14 replies to this topic

[Kim1]

Hi. I have a 95 JPM mini purchased last fall.  A new steering rack was installed before purchase but alignment was never completed. Took car for laser alignment to local shop this week (Canada). Not sure he knew what the car was!! I provided alignment specs from Rover Service manual. 
 

Front toe out was adjusted to spec however tech said that while rack was centred before starting work, tie rod ends each required different amount of adjustment resulting in 15 mm of thread exposed on right side and 7 mm on left side to achieve correct toe value.  Both Caster and Camber were checked and within spec. Car tracks straight when releasing the steering wheel. A review of the rack confirms it is new and properly attached to car chassis. 

 

Questions are: 1) is there any issues with the discrepancy between the length of exposed thread? 2) is there a possible safety issue with not having enough thread into the tie rod end on right side?

 

Should I consider the race tie rod ends that mini spares offers with 5 mm of extra length to get more bite onto the rack?

 

Any comments would be appreciated. 
 

Kim

[Kim1]

When I had the laser alignment completed on the car this week I asked them to confirm the rear values even as I understand it, there is no adjustment without aftermarket parts.

While Camber values were within spec I noticed quite a variance from left to right side (1.2 degrees versus 0.6 degrees). Toe was .43 degrees “Out” on right and .48 degrees “Out” on left. Other than abnormal tire wear is this okay or should I be doing something to adjust these values?
 

Thanks

[GraemeC]

Toe out on the rear makes for a very nervous and unstable car where the rear wants to overtake the front.

Are you sure it’s “out” as factory is slight toe in?

Edited by GraemeC, 24 May 2020 - 07:10 PM.

[Spider]

I've merged your topics as they are all related.

[Kim1]

GraemeC,  it is difficult to read the printout but I think it is rear toe out. Having said that it does no feel unstable at all while driving. I am new to forum and haven't figured out how to post photos yet

 

kim

[Kim1]

Upon further review both on the alignment printout and visually the rear tire relationship with the fender I think it is in fact toe “IN”. 

[Chris1275gt]

GraemeC,  it is difficult to read the printout but I think it is rear toe out. Having said that it does no feel unstable at all while driving. I am new to forum and haven't figured out how to post photos yet
 
kim

Use the More Reply Options box next to the post box and use the choose file then attach file.

[cal844]

GraemeC, it is difficult to read the printout but I think it is rear toe out. Having said that it does no feel unstable at all while driving. I am new to forum and haven't figured out how to post photos yet

kim

Use the More Reply Options box next to the post box and use the choose file then attach file.

Or, even better is to upload them to an image hosting site and paste the BBcode into your reply as needed.

[Kim1]

Attached is a copy of the printout that identifies the various current camber and toe values for the rear suspension. I think I did this right. 

 

   F986CCF7-C37D-4005-A64F-3C2625DE931F.jpeg   28.58K   34 downloads

[GraemeC]

That's got toe in both front and rear - the front should be toe out.  Correcting this will help your thread engagement on the track rod ends.

 

When you say the steering rack was centred - was this in relation to where it sits in the car or that it was in the centre of its travel left to right?

From the straight ahead position count the number of turns of the steering wheel to give full lock both left and right - are they the same? Should be just over one and a quarter turns each way (2.7 turns total).

[Kim1]

The rack was centred by using an allen key in the fluid fill hole then I centred the steering wheel on the splines.  When checking the steering travel just now it appears to be about the same in both directions (+/- 1 1/2 turns each way).  Possibly being out by the equivalent of one notch on the steering wheel spline. 
 

If the toe has been set incorrectly (negative) and Is adjusted to positive, that will definitely provide  more thread on the one side to be inserted further within the rod end but I fear that could exacerbate the thread problem on the opposite side where the tie rod end has little threat left exposed (7.0mm).  
 

Is there any ability to adjust the rack bolted to the body? If so can you direct me to how it is done. 

 

Thanks

 

Kim

[GraemeC]

If the toe has been set incorrectly (negative) and Is adjusted to positive, that will definitely provide  more thread on the one side to be inserted further within the rod end but I fear that could exacerbate the thread problem on the opposite side where the tie rod end has little threat left exposed (7.0mm).  

 

No - you'd make the adjustments equally on both sides, so both sides would need the TRE screwing further onto the track rod.

 

Check the steering rack comes through the toe bard with the shaft in the middle of the hole, if not then slacken the U-bolts and shift it across. (You could use this method to offset it slightly in the right direction, as long as the shaft doesn't foul the toeboard).

 

One notch on the steering wheel could make more difference than you think.  I prefer to set the straight ahead position by counting the turns and accurately finding the centre, then moving the wheel on the splines to make sure it is straight - using the allen key or drill bit in the hole doesn't always give the best results (and some racks don't have the facility).

[Kim1]

Thanks for your input. I appreciate your guidance. 
 

As for the rear alignment, based on the printout values  I think there is too much toe and while camber is with tolerances quite a difference side to side. Since as I understand it there are no adjustments, would that suggest that either swing arms could be worn or could new bushes in the subframe mounts address this. 
 

Is this something I need to deal with ASAP? Do you think there are any safety issues with holding off doing this work on the rear until next winter?

 

Kim

[pakgorgor]

Hi. I have a 95 JPM mini purchased last fall.  A new steering rack was installed before purchase but alignment was never completed. Took car for laser alignment to local shop this week (Canada). Not sure he knew what the car was!! I provided alignment specs from Rover Service manual. 
 

Front toe out was adjusted to spec however tech said that while rack was centred before starting work, tie rod ends each required different amount of adjustment resulting in 15 mm of thread exposed on right side and 7 mm on left side to achieve correct toe value.  Both Caster and Camber were checked and within spec. Car tracks straight when releasing the steering wheel. A review of the rack confirms it is new and properly attached to car chassis. 

 

Questions are: 1) is there any issues with the discrepancy between the length of exposed thread? 2) is there a possible safety issue with not having enough thread into the tie rod end on right side?

 

Should I consider the race tie rod ends that mini spares offers with 5 mm of extra length to get more bite onto the rack?

 

Any comments would be appreciated. 
 

Kim

 

Are you in the GTA? Which shop did you take it to?

[Kim1]

I am located west of Collingwood and hence used a local shop to complete the work. I understand that Rudy at Mr Grean in Brampton could do the work but for me that is a 2 hour drive away. May end up there anyway if I can’t find someone local that understands these old cars

 

kim