15 replies to this topic

[sonscar]

I have painted cars in the past but have always left them as they finish from the gun.After another display of lack of talent respraying my RacingGreen in clear over base I find myself in the position of some astoundingly good areas and some very much less so.
With little else on offer I am going to attempt machine polishing for the first time.I have no tools for this and am not looking for a mirror finish,a new car type finish would be great.
I do not want rubbish but neither do I want pro gear as this may be a one off.Looking forward to sensible suggestions please.Steve..

[RTmini]

Wet sand with 2000-2500 wet paper then polish with g4 will give you the look.

[RustyAutoCityE]

When choosing a Machine Polisher, I would suggest going down the Dual Action polisher route. Although slower then a Mop, they are a lot more forgiving as they don't generate anywhere near as much heat, so burn through is less likely.

 

For cutting compounds, I have found Meguair's products good value and they are available in different abrasive grits. Always start with the lightest compound you have, and get more aggressive if you need to.

[sonscar]

I was undecided about rotary vs Da polishers and as a novice the Da was slightly more attractive.Thanks Steve..

[bluedragon]

Yes, the dual-action units are the way to go for the novice and occasional detailer. If you do this for a living or are doing a whole car (even a Mini-sized one) then the conventional rotary polisher will save much time, with a much greater risk of paint damage.

 

You'll want to get at least two and probably three different polishes for the work - the heavy polish for the sanding scratches, a finer polish, and then a final polish for the mirror-like finish, removing swirl marks (especially on very dark colors.) On lighter colors or some polish systems the 2nd polish level can give a satisfactory look, but you won't really know until the polish evaporates and you look at it under full sunlight or strong artificial lights when the nasty swirl marks will show if they're present.

 

Finally, get a different pad for each product and don't mix them up (i.e. use the heavy polish pad for the swirl remover step) because no matter how clean you think you've gotten the pads, some of the coarser polish will remain. I recommend foam pads, which are the only type really suitable for dual-action polishers. Wool pads need the power of a rotary to build up the heat and cutting action to work properly, and of course with attendant risks. They are for heavy duty cutting jobs, like if your paint is chalky and rough from being neglected for 20 years.

 

Invest in good quality pads too - the cheapest pads will quickly delaminate from their backing, often during the initial session of usage. Good pads will last for many sessions, and the foam will usually start break down before the backing delaminates.

 

 

Dave

Edited by bluedragon, 02 July 2020 - 12:36 AM.

[blacktulip]

I have a kestrel das6 which I will be using when the mini is complete for the road. I have heard these are good so will have to see.

[Cooperman]

I think I'm old fashioned. I usually flat with 1200 then 2000 W & D, then hand polish with G3 and finish with a hand-glaze. It seems to work OK.

[Midas Mk1]

wet flat 2.5,3k pass with g3 with compound head, g10 polishing head, works a treat.

g3 is aggressive AF, so be careful.

[bluedragon]

It's easier for most people to get good results from dual-action machine polishing vs. hand.

 

This is because first, there's much less physical effort. Second, finer, less aggressive polishes can be used since the machine is doing most of the repetitive labor. This means less chance for swirl marks and scratches, especially on dark finishes.

 

Someone who can get a swirl-free finish by hand on a black car is skilled indeed. Most though have to resort to waxes and glazes to fill in the swirl marks. This certainly will look good, but one good washing with dish soap (which dissolves grease and wax) and all will be laid bare.

 

By contrast, a well done machine polish job with the right materials will look magnificent without any wax or glaze. Putting those on may actually diminish the gloss, though it's important to protect the finish.

 

 

 

Dave

[sonscar]

Just ordered a DAS6pro from Slimsdetailing.Will advise of progress when it arrives.To all those who lovingly detail their cars I have the greatest respect.In 45 years of car ownership I have polished one only once.It did not drive any better and took me at least an hour to do.With this enforced home time I am going to try again.I am not aiming for showroom,just less bad.Thanks for your input.Steve..

[RustyAutoCityE]

I have a DAS6Pro, works well and does the job like it should.

 

First time I used it was on a pair of scrap Nova doors to get a feel for it. For a novice first attempt it brought the paint up to a nice gloss shine and didn't take too long.

 

I would love to give the Mini a once over, but the pads don't like sharp rust bubbles/holes.

[sonikk4]

G3 is good for removing sanding scratches so a pass with that after using 2500 / 3000 wet and dry, then i use a 3M yellow waffle mop with Scholl Concepts S17+ and i let the results speak for themselves.

 

 

[PoolGuy]

Just a word of warning for anyone thinking of using G3, G3 isn't one particular product, it's a range, some of which will do more harm than good if used incorrectly. It would be useful if those who are suggesting G3 would give details of the actual g3 product. https://www.farecla....duct_groups/g3/

[Midas Mk1]

Just a word of warning for anyone thinking of using G3, G3 isn't one particular product, it's a range, some of which will do more harm than good if used incorrectly. It would be useful if those who are suggesting G3 would give details of the actual g3 product. https://www.farecla....duct_groups/g3/

 

Just takes some common sense.

 

https://www.ebay.co....wUAAOSwb8Va0NEW

[steeley]

Looking good sonikk4 - teal blue?


Can’t beat a nice blue mini

Tahiti blue

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