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Bmw K100/k1100


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#1 bpirie1000

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Posted 15 June 2020 - 11:22 AM

O.k. folks.
Need to pick a few brains.. Any help appreciated.

I am about to embark on a build and before I commit to the engine block modifications can anyone assist me with many questions.

1. The bike rocker has no filler neck for oil. How do you overcome this? (Drill rocker, separate filler neck?)
2. What ignition system works best (megajolt/EDIS 4?)
3. What are the best plugs to use? (ANYONE..)
4. I trust the head gasket is a modified a.series- modified for the oil channels?
5.some favour the external water pump but does the standard a.series pump have the necessary balls to cope and provide enough cooling?
6.I get the just of removing the lobes from the original crank asthere are no push rods, also about having it put back into the block to run the oil pump and to seal the original cam holes.. has anyone had any issues with this? Or has anyone left the lobes on?
7. What pressure is there in the fuel return line? Have you just used the standard bike fuel rail with the conversion?
8. Has everyone used standard radiator or gone 4 core?
9. Do you use the standard bike throttle body choke -is the standard mini cable long enough?
10. What accelerator cable did you use?
11. Has anyone made a manifold for this with any success? Turbo may be something I look at later. Just want to get it running for now.
12. Piston. Yes I know the benefits of replacing for new piston but running the 16v I will need to have the piston machined to accommodate for clearances.. anyone any guidance on this?
13. 4 pin differential - is this really required. I know it makes sence but can the 2 pin take it..

So many questions....

Thanks for reading- if I have not sent you to sleep already.
Feel free to p.m. me as I will be in the garage swearing at the head and block....

Cheers.

#2 Richie83

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Posted 15 June 2020 - 05:46 PM

O.k. folks.
Need to pick a few brains.. Any help appreciated.

I am about to embark on a build and before I commit to the engine block modifications can anyone assist me with many questions.

1. The bike rocker has no filler neck for oil. How do you overcome this? (Drill rocker, separate filler neck?)
2. What ignition system works best (megajolt/EDIS 4?)
3. What are the best plugs to use? (ANYONE..)
4. I trust the head gasket is a modified a.series- modified for the oil channels?
5.some favour the external water pump but does the standard a.series pump have the necessary balls to cope and provide enough cooling?
6.I get the just of removing the lobes from the original crank asthere are no push rods, also about having it put back into the block to run the oil pump and to seal the original cam holes.. has anyone had any issues with this? Or has anyone left the lobes on?
7. What pressure is there in the fuel return line? Have you just used the standard bike fuel rail with the conversion?
8. Has everyone used standard radiator or gone 4 core?
9. Do you use the standard bike throttle body choke -is the standard mini cable long enough?
10. What accelerator cable did you use?
11. Has anyone made a manifold for this with any success? Turbo may be something I look at later. Just want to get it running for now.
12. Piston. Yes I know the benefits of replacing for new piston but running the 16v I will need to have the piston machined to accommodate for clearances.. anyone any guidance on this?
13. 4 pin differential - is this really required. I know it makes sence but can the 2 pin take it..

So many questions....

Thanks for reading- if I have not sent you to sleep already.
Feel free to p.m. me as I will be in the garage swearing at the head and block....

Cheers.


I’ll try and fill in some of the blanks based on my SC build. I did not build this myself

1. Some people tap the rocker cover. You can also get a filler that goes in place of the breather. I have neither and just remove the breather stub and use a funnel
2. Mine uses SC’s ignition coil and ECU
3. Will go and look - I need to order a new set for service anyway
4. Buy a dedicated reinforced head gasket. SC, force racing etc
5. Mine uses standard water pump. Works fine For road use
6. Mine has an SC ‘Jack’ type which powers the pump
7.No idea. Mine just returns to fuel tank under gravity
8. 4 core fletcher Alloy radiator for me With an additional electric pump that kicks in just before boiling point. Only usually needs this when stationary
9. No clue
10. SCs cable
11. Can’t help. Used SCs
12. Unsure on machining. Mine was bored to 1380 and forged pistons.
13. Would recommend cross pin. The torque is ridiculous and if you’re building from scratch I’d say it’s worth doing.

Sorry if that’s not much help. Would recommend the SC book if you’re building yourself.

#3 72hump

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 01:51 PM

Hello Mr Pirie, as Richie has said, its a good idea if your going to embark on a K1100 engine build, you can also look at the builds on the saloon section of this forum if you haven't done so. Richie has answered most your questions, but I will add a little.

