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1275 Gt - Metro Turbo 1310 Engine Project


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#76 Steve220

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 03:32 PM

That is a variable pressure sensor, not a switch. It's designed for a pressure gauge, not the light.

Edited by Steve220, 01 July 2020 - 03:33 PM.


#77 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 04:04 PM

That is a variable pressure sensor, not a switch. It's designed for a pressure gauge, not the light.

 

My plan is to use both. i want to connect the oil warning light on original 1275gt clock set using standard pressure switch already connected to the engine, but also add the VDO pressure gauge shown in the previous pictures. Using the steel fitting I can add both, with a little modification to the fittings. I hope.. Im sure there will be lots of confusion when it comes to getting it all to work correctly.



#78 Steve220

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 05:08 PM

So it's a 3 way adapter? Switch, sensor and turbo oil feed?

#79 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 05:17 PM



So it's a 3 way adapter? Switch, sensor and turbo oil feed?

 

Thats it. The picture below was from internet searching to find how ERA originally did it. It looks like steel pipe off the block to the turbo with the long steel fitting screwed into it with sender and sensor attached. Its not a very clear picture but i think it should work to allow both to be fitted. 

 

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#80 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 19 July 2020 - 06:44 PM

Engine 

 

Still building. think finally all parts will be here in the next couple of weeks. 

 

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Edited by Project_1275_GT, 19 July 2020 - 06:51 PM.


#81 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 08:01 PM

Finally after many problems with parts and quality I have managed to almost complete the engine. Still a lot more with hoses cables and bits to do but pretty much finished. Soon it will be time for the body work.

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#82 floormanager

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 08:26 PM

Can I had a word of caution / advice?  Back in the day, to my MK1 Turbo (wish I still had it), I fitted a T piece and an electric oil pressure gauge like you've got.  All was fine for a while then the T piece cracked off in the block, leaking oil everywhere.  I used a stud extractor to get the piece of the T piece out of the block, only to watch the block split and a thumb sized piece split off!! I had to take the engine out, strip it and get the block stitched at a local engineering firm.  Every time I see a T piece in the oil pressure threads I shudder.  I might have been unlucky, but with the electric sender, it's a lot of weight vibrating on a small thread.



#83 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 11:34 AM

Can I had a word of caution / advice?  Back in the day, to my MK1 Turbo (wish I still had it), I fitted a T piece and an electric oil pressure gauge like you've got.  All was fine for a while then the T piece cracked off in the block, leaking oil everywhere.  I used a stud extractor to get the piece of the T piece out of the block, only to watch the block split and a thumb sized piece split off!! I had to take the engine out, strip it and get the block stitched at a local engineering firm.  Every time I see a T piece in the oil pressure threads I shudder.  I might have been unlucky, but with the electric sender, it's a lot of weight vibrating on a small thread.


Thanks for the info. I have used two large connectors for this area. Is this what you did?

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#84 floormanager

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 07:49 PM

I'm going back 33 years but if I recall correctly, the std oil pressure sender controlled the oil light and the fuel pump on a metro turbo.. I fitted a std oil pressure T piece and fitted a TIM electric oil pressure gauge.  I'm trying to recall, but the oil feed for the turbo came off the oil cooler connection.  I am sure there was an insert in the oil pressure switch feed, which the sender and then the T piece screwed into.  Anyway, with all that weight on the small thread caused the failure.  I then made a bad situation worse by splitting the block to remove the remnants of the thread.  I vowed never again to fit a T piece and an electric oil pressure gauge sender unit, nor use thread extractors

 

I hope, someone out there, has a MG turbo block with a stitched block

Paiul



#85 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 01:17 PM

Engine update 

 

Been a little slow updating the build. Health has been poor recently. The engine is pretty much complete. I still have some work to do with hoses and rad mount but this will prob get finished when its fitted to the car. Next plan is to complete the refurb of all other car components. Get everything ready, then boxed until the shell is finished. Hopefully it will then be a case of remove refurbished components and fit to the car.  

 

I have assembled all the pictures of the engine build and compiled a video. Added some dodgy music and uploaded to you tube. Here is the link if anyone is interested.

