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Painting Mini Wheels - Which Primer/paint/gloss Lacquer?


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#1 proccy13

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Posted 24 March 2020 - 09:01 PM

Hi all,

 

I was wondering which paints (primer/paint/gloss lacquer) would be best to paint the wheels in the pic attached after the required prep work is done.

 

I don't want primer and other layers reacting together so please can someone explains which paints do this, and avoid, and provide the links of the primer, basecoat and and gloss lacquer (please provide links) 

for a high black gloss finish to match the second photo!

 

Any other tips are well received!

 

Thanks!

 

 

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#2 proccy13

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 05:56 PM

any ideas??



#3 Furyan

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 01:03 AM

You don't say whether you will be using a spray gun and compressor or using spray cans.

 

Here's a decent guide to refurbing wheels

 

http://www.theminifo...painting wheels

 

If your using spray cans as in the guide above then Halfords spray paints are as good as any, so a few  tins of etch primer, black gloss of your choice and some clear laquer.

 

 

 

 



#4 sonikk4

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 09:12 AM

I have done a couple of sets using Halford rattle cans.

Wheels were blasted first, repaired where required then etch primed, filler primed, flatted back, grey primer again flatted back, panel wiped then my lad choose a Gunmetal Metallic base coat, so three good coats of that. Left to dry for a while ( I also used a heat gun to help speed up the process) then three coats of lacquer.

These were mini special wheels he had converted to split rims by Force racing.

I have done another set of Exactons (not the mini special wheels) using Halfords steel wheel paint using the same process.

#5 bluedragon

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Posted 28 March 2020 - 05:49 AM

When it comes to reactions of coats and basecoats, it's very hard to make any generalizations. The safest approach is to use the same primers, color coats, and clear coats (if you go that route) from the same manufacturer as part of a compatible product line. Anything else is just a guess - some guesses less risky than others, but a guess nonetheless.

 

For informational purposes, let's rate products by durability:

 

1) Epoxies

2) Isocyanate-hardened 2K polyurethane

3) Isocyanate-hardened 2K urethane

4) 2K enamel non-isocyanate/non-iso urethane

5) non-2K enamel (most spray can enamels)

6) Cellulose/lacquer

 

For a base primer, choose one compatible with a paint type you want to use. Usually an epoxy can be the base for anything. A good urethane primer or etch primer as well. But if you use a cellulose primer, don't try putting a 2K on top of it.

 

For wheels, if you use it as a daily driver with lots of miles and infrequent cleanings, I'd choose either a isocyanate based paint or powdercoating. The reason for this is the plague of brake dust. Brake dust will easily attack and bond to cellulose finishes.

 

Unless you constantly clean the wheels they'll get permanently dirty fast, and the inflexible cellulose will flake off if the wheel gets a lot of hot and cold cycles from heavy braking. I view it as suitable only on a show car that sees few miles with hard braking and is promptly cleaned when brake dust appears. (or if cellulose is the only form that a specific color appears in.)

 

2K is much more durable but will still need regular cleaning, just not as often. (indeed, even powder coated or polyurethane wheels need this - note that even factory OEM wheels can be permanently stained and coating with brake dust if neglected.)

 

But if it's a show car or driven rarely, then these aren't so important.

 

Returning to your base question - decide what level of durability you want, and then just go to your local paint shop and order the series of products from the brand of your preference to do the job, using the technology that meets your durability demands. (i.e. polyurethane, 2K, spray can, cellulose.)

 

 

Dave



#6 weef

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Posted 30 March 2020 - 09:59 PM

Powder coating is a good option. The origional finish is blast cleaned off giving the advantage of cleaning both the inner and outer faces. Nothing looks worse than looking through the spokes and seeing a poor surface.

The duotone design can be achieved by masking up and applying whatever base colour you want on the preferred areas and then the final topcoat applied with whatever finish that is required e.g. matt,satin or gloss.






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