 

1. You can also get an alloy filler cap TIG welded on to the cam cover, but this affects the bonnet you put on.

 

2. Same as Richie, the SC system.

 

3. Bosch XR7LDC as the ones I have on my engine.

 

4. I have heard of a few guys running the BK450 gasket, but the head and block have to be dry decked, and extra holes drilled.

 

5. Standard water pump for me as well.

 

6. As above.

 

7. I have a Jenvey fuel rail with 6 JIC fittings on it, with a 3.5 bar pressure regulator on the return line. You will also have to fit a MPI fuel pump to get to required pressure, if your going to go the injection route.

 

8. Super 2 core, and 6 blade metal fan which i used on my SPI engine.

 

9. If you are going injection, as with most of the guys who have done this conversion, you do not require a choke cable.

 

10. I have used the standard mini one, as I have modified the throttle body to suit it. Take a look at my build 96 Equinox k1100

 

11. I think Fusion Fabrications make them for turbo applications, the SC is very good.

 

12. Pistons will need to be pocketed for 8/16v engines. Again SC will do this for you, or Force Racing.

 

13. As Richie, a wee stronger than the 2 pin.

 

Hope this helps a wee bit, not to put you of, but either the Force Racing or the Specialist Components kits are straight bolt on jobs, they still require a fair bit of work, but if look through my project, Richie's, or Mini silver bullets one on the other section of engine builds, you can iron out a lot of the pit falls we have encountered.

 

Paul.


Edited by 72hump, 16 June 2020 - 02:04 PM.


#4 bpirie1000

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 09:07 PM

Brilliant chaps thanks. This is what I was looking for.. I will read the build threads again and take notes...

If it is not causing you to scratch your head then..... it ain't worth doing....

#5 Streetscreamer

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 11:28 PM

So interesting how everybody makes fine solutions for all small things to such a project like a K head modification.

Mine is done with a SC kit incl engine management.

I will answer you some points where I can help you for more inspiration

1) I used a filler neck & cap of a Subaru. This is mounted to the lower side of the condensation pot of the gear case. Inside I pushed the "steel wool" some up and welded in a barrier to avoid the wool falling down again.

3) Bosch is good, NGK equivalent always better (take Iridium type)

6) I took off the lobes myself by a lathe. Important to realize, when you keep the lobes on, the cam needs to be in proper sync with the crankshaft. Otherwise there is possibility for lobes hitting the piston skirts. Another advantage of jackshaft with removed lobes: You can prime you oil system without cranking the engine. Simply release the distribution belt from the jack shaft pulley, then drive the outside with a battery powered drill. I kept the oil feed line detached from the entry at the rear of the head. In a few seconds the pump filled all hoses, filter, oil cooler, journals etc and was flowing out of the hose on top. 

7) return line is pressureless. If using fuel lines in interior, please consider "Aeroquip"style braided hoses. Good stuff for low money at Torques. For fuel be aware that even the highest quality nitrile type rubber hoses will sweat fuel particles. Better to consider the PTFE (Teflon) type with stainless overbraid. This is also required for FIA racing cars. I used the standard fuel rail of the BMW K engine, but  brazed with silver the two tubes with a AN6 bung around. This will give a decent connection (and looks great)

8) I use a custom made front cooler (since 1991) . With BMW K head this is a challenge where to place an alternator. Finally I milled an aluminium bracket in front of the top side of the crank shaft pulley on which I mounted the smallest Denso alternator

9) Original throttle valves of BMW K has "choke". There is a lever system on the side of the throttle position sensor. It actually just enables you to pull up the idling. I installed another outer cable of Venhill (braided goodies for Harley) with a 1,5mm dia flexible inner cable, brazed to the original pull button of the dashbord. The electrical switch will be connected to a control light at the instrument panel (Alfetta) Standard cable for sure too short.

10) Custom made with Venhill bits. Direct to firewall a 90 deg bent pipe, then braided hose till another 90 deg bent pipe connected to the throttle bodies. Original position of the pipe connection to the throttlebodies has been moved from top rail to the lower, so the cable can approach from below, cleaner looks.

 

If you need pics, let me know. Pity this forum will not accept upload of pics directly, only by URL link. Such thing I did with Photobucket, but those idiots hijacked all pics and you first have to pay etc etc.






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