 

https://youtu.be/abuvD7iQ-GQ

 

 

Due to health it may be some time until the shell refurb is started. Need an op and wont be able to work for 3 months. I will update when i can 

 

Thanks for all comments, likes and guidance given through the engine build 



#86 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 02:35 PM

The Engine Spec

 

Guess i should list what the final build spec is. My aim was to build a very standard [as close to original as possible] Metro turbo / ERA turbo engine. This has proved challenging as many parts are very hard to find these days. I hope to achieve 100 bhp + Anything above 100 is a bonus. I want the car to be fast, reliable and smooth. 

 

Engine 

 

1275 metro turbo engine - Re-bored to +40 = 1310

Pistons - Mini spares Mega piston and ring set

Standard turbo crank - CAM 6581 - Polished STD 

King crank bearings STD

Mini spares duplex steel vernier timing with IWIS chain

Mini spares EVO 001 cam

ACL cam bearings

ACL big end bearings

Standard con rods

MED con rod bolts

Cooper type crank shaft damper

 

Turbo Head 12G940

 

Mini spares turbo valves inlet and exhaust [standard size]

New double spring set

ARP bolt set 

Hardened valve seats [3 angle]

Original MG valve stem oil seals

Original rocker set - new shaft 

Standard pushrods 

BK450 head gasket

 

Timing at 107 deg

Compression ratio 9.4/1

 

Gearbox

 

3.44 final drive - standard gear set

Mini spares performance baulk rings

All new bearings [main bearings RHP]

Central oil pickup 

All new seals 

Re bushed diff housings

X pin diff

Comp lay shaft

Economy primary gear and idle gear [changes final drive to around 3.3 - Very close to original 3.2 turbo box]

MED lightened steel flywheel [balanced assembly]

Genuine AP clutch plate 

Genuine Turbo Verto pressure plate

Genuine AP hydraulic cylinder 

 

Carb and Turbo 

 

Genuine Garret T3 [New old stock] standard actuator 

Standard plenium chamber [rebuilt]

Standard HIF44 turbo carb [rebuilt with turbo kit. New green spring new BCE needle]

Standard inlet and exhaust manifolds [refurbed]

Standard fuel pressure valve

SPI fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines and filter

Metro turbo filter housing [K&N filter]

Genuine metro turbo oil cooler 

Clubman braided oil cooler hoses

Goodridge oil feed for turbo

Special fittings for oil pressure switch and electronic oil pressure gauge

 

Cooling System

 

Mini spares 4 core rad [drain plug modded for electronic temp gauge sensor]

Silicone hoses adapted to suit engine

Inline heater valve

New heater matrix internal

82 deg thermostat

 

Electronic ignition 

 

59DM4 distributor 

Intermotor electronic sports coil

Lucas ignition amplifier module 

Champion RN7YC 



#87 Jase

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 10:31 PM

Good luck with the op,  I hope your health improves. Fantastic build, looking forward to seeing more progress.



#88 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 04:27 PM

Next stage of the project

 

Health still sucks. Not been able to do anything for some weeks now. But I have managed to tidy a few more bits on the engine and its now covered and placed safely in storage. Im still trying to tidy the garage to a point I can actually work on the shell. Seems impossible. Just never enough room. I have sold some parts that are not needed but still seem to have almost 2 minis in parts taking up loads of room. As a little side project [to clear some space] I am now going to build an old 998 engine thats in my way. 


Edited by Project_1275_GT, 03 December 2020 - 05:34 PM.


#89 Jase

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Posted 18 October 2020 - 09:27 PM

Focus on your health. It's frustrating but best wait until all of this is over and you are back to your old self. Very impressed with the engine build. Where did you get the pulleys?



#90 Project_1275_GT

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Posted 25 October 2020 - 02:50 PM



Focus on your health. It's frustrating but best wait until all of this is over and you are back to your old self. Very impressed with the engine build. Where did you get the pulleys?

 

Hi 

 

Do you mean the crank damper and water pump pulley? If so the water pump pulley is old original, shot blast, then painted and the crank damper pulley is cooper s type from mini spares. These are reported to be better, not sure why really. Again painted to match the other pulleys. Added a few more pics of the engine before it was moved in to storage. Im still trying to clear more space in the garage. Hope to soon be able to get to the shell.. 

 

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