it sussed while its on rollers, as an experienced tuner should be able to tell you, if its running rich etc.

[Dan]

Could be electrical, some small block Chevy's won't start hot and that's an electrical thing. You fix it with a 40A relay. I'm not sure exactly why this is or what's happening though, and I've never heard of it on anything else.

Do you have all the heat isolators between the manifold and carb, and a heat shield for it by the way? 'because it could be fuel vaporisation in the jet if it only does it when it's been left to stand hot for a while. Especially if the cam is lumpy at idle anyway.