Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Tracing Down Leaks - Main Gear And Half-Moon Seal Replacement?


  • Please log in to reply
21 replies to this topic

#16 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,845 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 24 April 2021 - 08:09 PM

There's no real precautions that I can think of, just make sure the engine externally is clean - really clean - and same for your work area. If you have recently replaced the clutch, then clearly you have the tools for removing the flywheel, which is probably the biggest challenge of this job. When removing the 1/4" screws from the Sump Rails, be sure to get the 2 that are a little hidden behind the Front Engine plate.

 

When re-assembling, you can get the Engine on to the Gearbox in a much more controlled and square way if you have a lifting aid (Engine Hoist for example) rather than man-handle it. I'm sure you would have, but to be sure it's covered, replace the O Ring on the Oil Feed that's in the Sump Rail of the Gearbox. When you do get the Engine on to the Gearbox, have a good long look at the Half Moon Seal to make sure it is seated as it should be and hasn't pinched up at one end or become dislodged. I'm not sure if you had it in mind, but I'd suggest replacing the Primary Gear Oil Seal, the Mini Spares type;-

http://www.minispare...05.aspx|Back to

 

I've found  to be quite good. The later Injection Seals do work better but they also seem to wear a groove in the Primary Gear. There's a few ways the Transfer Housing can be offered up the the Engine / Gearbox so as to have the Seal seat correctly, I'd suggest (assuming you don't have the tool) winding some tape from the Seal Area on the Primary Gear (only lap on to this by about 2 - 3 mm) over the Splines to the end of them. A light lick of Oil on the tape and the Primary Gear and the Housing should go on easy, then take your tape off checking none is left behind. For this reason, I feel the likes of Electrical Tape is a good choice here.

I think once you do it, you'll see how easy it is.



#17 Crestside

Crestside

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Location: Oslo

Posted 30 April 2021 - 06:35 AM

Any additional suggestions on this?

Have anyone used a soft halfmoon seal mounted in place with success? That looks like my best bet.

I will try to add pictures so that you can assess the size difference situation.

#18 GraemeC

GraemeC

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,300 posts
  • Location: Carnforth

Posted 30 April 2021 - 08:11 AM

I think you'd struggle to compress the soft seal to get it into place.  Or if you did, I'd be concerned as to whether it would then be an effective seal.

Hence why the rigid seal was developed.



#19 Crestside

Crestside

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Location: Oslo

Posted 01 May 2021 - 10:47 AM

My apologies, Spider. Somehow I didn't see your reply until now. The oil seal is already replaced when I did the clutch.

Attaching some pics to illustrate the dilemma between soft vs. hard halfmoon seal. It seems one of the soft seals will be able to squeeze in okay, while the rigid one (Minispares) is a definite fail.

Attached Files



#20 whistler

whistler

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,699 posts
  • Location: Cardiff

Posted 01 May 2021 - 10:55 AM

The hard seal was designed, I believe, to be used as a fix for the soft one failing in that it could be fitted with the engine still in the car. There was a post a year or two ago from a member in Oz mentioning that there is still in existence, somewhere, the Rover service bulletin with regard to the fitting of these hard seals. Neither the soft or hard seals are like the original one which was not made from rubber.



#21 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,845 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 01 May 2021 - 06:42 PM

The hard seal was designed, I believe, to be used as a fix for the soft one failing in that it could be fitted with the engine still in the car. There was a post a year or two ago from a member in Oz mentioning that there is still in existence, somewhere, the Rover service bulletin with regard to the fitting of these hard seals. Neither the soft or hard seals are like the original one which was not made from rubber.

 

This was what I would have replied with.



#22 whistler

whistler

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,699 posts
  • Location: Cardiff

Posted 02 May 2021 - 08:14 AM

 

The hard seal was designed, I believe, to be used as a fix for the soft one failing in that it could be fitted with the engine still in the car. There was a post a year or two ago from a member in Oz mentioning that there is still in existence, somewhere, the Rover service bulletin with regard to the fitting of these hard seals. Neither the soft or hard seals are like the original one which was not made from rubber.

 

This was what I would have replied with.

 

Great minds.........






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users