23 replies to this topic

[I hate Brian]

Hi all hope everyone's safe and well, as the title says has anyone used an engine lifting bracket using the exhaust/ inlet manifold studs ? I've seen a post on facebook I think a German tuning company PRM Malberg 

Attached Files

•  lifting bracket.jpg   86.4K   16 downloads

[imack]

The engine needs lifting on the front head studs to tilt it slightly to clear the subframe, especially if it's a remote box as pictured.

[DeadSquare]

No.

 

Especially with a cooper remote diff housing.

 

That really is a case of "vorsprung durch technic"............Who would want to blindly fiddle with TWO nuts under a bit of angle iron instead of one on the center front head stud, and then have the engine hanging "nose heavy" trying to get the diff housing out from under the cross piece of the subframe. ???

Edited by Moke Spider, 29 March 2020 - 05:50 PM.
Mind the tone and attitude please

[blacktulip]

From experience last night, it definitely needs pulling from the front as said. Lovely clean engine there though.

[InnoCooperExport]

I don´t know how they could ever thing about lifting it like that. The bracket gives the impression they did spend time making it but why not use the headstuds like everybody else? 

[I hate Brian]

So my predicament is that I've had my engine rebuilt and there isn't any spare thread on the head bolts to attach the lifting brackets I have and I really don't want to undo the nuts, which I think if I did there would only be on a few threads anyway if I fitted the brackets (Minispares)

Edited by I hate Brian, 29 March 2020 - 11:34 AM.

[nicklouse]

I would say that is more of a bracket for shifting it about the workshop and into transport rather than installing it in a Mini.

[imack]

I never like the idea of releasing head stud nuts to attach lifting eyes if I'm not planning on replacing the head gasket but the reality is that it's never caused me a problem. I've never had gasket issues removing rocker assemblies either.
I'm surprised you've got inadequate thread exposed on the studs to attach the lifting eyes though.

[I hate Brian]

Hi please see attached as previously stated this engine has been rebuilt by Keith Calver and not fitted as waiting for bodywork finishing on the respray,

so anyone got suggestions for the eventual engine fitting ??

Attached Files

•  20200329_143532.jpg   47.46K   2 downloads
•  20200329_143542.jpg   53.69K   1 downloads

Edited by I hate Brian, 29 March 2020 - 01:42 PM.

[barnyard]

Remove the rocker cover and use the longer studs where the cover attaches. For a rod change box it’s ok balance wise, for a remote/ magic wand it could do with the pivot being a little further forward.

Spares sell suitable brackets 12a1968

Edited by barnyard, 29 March 2020 - 02:14 PM.

[DeadSquare]

Hi please see attached as previously stated this engine has been rebuilt by Keith Calver and not fitted as waiting for bodywork finishing on the respray,

so anyone got suggestions for the eventual engine fitting ??

 

Do you mean lifting the engine, as in a hoist, or a sling, as in a loop of rope under the sump ?

[I hate Brian]

Hi lifting the engine using a hoist

[alex-95]

Hi lifting the engine using a hoist

 

 

I just use some rope looped under the gearbox, just watch it doesn't get in the way of the pot joints when fitting.

[Spider]

As others has suggested, I nearly always use the Front Centre Head Stud. It puts the engine at the right angle to slip the diff under the subframe.

 

I also made another simple bracket, that's bolts on at an angle, to the Alternator Bracket Holes. I've drilled it at an angle such that the hole for the lifting shackle is on the same center as the Center Head Stud, only further forward of that. I find this one is better too for Engines fitted with Remote type Gearboxes.

[I hate Brian]

Hi with respect to most of the suggestions this still doesn't give me a clear way of installing the engine, again I really don't want to remove any head nuts and I do appreciate all comments.

Thanks in anticipation