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Spi Not Starting


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#1 7builder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 12:16 PM

I got the Spi out of storage the other day and drove it around to the house without any problem other than the fact it was idling at 1700 rpm. Today I tried starting it to figure out what is wrong but it wont start now. 

When I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump prime then stop but when I start the car it fires up then immediately cuts out. If I then start the car a second time it just turns over and doesn't fire. I don't here the pump prime either. If I leave it for a few minutes I can hear the fuel pump prime and it goes through the same procedure again. It fires momentarily, cuts out then wont start.
I have a code reader and I have found one fault code (coolant sensor) and an ambient temperature reading of 200 degrees.

Can anyone suggest what I can try or what the issue might be?



#2 dmandan

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 01:02 PM

Have you tried resetting the inertia switch for the fuel pump? just a thought...

 

I also have the amb reading of 200deg be very interested to hear what people say about that.



#3 humph

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 01:51 PM

The ambient temp on all spi cars will read 200 degrees, it's the default.

 

What are you doing when the car cuts out? Is it just sitting idling? Does it happen when you give it a bit of throttle?



#4 7builder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 01:51 PM

Have you tried resetting the inertia switch for the fuel pump? just a thought...

 

I also have the amb reading of 200deg be very interested to hear what people say about that.

 

Hi dmandan, yes I have but still no joy.

I'm getting twitchy now as the Mini is usually tucked away in an alarmed lockup away from prying eyes but is now sat on the drive and currently uninsured. Only good thing I guess is that no thief is going to drive it away but I really would like to get it started and back under cover



#5 7builder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 01:53 PM

The ambient temp on all spi cars will read 200 degrees, it's the default.

 

What are you doing when the car cuts out? Is it just sitting idling? Does it happen when you give it a bit of throttle?

 

Hi Humph,

 

The car basically goes vroom and cuts out. Then on second attempt just turns over and over, with a strong smell of fuel



#6 dmandan

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 02:40 PM

 

Have you tried resetting the inertia switch for the fuel pump? just a thought...

 

I also have the amb reading of 200deg be very interested to hear what people say about that.

 

Hi dmandan, yes I have but still no joy.

I'm getting twitchy now as the Mini is usually tucked away in an alarmed lockup away from prying eyes but is now sat on the drive and currently uninsured. Only good thing I guess is that no thief is going to drive it away but I really would like to get it started and back under cover

 

 

Buy a shotgun should keep the lightfingered ******* away from your doorstep...



#7 7builder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 02:59 PM

 

 

Have you tried resetting the inertia switch for the fuel pump? just a thought...

 

I also have the amb reading of 200deg be very interested to hear what people say about that.

 

Hi dmandan, yes I have but still no joy.

I'm getting twitchy now as the Mini is usually tucked away in an alarmed lockup away from prying eyes but is now sat on the drive and currently uninsured. Only good thing I guess is that no thief is going to drive it away but I really would like to get it started and back under cover

 

 

Buy a shotgun should keep the lightfingered ******* away from your doorstep...

 

 

:D



#8 7builder

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 10:41 AM

I've been trying all morning to sort out the non starter but no success. I'm glad I didn't actually buy a shotgun or I would have turned it on myself by now.

If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate it as I am stuck. 



#9 xrocketengineer

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 01:40 PM

When turning over but not starting, is there fuel coming out of the injector and spark at the plugs?

#10 7builder

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 06:29 PM

When turning over but not starting, is there fuel coming out of the injector and spark at the plugs?

 

Hi xrocketengineer since writing my last post I have been busy laying a concrete slab for a shed so haven't had a chance to look at the mini. The short answer to your question is, I have to go back to basics and double check. I think I have fuel ok because when it turns over but doesn't start you get a strong smell of fuel after a few seconds.

I will check it is getting to the throttle body though as well as the spark and also check the coil is working as it should.

Thanks for your reply and I will update you shortly.



#11 xrocketengineer

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 09:46 PM

Well, if you get neither or the tach is erratic while cranking the suspect would be the crank sensor.  If you have no spark only, the coil could be suspect but the distributor cap and rotor should be replaced first.



#12 viz139

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 09:59 AM

Try looking for a loose electrical connection around the coil or crank sensor. Are your engine steady bushes in good condition, engine not moving? 



#13 7builder

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 08:03 PM

Evening guys, thanks for your input. I will be working on the mini tomorrow so will go through all of your suggestions before reporting back.

Viz139, the engine steadies were replaced a couple of years ago and are solid now. The engine used to rock so much that it smashed the cover off the fuse box and I've never found a replacement since.



#14 7builder

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 08:19 PM

Right, I was able to spend some time trying to figure out what is going on today.

The crank sensor wiring looked to be good and I have fuel so turned my investigation to the electrical system and found that the spark at the plugs is there but really weak and orange, more like a sparkler than a big blue bolt of lightning. I tested the resistance on the LT and HT side of the coil and it was within spec according to the Haynes manual. I then removed the HT lead from the distributor and held it a small distance from the engine block and got a huge spark so I am happy the coil is working fine. Next I removed the distributor cap and found that the rotor and 4 posts in the cap are in a poor condition so would I be right in thinking this could be where the problem lies as it looks like I have a good HT voltage as far as the distributor but a poor output to the spark plugs?



#15 viz139

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 08:59 PM

Sounds like a good place to start, also check that the dizzy is at the right angle. If you can look at it in the dark with somebody else cranking it you can check to see if there is any arcing going on.






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