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Problem With Pick-Up Fuel Tank Fit


Best Answer DeadSquare , 27 March 2020 - 10:35 PM

Yes.  On a countryman

 

The neck won't bend, but by hitting the tank round one side of the neck with a brass drift and denting it, I pulled the neck across.

 

Thinking about it later, I was probably lucky that the tank didn't "pull away" from the neck as I dented it.

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#1 KTS

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 10:16 PM

i've hit a problem fitting the tank back on the pick-up and would appreciate some advice on the best way forward

 

lines up OK with the back and front mounting points

 

aockMIg.jpg

pW2TOn4.jpg

 

..but the neck is way off centre where it meets the bodywork.

 

UIYXZW7.jpg

qy4h2jc.jpg

 

 

anyone else had this issue ?  

 

tempted to try and bend the neck to get it to fit, but thought i'd better check if anyone else has hit the same issue and how they resolved it

 

cheers



#2 cal844

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 10:35 PM

We had exactly this issue when fitting a new tank on a 1980 Clubman Estate. We ended up bending the neck but use extreme caution because if you bend the cap flange it will cause issues.

Also remember that you'll have the insert and the rubber anti rattle grommet to account for.

Iirc we moved the tank forward on the screws, not that it made that much difference.

If it's just spot welded you could modify the neck on the tank (I'd only recommend this as a totally last resort.) With a piece of suitable rubber to offset it.

#3 DeadSquare

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 10:35 PM   Best Answer

Yes.  On a countryman

 

The neck won't bend, but by hitting the tank round one side of the neck with a brass drift and denting it, I pulled the neck across.

 

Thinking about it later, I was probably lucky that the tank didn't "pull away" from the neck as I dented it.



#4 Homersimpson

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 10:46 PM

If you loosen the mounts at the front of the tank does it improve things? If so can you put a spacer in here?

 

I might be tempted to stick a bar down the neck and gently try and persuade it over taking care not to bend where the filler sits.

 

On a completely unrelated note, make sure the cap you fit is vented.  My dad had one that sucked the tank in because the wrong cap had been fitted and the mechanical pump was able to generate enough pressure to colapse the tank.



#5 KTS

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 11:31 PM

We had exactly this issue when fitting a new tank on a 1980 Clubman Estate. We ended up bending the neck but use extreme caution because if you bend the cap flange it will cause issues.

Also remember that you'll have the insert and the rubber anti rattle grommet to account for.

Iirc we moved the tank forward on the screws, not that it made that much difference.

If it's just spot welded you could modify the neck on the tank (I'd only recommend this as a totally last resort.) With a piece of suitable rubber to offset it.

 

thanks - i'll try and figure out some sort of packing to protect the flanges faces when i try 

 

i had to take the insert out just to get the tank in place - with the insert in, the top of the neck doesn't clear the top of the anti rattle grommet so wouldn't be able to fit the cap, and the mounting flange on the front of the tank is a good inch away from the panel the screws should fix to

 

 

 

Yes.  On a countryman

 

The neck won't bend, but by hitting the tank round one side of the neck with a brass drift and denting it, I pulled the neck across.

 

Thinking about it later, I was probably lucky that the tank didn't "pull away" from the neck as I dented it.

 

OK, thanks. i was wondering whether i could try and punch the tank itself in around the neck to encourage it over, but attacking the neck itself may be a bit more controllable

 

 

If you loosen the mounts at the front of the tank does it improve things? If so can you put a spacer in here?

 

I might be tempted to stick a bar down the neck and gently try and persuade it over taking care not to bend where the filler sits.

 

On a completely unrelated note, make sure the cap you fit is vented.  My dad had one that sucked the tank in because the wrong cap had been fitted and the mechanical pump was able to generate enough pressure to colapse the tank.

 

yes, loosening the front fixings does help, but to get it to line up with the insert in the side panel means i need to loosen it off an inch or more, and at that point the neck is too low to get the cap on.

 

nice new lockable vented cap is in the draw ready to fit when the tank is in.  appreciate the tip though. cheers

 

 

 

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.  looks like it's time to get the big hammer out, and maybe the ram from the engine hoist and see if i can persuade it to go where i want it.

 

shame the tank's already been painted.  may need a little touching up by the time i've finished  :ohno:



#6 IronmanG

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Posted 28 March 2020 - 07:41 AM

Is this the original tank from before the respray?

#7 KTS

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Posted 28 March 2020 - 08:58 AM

Is this the original tank from before the respray?

 

yes, same tank, different side panel 



#8 nev100

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Posted 28 March 2020 - 09:15 AM

No criticism....but I presume you didn't test fit before painting ?

I found on my van that after replacing a new rear valence I couldnt get the tank fitted.
Distance between rear valence closing panel and load bed strengthener was too narrow.
I had to move rear valence out a bit. Still tight....!!

You'll find a solution. Best of luck.

#9 KTS

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Posted 28 March 2020 - 09:42 AM

No criticism....but I presume you didn't test fit before painting ?

I found on my van that after replacing a new rear valence I couldnt get the tank fitted.
Distance between rear valence closing panel and load bed strengthener was too narrow.
I had to move rear valence out a bit. Still tight....!!

You'll find a solution. Best of luck.

 

cheers

 

strangely enough that's one of the few areas of the pick-up that wasn't touched during the resto  :lol:

 

the side panel was replaced, so it's likely a combination of that and a previously poorly fitted tank (..i didn't pay that much attention to how the tank was fitted during the tear down, so can't be sure) that's at play



#10 KTS

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 06:55 PM

got there in the end following Deadsquares' advice - took some doing mind !

 

strapped & clamped the tank down to the engine hoist to stop it moving and tensioned the neck in the direction i thought it should move

 

uQUy8gi.jpg

 

..and set about the bottom of the neck with some brass bar i found in the "might come in handy one day" box

 

RANXpnV.jpg

 

now it fits  :proud:

 

nSMwE5L.jpg 

 

to give an idea of just how much it needed to move to fit, here it is next to a spare tank

 

08fkw9A.jpg



#11 IronmanG

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 07:15 PM

Wow. Good job. On a side note seeing as you had your head stuck underneath. Is there any way at all of increasing the size of the tank.
Is it possible to fit a pump inside the tank

#12 KTS

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 08:36 PM

Cheers

I don't see why an internal pump couldn't be fitted - the obvious place would be where the fuel gauge sender normally fits. Whether a pump exists that'll fit there is another question, as is what you'd do for a fuel gauge...

There's not much scope for making the tank bigger really; can't go back (valance), or down (ground clearance), or lengthen (exhaust). Back of the subframe is only an inch or so from the front of the tank, but only along the top of the tank, so the bottom half of the tank could possibly be extended forward under the subframe, but would make fitting the tank or removing the subframe a bit of a challenge.

I think you'd need a very good reason to need to do it

#13 IronmanG

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 08:47 PM

Ok rgds size.
Would an mpi pump fit inside?

#14 KTS

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Posted 29 March 2020 - 09:29 PM

Sorry, no idea on that one




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