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Spi Charging Problem


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#1 Wriggler

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Posted 03 June 2020 - 09:00 AM

Hello

 

We've got a 95 Monte Carlo SPI Japanese import. 

 

Battery kept draining and as it was getting on, changed it.  Problem still persisted so changed alternator, but problem remains.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks



#2 humph

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Posted 03 June 2020 - 12:23 PM

Hmm, there will be many more knowledgeable people on here but here are my thoughts;

 

You've replaced the battery and alternator but have you used a voltmeter to check that the system is charging the battery as the engine runs?

 

 

 

If it is, and the battery is dying when the car is sitting around, then you've got a parasitic drain somewhere. I've had this and it was the interior light, but I've also had it with radios. 

 



#3 MatthewsDad

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Posted 03 June 2020 - 02:42 PM

The immobiliser / alarm can cause a drain on my battery (95 SPI) after only 2-3 weeks). I keep meaning to fit a battery isolator. But as humph suggests best to first establish whether the alternator is generating juice for the battery.

#4 Pops_Guild

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Posted 03 June 2020 - 03:26 PM

no alarm or immobilisers on Japanese mini's as far as I am aware. Will be an earth / bad connection somewhere, worth spending a bit of time taking each bit of loom and checking it.



#5 kommander

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Posted 04 June 2020 - 01:21 AM

I had a similar problem with my Jap spec SPi. Battery wasn't charging properly. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the earth strap without any change. I decided to add another earth strap, but this time from the alternator tensioning bolt to the body of the car. Charging problem disappeared.

#6 Wriggler

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Posted 04 June 2020 - 01:43 PM

Thanks for the top tips!  I will investigate at the weekend and report back.  

 

Telling my daughter to pretend it's a hybrid and plug it in every night is wearing thin! :-)



#7 xrocketengineer

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Posted 05 June 2020 - 01:41 PM

If the battery is draining over several days, it could be caused by the the main relay in the relay module remaining active after shutting off the engine. And easy way to find out is, if after the engine has cooled down (ie overnight), the relay module feels warm to the touch. Then something inside is active and draining the battery. In my case the ECU needed repair/replacement.     

 

http://www.theminifo...re#entry1413267



#8 Wriggler

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:04 PM

Okay, I've now checked it with the multimeter and it's not charging - when running it's falling to just under 12volts

 

Weirdly, I put the multimeter on the output terminals of the alternator when it was running and it showed 50v!  

 

So now I'm properly confused.



#9 xrocketengineer

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:44 PM

It seems like the fusible link(s) at the starter solenoid terminal coming from the alternator might have blown. Remove the grille. Check the voltage again at the alternator terminals and at the solenoid terminal with the engine running. The voltage should be the same.   

If not, disconnect the battery and remove the wires from the solenoid terminal. There should be two brown/purple wires attached to a fusible link with a round terminal. Check for melting or corrosion. Perform a continuity test from that disconnected terminal to the other end of the wire on the alternator. It should read almost 0 Ohms.   

 

This is what I found on mine while troubleshooting the driving lights: 

 

http://www.theminifo...driving-lights/



#10 Wriggler

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 10:21 AM

It seems like the fusible link(s) at the starter solenoid terminal coming from the alternator might have blown. Remove the grille. Check the voltage again at the alternator terminals and at the solenoid terminal with the engine running. The voltage should be the same.   

If not, disconnect the battery and remove the wires from the solenoid terminal. There should be two brown/purple wires attached to a fusible link with a round terminal. Check for melting or corrosion. Perform a continuity test from that disconnected terminal to the other end of the wire on the alternator. It should read almost 0 Ohms.   

 

This is what I found on mine while troubleshooting the driving lights: 

 

http://www.theminifo...driving-lights/

That was exactly what it was.  Popped the grill off and took the connections off the solenoid terminal, the piece of cable going back to the two brown wires was completely green and corroded away to nothing came away in my fingers. Rolled back the protective sheathing and crimped in a new length of cable to a new terminal - and all is well. 

 

Thank you so much for your help!



#11 xrocketengineer

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 04:51 PM

Glad to know that you could fix the problem. However, if you used a regular piece of wire it will not provide any protection as the fusible link does. Shop, around and you might find  a suitable replacement. 



#12 Ado1379

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 07:34 PM

Glad to know that you could fix the problem. However, if you used a regular piece of wire it will not provide any protection as the fusible link does. Shop, around and you might find a suitable replacement.


I second this. As electronics has been my life for the past 13 or so years one thing I have learned is this... with fuses they very rarely blow on their own( except maybe due to age) and if there was a fuse in place from manufacture, it was there to protect something (usually expensive).

So if a fuse blows, replace it!

#13 Wriggler

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Posted 24 June 2020 - 09:39 PM

Okay, thanks. When you mentioned ‘fusible links’ I wasn’t too sure what you meant, other than guessing it would act as a fuse and melt out if loaded with too much current. But when I looked at it, it just looked like some corroded thru copper wire.

The gauge of cable I used should be good for the 70amps replacement alternator I fitted - not that I’d expect it’ll be pushing that kind of current out with what’s on the car, which is totally standard.

I’ll ask about and see if I can get something that’ll serve.

Thanks again.

#14 Wriggler

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Posted 24 June 2020 - 09:39 PM

Okay, thanks. When you mentioned ‘fusible links’ I wasn’t too sure what you meant, other than guessing it would act as a fuse and melt out if loaded with too much current. But when I looked at it, it just looked like some corroded thru copper wire.

The gauge of cable I used should be good for the 70amps replacement alternator I fitted - not that I’d expect it’ll be pushing that kind of current out with what’s on the car, which is totally standard.

I’ll ask about and see if I can get something that’ll serve.

Thanks again.

#15 Wriggler

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Posted 25 June 2020 - 06:17 PM

Glad to know that you could fix the problem. However, if you used a regular piece of wire it will not provide any protection as the fusible link does. Shop, around and you might find a suitable replacement.


Hi again

Can I ask what gauge of fusible link wire you used? Or what amps rating?

Thanks

David




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