Edited by Steve220, 01 July 2020 - 03:33 PM.
1275 Gt - Metro Turbo 1310 Engine Project
#76
Posted 01 July 2020 - 03:32 PM
#77
Posted 01 July 2020 - 04:04 PM
That is a variable pressure sensor, not a switch. It's designed for a pressure gauge, not the light.
My plan is to use both. i want to connect the oil warning light on original 1275gt clock set using standard pressure switch already connected to the engine, but also add the VDO pressure gauge shown in the previous pictures. Using the steel fitting I can add both, with a little modification to the fittings. I hope.. Im sure there will be lots of confusion when it comes to getting it all to work correctly.
#78
Posted 01 July 2020 - 05:08 PM
#79
Posted 01 July 2020 - 05:17 PM
So it's a 3 way adapter? Switch, sensor and turbo oil feed?
Thats it. The picture below was from internet searching to find how ERA originally did it. It looks like steel pipe off the block to the turbo with the long steel fitting screwed into it with sender and sensor attached. Its not a very clear picture but i think it should work to allow both to be fitted.
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#80
Posted 19 July 2020 - 06:44 PM
Engine
Still building. think finally all parts will be here in the next couple of weeks.
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Edited by Project_1275_GT, 19 July 2020 - 06:51 PM.
#81
Posted 05 August 2020 - 08:01 PM
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#82
Posted 05 August 2020 - 08:26 PM
Can I had a word of caution / advice? Back in the day, to my MK1 Turbo (wish I still had it), I fitted a T piece and an electric oil pressure gauge like you've got. All was fine for a while then the T piece cracked off in the block, leaking oil everywhere. I used a stud extractor to get the piece of the T piece out of the block, only to watch the block split and a thumb sized piece split off!! I had to take the engine out, strip it and get the block stitched at a local engineering firm. Every time I see a T piece in the oil pressure threads I shudder. I might have been unlucky, but with the electric sender, it's a lot of weight vibrating on a small thread.
#83
Posted 06 August 2020 - 11:34 AM
Can I had a word of caution / advice? Back in the day, to my MK1 Turbo (wish I still had it), I fitted a T piece and an electric oil pressure gauge like you've got. All was fine for a while then the T piece cracked off in the block, leaking oil everywhere. I used a stud extractor to get the piece of the T piece out of the block, only to watch the block split and a thumb sized piece split off!! I had to take the engine out, strip it and get the block stitched at a local engineering firm. Every time I see a T piece in the oil pressure threads I shudder. I might have been unlucky, but with the electric sender, it's a lot of weight vibrating on a small thread.
Thanks for the info. I have used two large connectors for this area. Is this what you did?
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#84
Posted 06 August 2020 - 07:49 PM
I'm going back 33 years but if I recall correctly, the std oil pressure sender controlled the oil light and the fuel pump on a metro turbo.. I fitted a std oil pressure T piece and fitted a TIM electric oil pressure gauge. I'm trying to recall, but the oil feed for the turbo came off the oil cooler connection. I am sure there was an insert in the oil pressure switch feed, which the sender and then the T piece screwed into. Anyway, with all that weight on the small thread caused the failure. I then made a bad situation worse by splitting the block to remove the remnants of the thread. I vowed never again to fit a T piece and an electric oil pressure gauge sender unit, nor use thread extractors
I hope, someone out there, has a MG turbo block with a stitched block
Paiul
#85
Posted 23 August 2020 - 01:17 PM
Engine update
Been a little slow updating the build. Health has been poor recently. The engine is pretty much complete. I still have some work to do with hoses and rad mount but this will prob get finished when its fitted to the car. Next plan is to complete the refurb of all other car components. Get everything ready, then boxed until the shell is finished. Hopefully it will then be a case of remove refurbished components and fit to the car.
I have assembled all the pictures of the engine build and compiled a video. Added some dodgy music and uploaded to you tube. Here is the link if anyone is interested.
