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Mm 1987 Mini Advantage @ Mill Road Garage Iow


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#76 Ben_O

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Posted 22 September 2020 - 08:01 PM

Didn't realise there are two layers of steel for the roof

Do you mean the frame piece that's visable in the second photo?



#77 floormanager

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Posted 22 September 2020 - 08:55 PM

The very same Ben

srX23u9.jpg

 



#78 Ben_O

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Posted 22 September 2020 - 09:59 PM

That is part of the internal structure and is called a cantrail.

The back panel has the roof gutter formed to the top of it and this joins to the roof skin.

The top of the window frame joins to the cantrail.

 

Cheers

Ben



#79 Ben_O

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 02:34 PM

Back to work on the rear end this afternoon.

 

Before I fit the new back panel and valance, I want to prep and Epoxy prime inside the boot, rear panel and valance.

These areas are tricky to reach with it all buttoned up and the Epoxy will give great protection against wet and condensation that often builds up in these areas.

 

First is to scotch up the new bits and give everything else a through flat down and clean.

 

TDV3cHz.jpg

 

And then the Epoxy which I have tinted to match the original primer

 

Jkz8uH0.jpg

 

PPdnaGh.jpg

 

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And not forgetting the valance closers

 

KKGkdro.jpg

 

Once that's dry, I can carry on welding

 

Cheers

Ben



#80 Ben_O

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 05:10 PM

With the primer dry, it was time to pop the back panel on.

Always start by lining the top corners up to the roof where it is still rigid and then tease everything into line working down or you risk pulling the back panel out of shape

 

dltkAnD.jpg

 

And always try the boot lid on before welding.

This is a complete panel so you would think its safe as the appeture is fixed but no, it can drag down causing the hinge rail to twist.

 

KFQNlel.jpg

 

This one is fine

 

JLQQGyl.jpg

 

I started by adding a few spot welds to secure the floor and back panel together on the bumper seam

 

kPHFu8E.jpg

 

And then added the rear valance

 

vxeLYFZ.jpg

 

And then welded the 3 skins together across the bumper seam

 

CFk9z7f.jpg

 

Then the valance ends to the closer

 

F6VXvmS.jpg

 

And thats it for today.

Tomorrow, I shall finish the welding on the back panel and then get it on the spit for floor removal!

 

Cheers

Ben



#81 Vinay-RS

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 05:29 PM

Ben, will it be keeping the mk1 taillights? 



#82 Ben_O

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 05:57 PM

Ben, will it be keeping the mk1 taillights? 

Hi vinay.

 

Yes, it's going to have the mk1 taillights and I will be converting the bootlid to early spec with the hinges number plate.

 

Cheers

Ben



#83 Ben_O

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Posted 24 September 2020 - 04:43 PM

Next bit is to spot weld up the rear panel to side panel seams both sides

 

bnAJWOY.jpg

 

lDbQAy3.jpg

 

Then the lock striker 

 

PovwEcf.jpg

 

Then around the window frame

 

cFhBzyP.jpg

 

And lastly the gutter

 

eIwin6I.jpg

 

And thats the back complete

 

2fK2Fir.jpg

 

Time to go on the spit

 

c4RCbna.jpg

 

Nice and crusty underneath

 

Gdl3MyO.jpg

 

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Some goodies fell out whilst rotating the shell

 

61n5VAI.jpg

 

Next job is to remove the complete floor so I made up a basic frame out of 1" box

 

rFLEnNM.jpg

 

Belts n braces and all that.

 

First stage to removing the floor is to locate the spot welds that secure the bottom of the companion bins to the floor

 

ZO3wOy3.jpg

 

And then Ill need to drill those but time has run out today.

 

Cheers

Ben



#84 floormanager

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Posted 24 September 2020 - 07:35 PM

That mini is getting the full Mill Road treatment.  Must be very satisfying to be able to see all that rot and know you have the capabilities to remove it all.  I would freak out if I saw that!



#85 Bdshim

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Posted 24 September 2020 - 09:46 PM

Great work, thanks for taking the time to share ?

#86 Ben_O

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Posted 25 September 2020 - 04:30 PM

On with the floor removal this afternoon.

 

I went ahead and cut the bulk of the floor out

 

PsJqufI.jpg

 

Ad3iL8W.jpg

 

And that leaves the inner and outer sills to remove

 

mhM8CRo.jpg

 

Not much to do here. Just drill the spot welds that hold the companion bin bottoms to the floor, drill the spot welds holding the front tab of the bin to the inner sill, drill the spot welds that secure the back of the companion bin to the heelboard and then cut inbound of the seams to the step with the inner and outer sills

 

iRnx3Qv.jpg

 

And then after doing the other side, we have this

 

u7h9zcm.jpg

 

be5agvm.jpg

 

Just the de-snagging to do now which just involves cleaning up edges and removing snaggy remains starting with the companion bins

 

THpgtcT.jpg

 

HEk5h88.jpg

 

And the front of the floor where it overlays the toeboard

 

50mfkiz.jpg

 

Some of the spot welds are hard to find as there is a lot of corrosion here but I drilled what I could find and then started to split the layers to locate the others

 

Ive managed half so far

 

GirPPHZ.jpg

 

Quite a lot of corrosion between the layers but i expect most of it will clean up ok. I may have to make new ends for the toe board however.

 

More next week

 

Cheers

Ben



#87 floormanager

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Posted 25 September 2020 - 06:58 PM

Well that's got rid of the rusty bits! :ohno:



#88 gaspen

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 02:34 AM

Hello Ben

What is the setting on spot welder when you weld three layers together?

#89 Ben_O

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 08:11 AM

Hello Ben

What is the setting on spot welder when you weld three layers together?

Are you asking about the settings for my particular spot welder?

only the settings vary so wildly between machines which is why we must do a peel test before committing to spot welding the whole lot.

 

Cheers

Ben



#90 gaspen

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 09:20 AM

 

Hello Ben

What is the setting on spot welder when you weld three layers together?

Are you asking about the settings for my particular spot welder?

only the settings vary so wildly between machines which is why we must do a peel test before committing to spot welding the whole lot.

 

Cheers

Ben

 

 

For example there is a particular setting ( timing and force ) for 1+1 mm material.

 

What do you change to 1+1+1 mm ?

 

Hope my question is clear now :)






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