14 replies to this topic

[kkeith]

Hi,

Removing engine for a gearbox rebuild. All going well considering first time doing It. Last major part to do is the driveshaft. Question is, to get to it do I need to remove the entire hub or just separate the ball joints and undo the suspension arms? A short how to guide some be great as the Hanes manual hasn’t helped in this case.

Thanks!

[kkeith]

Hi,

Removing engine for a gearbox rebuild. All going well considering first time doing It. Last major part to do is the driveshaft. Question is, to get to it do I need to remove the entire hub or just separate the ball joints and undo the suspension arms? A short how to guide some be great as the Hanes manual hasn’t helped in this case.

Thanks!

Sorry I mean disconnecting the pot joints

[MiniMadRacer]

i break the top ball joint and release it from the taper> this allows the hub to be dropped  down enough to release the drive shafts from the gear box

[kkeith]

i break the top ball joint and release it from the taper> this allows the hub to be dropped down enough to release the drive shafts from the gear box

Ah ok, then I just need to separate the pot joints from the diff (with the tool).

Thanks - I was trying to avoid having to take the whole hub off but sounds like I don’t need to.

Edited by kkeith, 12 May 2020 - 09:30 AM.

[MiniMadRacer]

if removing the pot joints with the tool< make sure you drain the oil first

[MiniMadRacer]

breaking the top taper and releasing the arm allows the hub to pivot on the bottom ball joint and the track rod end basically swing the hub towards the rear of the car

[28hodge]

I have just done this and just undid the top ball joint as suggested and dropped the hub over, then used a drift and hammer on the pot joint and one good clean strike shocked them over the clip no problem

[johnR]

I've done this fairly regularly recently - I just raise the engine a little then lever the rad side driveshaft out of the diff followed by the other (drain oil first) No need to disconnect suspension.

[kkeith]

I've done this fairly regularly recently - I just raise the engine a little then lever the rad side driveshaft out of the diff followed by the other (drain oil first) No need to disconnect suspension.

 

Thanks to everyone that helped. I ended up taking the hub off and changing inner and outer CV joints. Seems every job I do, I find another one is just around the corner!

[whistler]

You can lift the engine out without undoing any suspension. The pot joints are designed to slide back on their splines enough for you to gently lift and seperate both sides.

[kkeith]

You can lift the engine out without undoing any suspension. The pot joints are designed to slide back on their splines enough for you to gently lift and seperate both sides.

Yep, trouble is I found the CV's to have to much movement and needed replacing anyway. Just added to the fun! Cheers 

[nicklouse]

 

You can lift the engine out without undoing any suspension. The pot joints are designed to slide back on their splines enough for you to gently lift and seperate both sides.

Yep, trouble is I found the CV's to have to much movement and needed replacing anyway. Just added to the fun! Cheers 

 

The CVs do not move on their splines as they are located by the C clips. But there internals can move to compensate for the driveshaft length change due to suspension movement. Only the early ones had the big fat sliding splines.

[whistler]

 

 

You can lift the engine out without undoing any suspension. The pot joints are designed to slide back on their splines enough for you to gently lift and seperate both sides.

Yep, trouble is I found the CV's to have to much movement and needed replacing anyway. Just added to the fun! Cheers 

 

The CVs do not move on their splines as they are located by the C clips. But there internals can move to compensate for the driveshaft length change due to suspension movement. Only the early ones had the big fat sliding splines.

 

 

Perhaps I should have said the driveshaft moves back on its splines.

 

[Spider]

I've always left the Pot Joint on the Gearbox and separated the Drive Shaft from it. I know that does mean splitting the Top Ball Joint, but it does leave the Engine / Gearbox as a sealed unit.

 

I have seen engine outs as some have suggested here by separating the Joint from the Gearbox and I can see that's a doodle to get the Engine out, however, I've not done it that way (might try it on my next), but how do you guys find refitting the Engine with this method ? Just thinking about it, it looks like it could be a fiddle to get the engine at just the right height to start them off or is there a bit of leeway here ?

[28hodge]

I found relocating the pot joints simple enough, engine dropped to the correct height to locate a pot joint and then o just shoved the engine across to engage it, once done lift the other pot joint to the correct height and then let the engine drop back and centre itself and it’ll drop into the opposing pot joint.

Only thing I didn’t do was fully tighten the ball joints they were only hand tight, so when I put oil into the engine with the car still up on axle stands the pot joints/shafts had enough drop on them to mean the point joints weren’t fully seated and allowed oil to drip out, one the ball joints were tightened up that stopped.

My only issue is now is it won’t start, despite spark and fuel so guessing timing is out to far

Edited by 28hodge, 30 July 2020 - 10:34 AM.