Due to health it may be some time until the shell refurb is started. Need an op and wont be able to work for 3 months. I will update when i can
Thanks for all comments, likes and guidance given through the engine build
#86
Posted 23 August 2020 - 02:35 PM
The Engine Spec
Guess i should list what the final build spec is. My aim was to build a very standard [as close to original as possible] Metro turbo / ERA turbo engine. This has proved challenging as many parts are very hard to find these days. I hope to achieve 100 bhp + Anything above 100 is a bonus. I want the car to be fast, reliable and smooth.
Engine
1275 metro turbo engine - Re-bored to +40 = 1310
Pistons - Mini spares Mega piston and ring set
Standard turbo crank - CAM 6581 - Polished STD
King crank bearings STD
Mini spares duplex steel vernier timing with IWIS chain
Mini spares EVO 001 cam
ACL cam bearings
ACL big end bearings
Standard con rods
MED con rod bolts
Cooper type crank shaft damper
Turbo Head 12G940
Mini spares turbo valves inlet and exhaust [standard size]
New double spring set
ARP bolt set
Hardened valve seats [3 angle]
Original MG valve stem oil seals
Original rocker set - new shaft
Standard pushrods
BK450 head gasket
Timing at 107 deg
Compression ratio 9.4/1
Gearbox
3.44 final drive - standard gear set
Mini spares performance baulk rings
All new bearings [main bearings RHP]
Central oil pickup
All new seals
Re bushed diff housings
X pin diff
Comp lay shaft
Economy primary gear and idle gear [changes final drive to around 3.3 - Very close to original 3.2 turbo box]
MED lightened steel flywheel [balanced assembly]
Genuine AP clutch plate
Genuine Turbo Verto pressure plate
Genuine AP hydraulic cylinder
Carb and Turbo
Genuine Garret T3 [New old stock] standard actuator
Standard plenium chamber [rebuilt]
Standard HIF44 turbo carb [rebuilt with turbo kit. New green spring new BCE needle]
Standard inlet and exhaust manifolds [refurbed]
Standard fuel pressure valve
SPI fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines and filter
Metro turbo filter housing [K&N filter]
Genuine metro turbo oil cooler
Clubman braided oil cooler hoses
Goodridge oil feed for turbo
Special fittings for oil pressure switch and electronic oil pressure gauge
Cooling System
Mini spares 4 core rad [drain plug modded for electronic temp gauge sensor]
Silicone hoses adapted to suit engine
Inline heater valve
New heater matrix internal
82 deg thermostat
Electronic ignition
59DM4 distributor
Intermotor electronic sports coil
Lucas ignition amplifier module
Champion RN7YC
#87
Posted 23 August 2020 - 10:31 PM
Good luck with the op, I hope your health improves. Fantastic build, looking forward to seeing more progress.
#88
Posted 27 September 2020 - 04:27 PM
Next stage of the project
Health still sucks. Not been able to do anything for some weeks now. But I have managed to tidy a few more bits on the engine and its now covered and placed safely in storage. Im still trying to tidy the garage to a point I can actually work on the shell. Seems impossible. Just never enough room. I have sold some parts that are not needed but still seem to have almost 2 minis in parts taking up loads of room. As a little side project [to clear some space] I am now going to build an old 998 engine thats in my way.
Edited by Project_1275_GT, 03 December 2020 - 05:34 PM.
#89
Posted 18 October 2020 - 09:27 PM
Focus on your health. It's frustrating but best wait until all of this is over and you are back to your old self. Very impressed with the engine build. Where did you get the pulleys?
#90
Posted 25 October 2020 - 02:50 PM
Focus on your health. It's frustrating but best wait until all of this is over and you are back to your old self. Very impressed with the engine build. Where did you get the pulleys?
Hi
Do you mean the crank damper and water pump pulley? If so the water pump pulley is old original, shot blast, then painted and the crank damper pulley is cooper s type from mini spares. These are reported to be better, not sure why really. Again painted to match the other pulleys. Added a few more pics of the engine before it was moved in to storage. Im still trying to clear more space in the garage. Hope to soon be able to get to the shell..
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